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Unread 12-31-2012, 06:00 PM   #16
Cavasar
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fort Worth/College Station, Texas
Posts: 2,258
Sold my OEM running boards for $100 to some guy on craigslist that was restoring his beat down TJ back to factory condition. I also decided I'd rather use the RTV sealer when I close up my diff instead of the cheap Felpro gasket.

Well we got the Aussie in the carrier and the carrier in the diff. But we ran into a problem when trying to re-attach the steering arm. The bolt that has a grease fitting on the bottom and a nut w/ cotter pin on top spins with the nut when I tighten it and I'm not sure how to keep the bolt from spinning.

Make sure to make a mark so you know how to re-align it.
004 (2)
Aussie in minus the cross pin and roll pin.
005 (2)
Carrier + Aussie in the diff
009

This is the bolt I was talking about, I just can't get it to stop spinning when I tighten the nut.
008(2)

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Unread 12-31-2012, 08:03 PM   #17
dirtdude35
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Put a jack under the tie rod end and jack it up till you almost pick up the jeep and then hit the nut with a impact.
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Unread 01-01-2013, 02:10 PM   #18
Cavasar
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Location: Fort Worth/College Station, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtdude35
Put a jack under the tie rod end and jack it up till you almost pick up the jeep and then hit the nut with a impact.
So far no luck with this idea =/

Edit: After playing with it more I just stripped the nut. I have two nuts so one still works. But I'm thinking something is wrong with the bolt on the tierod. I need to get the Jeep back together before the 11th since I will be moving. Should I just order a new tierod?
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Unread 01-01-2013, 03:23 PM   #19
dirtdude35
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yeah you might just want to go get a new tie rod end and be done with it
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Unread 01-01-2013, 03:32 PM   #20
Cavasar
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I would like the Currie tierod but I don't know if I want to pay $271 for it right now, or if it will get here in time. I may just find a used one at a junk yard
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Unread 01-01-2013, 03:39 PM   #21
yellow_snocone
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Go to napa and get a replacement tierod end no need to replace the whole arm.
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Unread 01-01-2013, 03:46 PM   #22
Cavasar
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I just called NAPA and they told me to come in tomorrow morning to order it and it'd be there by 1:30. $73
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Unread 01-01-2013, 04:32 PM   #23
dirtdude35
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that seems really high to me. I looked and that is for the whole tie rod. All you need is the one end. Like this one http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...rd=tie+rod+end
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Unread 01-01-2013, 04:50 PM   #24
Cavasar
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Oh the NAPA guy didnt tell me that. Yea $43 sounds better, too bad they close in 10mins.
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Unread 01-02-2013, 06:34 PM   #25
Cavasar
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Got it from Oriley's for $21.64. Unfortunately I didn't have time to work on it today since I'm helping my sister look for a car.

001 (10)
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Unread 01-04-2013, 02:58 PM   #26
Cavasar
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Been a little busy this week but I was finally able to finish the locker today. Then moved on to changing the pads and rotors. Finished up without a hitch, the test drive revealed the clicking of the lunchbox Aussie. I'm not a big fan of that sound, but it runs so I guess it's all good. Sitting at Firestone now for a lifetime frontend alignment. Then goin over to my girlfriend's place to watch the Cotton Bowl. BTHO OU!
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Unread 01-04-2013, 05:06 PM   #27
Cavasar
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Do these numbers look right?
003 (5)


And picture just because.
002 (6)
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Unread 01-05-2013, 09:47 AM   #28
Cavasar
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One of the click pins on my JKS quicker discos broke because they're rubbing the inside of the rims. One side was digging into the tire and the other is shaving into the rim, could adjusting the steering stops help this?
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Unread 01-05-2013, 01:21 PM   #29
WhiteWrangler95
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Looks great!
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Unread 01-05-2013, 01:54 PM   #30
Cavasar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteWrangler95
Looks great!
Thanks man.
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