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Chester's TJ build

81K views 924 replies 41 participants last post by  yellow_snocone 
#1 · (Edited)
So I've been holding off on doing a build thread since I haven't done anything special to my jeep compared to other builds but now that I heading in that direction here we go.

Future plans:
outboard rear shocks
4 Link rear
3 link front
flat fenders (Rokmen)
modify front bumper
WB 100 ish
Fuel cell or stretch tank (Genright)

When I got him in 2009


After some bolt on mods 31's/winch/bumper


I did some wheeling and learned alot



I installed a front aussie locker


and lift kit RC 3.25


SS SYE


Rear locker


Wheeled it some more for two more years



After a few deployments and some reading on other people's builds I decided to get serious with the upgrades
Ford 8.8


35x12.5x15 goodyear MTR K


Wheeled some more




Modified the rear fenders


Wheeled some more :laugh:




 
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#613 ·
So some how I got this bug in my ear that after the stretch I want to build a doubler 231/300 setup since I'll have the extra room. I like the idea of being able to select how low the jeep will crawl without paying so much for an Atlas or Stak transfercase. Only issue I've seen is trying to find a kit still on the market.
 
#615 ·
Looks like he makes the front doubler complete setup only. I've been looking at the a kit that only comes with the plate and output shaft. It requires you the cut your 231 in half and weld the new plate to it making it the doubler and just attach the 300 to it and your good.
kit

cut up

complete 231

231/300


This should run me roughly $700 depending on the cost of the 300. I may sell my 231 and use a used 231 to walk away with less paid into this mod
 
#616 ·
ok I have some bad news for those waiting for me to chop chop on the jeep to really get the stretch going....Nate cough..cough. Since the end of year vacation is coming as well as the continued bathroom project I may wait on ordering my corners until next year. Then again I may order them later this month I cant make my mind up. Other then that I've been doing lots of wheeling since winter is a big time of year for us.
 
#617 ·
I see this thread at the top... I click it... I'm waiting to see a garage full of grinding dust, a jeep that was perfectly fine now destroyed and a dude having the time of his life and I get NOTHING.

:D Take your time dude... when it's the right time you'll get it going. I remember not planning on doing it for a couple more months then I got a little bored and chop chop happened.
 
#629 ·
Oh yeah i forgot he's going to do that also. That's really going to be awesome.

Thats reminds me I might want to outboard before I chop chop the frame or should I do it after the choping
I would take some measurements before, while it's together since essentially you are just moving things back so the geometry is the same, but actually do the work after you cut the frame off since it will be MUCH easier to weld and cut out the notch like that.
 
#631 ·
Yup... at ride height. Just mock up your lower shock mount on the axle. The semi-hard part is determining the height of the tower. You need to think long and hard about your shock and if you are happy with their compressed and extended length. Don't get greedy and think you can have to much in either direction because you'll either be into your tub, or unseating your spring. If you're using a 10' travel shock... I'd go 5 up and 5 down. This makes the cut critical if you're using a tapered shock tower because obviously it's height determines the size of the notch in the frame.
 
#635 ·
Before you finish weld anything cycle the suspension, full, bump, full droop and full flex both ways at ride height with the rear springs out.
So the towers are angled right for needed shock clearance through the entire suspension travel. Remember Nate has long arms makes the axle move less front to back than short arms.
 
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