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Unread 09-14-2013, 09:46 PM   #151
Climbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke95
Well that is nice, honestly I'd rather have the shaft fail its $40 not $120

I <3 rockrash
Except when it fails, especially a stock shaft, chances are it fails at the ears, taking the knuckle off with it.

If its an aftermarket shaft, you have now moved the weak link to the pinion.

And then you have to deal with pulling the shaft, replacing it, and putting the knuckle back on.

When my hub failed, I was able to drive about 15 miles back to a buddy's shop where he happened to have a spare. With the way it broke, I could've driven on it indefinitely.


And the hubs are about 80$ a piece, chromo shafts are around 120$each

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Unread 09-14-2013, 09:58 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Climbit

Except when it fails, especially a stock shaft, chances are it fails at the ears, taking the knuckle off with it.

If its an aftermarket shaft, you have now moved the weak link to the pinion.

And then you have to deal with pulling the shaft, replacing it, and putting the knuckle back on.

When my hub failed, I was able to drive about 15 miles back to a buddy's shop where he happened to have a spare. With the way it broke, I could've driven on it indefinitely.

And the hubs are about 80$ a piece, chromo shafts are around 120$each
When mine failed I just popped the unit bearing off then put in the new shaft/bearing but I guess that I got lucky and it broke with a bang so I stopped and fixed it.

I <3 rockrash
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Unread 09-24-2013, 12:02 AM   #153
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sorted my overheating issues out- flush block, new thermostat, new fan clutch, flush OEM rad and replace. all good. I did break the aux fan somehow and now it vibrates like a mofo. gotta replace that.


took her out wheeling on saturday. had a blast. having dual ARBs was great. the ability to turn them off to take turns is awesome, and then lock them up for the climbs makes it so much smoother.



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Unread 09-24-2013, 07:39 AM   #154
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Haha good 'ol Joe talking about hood paint...
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Unread 09-24-2013, 02:45 PM   #155
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Haha good 'ol Joe talking about hood paint...
Haha. Right. It was a good time. We ran sidewinder, I still laugh when I see that big waterfall.
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Unread 09-24-2013, 02:56 PM   #156
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Quote:
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Haha. Right. It was a good time. We ran sidewinder, I still laugh when I see that big waterfall.
Yea that waterfall almost got my number. That was my first real rockcrawling trip. I was hooked from there.

Im glad you guys all got out and enjoyed some wheeling. I saw Jeff in your FB pics as well. Tell everyone i say Hi.
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Unread 09-24-2013, 03:53 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '92 vegas YJ
Yea that waterfall almost got my number. That was my first real rockcrawling trip. I was hooked from there. Im glad you guys all got out and enjoyed some wheeling. I saw Jeff in your FB pics as well. Tell everyone i say Hi.
Same here. Things have come a long way since then. Now we run that trail backwards.

Don't worry, I told everyone about your line while we were standing there spotting
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Unread 09-30-2013, 04:33 AM   #158
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So how much did those currie coils run ya? I'm really looking into the pac racing springs or the curries...but hard to decide honestly.

I'm trying to stay around 3", the pac racing 2" coils can be had in 200 or 250lbs/in. I'd go for 200 & could level my jeep with a small spacer, or get the 4" spring in 200lbs and cut them a bit. 2" springs run 18" free height and coil bind at 5.70". And they are claiming 12.40" of travel. Coil is a progressive type rate.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 08:55 AM   #159
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I got the currie coils from savvy offroad with their JF discount.

I'm fairly certain they were in the 2-300$ range all told.
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Unread 10-25-2013, 09:37 PM   #160
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decided I was tired of my trackbar bracket loosening up, so I welded it. I also moved it forward about an inch and built a brace across the frame.
the uniframe was plated underneath the bracket with 3/16" and 10ga on the passenger side where the brace hits the uniframe. I had found a couple small cracks that were welded up in the process as well.








the brace will get cut off and have removeable joints welded in so that if I need to drop the oil pan I can, but that's pretty low on the priority level.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 12:02 AM   #161
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got the 30 out, put the artec truss on it.




I cut down the currie upper housing kit that I was running and welded it on the truss.




also installed a set of JKS ACOS to act as spacers and level out the jeep. I have them adjusted all the way up, so really they are just 1" spacers, to keep the front level with the rear after the shackle relocation boxes. but now I can level the jeep side-side and keep ride-height consistent once I add a cage or any other weight.




I did a lot of measuring with tires and checking clearances. I need to add 1" of bumpstop in the front for the short term. Long term I need to cut out the front inner fenders considerably to keep the tires out of them.
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Unread 01-05-2014, 09:12 PM   #162
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so... a lot has happened.

took the Jeep to the desert... wheeled the crap out of it... and broke it. took out the front locker on a climb.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSdvp...ature=youtu.be

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kozb1...ature=youtu.be



also managed to lean it into that rock and damage the door and C pillar. not too bad though.
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Unread 01-05-2014, 09:41 PM   #163
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since then, I brought the jeep home, pulled the front dif and rebuilt the ARB.

and then I decided to hack it up a bit.


crap! we cut past the spot welds



start framing in tube.






we changed a bit from what you see in the pictures, the inner tube is more outboard than that, and the braces will change a bit.

the most difficult part of this is dealing with the fuel filler.

relocated the fuel door recess up... need to lengthen the hoses... damn that **** is expensive!


the rest of the unibody will be plated and the shock (12" fox) will run off the top of the Ubolt plate

now I need another 20' stick of tube and a sheet of 16ga to finish it.
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Unread 01-12-2014, 12:06 AM   #164
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Ermahgerd.
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Unread 01-12-2014, 12:09 AM   #165
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Ermahgerd.
I know right!
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