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Chester's TJ build

81K views 924 replies 41 participants last post by  yellow_snocone 
#1 · (Edited)
So I've been holding off on doing a build thread since I haven't done anything special to my jeep compared to other builds but now that I heading in that direction here we go.

Future plans:
outboard rear shocks
4 Link rear
3 link front
flat fenders (Rokmen)
modify front bumper
WB 100 ish
Fuel cell or stretch tank (Genright)

When I got him in 2009


After some bolt on mods 31's/winch/bumper


I did some wheeling and learned alot



I installed a front aussie locker


and lift kit RC 3.25


SS SYE


Rear locker


Wheeled it some more for two more years



After a few deployments and some reading on other people's builds I decided to get serious with the upgrades
Ford 8.8


35x12.5x15 goodyear MTR K


Wheeled some more




Modified the rear fenders


Wheeled some more :laugh:




 
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#793 ·
Even with them being shorter the bracket would be to big. It's just how the brackets are.

I would set the length so there is enough space to get your fasteners in. Then I would add surface area to your truss so that you have as much weld area as possible. Be sure you get your pinion angle correct so you get the orientation of your axle LCA correct. Looks good!
I don't think my cut idea wasn't a good one so I'm planning on extended the bridge back and adding some supports under it.
 
#792 ·
I would set the length so there is enough space to get your fasteners in. Then I would add surface area to your truss so that you have as much weld area as possible. Be sure you get your pinion angle correct so you get the orientation of your axle LCA correct. Looks good!
 
#799 ·
Oh yeah dude that's just fine. It's gonna be hard for me not to redo my rear links when I finish up the axle. I figure if I already have all the joints bought by then, that's the major cost out of the way so why not. Looking forward to it. Looking good though man. Just triple check every possible source of interference before you burn.
 
#801 ·
Ok guys I made some adjustments to the uppers some where down the line I did something wrong and couldnt put the other control arm back in so cut off the brackets and redid the uppers together to make sure things were good.



I checked all my clearances and it seems the upper hit the tube right at the bumpstops, so a hard hit is going to do some damage:nono:. The lowers have some more room left until they hit the frame.





 
#804 ·
Looks like you could easily shave 1/8" off the top of the link mounts…. and then just let it self clearance. If they hit well before the jounce you need to add bumpstop. But if you can take the jounce out and only have about a 1/2" interference or so I'd let it self clearance if it wants to. Getting to FULL compression in the rear might happen in some whoops, but it's not going to constantly be hitting during daily driving or rock crawling.
 
#806 ·
Looks like you could easily shave 1/8" off the top of the link mounts…. and then just let it self clearance. If they hit well before the jounce you need to add bumpstop. But if you can take the jounce out and only have about a 1/2" interference or so I'd let it self clearance if it wants to. Getting to FULL compression in the rear might happen in some whoops, but it's not going to constantly be hitting during daily driving or rock crawling.
Nate looks like his upper links will hit the floor first right behind the frame mounts. With the longer arms its almost impossible for that not to happen when you use enough link seperation
 
#809 ·
I started working on the tank placement. I had to cut some of the tub support to get the fuel pump to clear. I'm going to have to make some brackets for the front mounts since they dont reach the frame. All and all I like where it is and I have some more room from the axle. I may continue work on the rear mount member that tie the tank to the bumper tonight.




Fill tube opening just barely clears

Nice and level
 
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