Cavasar's TJ - Page 8 - JeepForum.com

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post #106 of 1319 Old 05-15-2013, 08:44 PM
Cuder
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It would make your prep alot easier if you put the drivers seat back in, pull all the floor plugs and take it to the car wash first. Also, I think you read in my thread about the smell of the Monstaliner. You should wait till all this rain is gone so you can let it sit outside for a few days. If you're at your parents house they aren't gonna like you very much if you stink the house up.

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post #107 of 1319 Old 05-15-2013, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
Cavasar
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I wiped down the inside with Clorox wipes and sanded the tub. Then I wiped the tub again to get the dust out and primed the bare spots. Still think it's necessary to go to the wash? I'm not too worried about the garage, no body uses it except me. You couldn't fit a car in it until I got back for the summer and cleaned it up.

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post #108 of 1319 Old 05-16-2013, 05:38 AM
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Oh, I thought you hadn't started yet, nevermind then. What type of primer did you use?

If you can't park it outside then you need to try to seal the door going into the house with tape. The coating fumes will be in the whole house.
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post #109 of 1319 Old 05-16-2013, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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I just hadn't posted prep'd pictures yet. I used some rustoleum primer for metal to coat the bare metal. Thanks for the heads up about taping the garage doors.

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post #110 of 1319 Old 05-26-2013, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Well I MEK'd the primer off a few days ago and then CS the bare metal spots. I was(am) still waiting for the roller kit to arrive from Monstaliner but I got tired of not driving the Jeep so I threw the seats back in and went to Bridgeport with the Lone Star Jeep Club today. They had 60+ Jeeps register for this event and had a great turn out. I felt welcomed by all of the club members, this being my first time meeting any of them. On one trail my bungee strapped tailgate broke open, so one guy lent me his ratchet strap which kept my tailgate down all day. We didn't have any flops, but a few close calls. One guy had to get towed home due to a damaged axle.
A few more pictures to come later as others upload.



JF member Cuder, also a LSJC member


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post #111 of 1319 Old 05-27-2013, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Few more I found




XJ almost flopped sliding off into this ditch

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post #112 of 1319 Old 05-28-2013, 11:17 AM
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That's a good picture of me, I'm only half ugly. I've been stuck in that mud hole before. /\
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post #113 of 1319 Old 05-28-2013, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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We ended up backing out of that trail after me, most of the Jeeps behind me wouldn't have been able to make it.


Ordered PSC hood louvre, oil pump, and other stuff to change the RMS. Just cleaned her up from Sunday, now need to vacuum the dirt from the inside.

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post #114 of 1319 Old 05-28-2013, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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So my original reason behind getting a new driveshaft/SYE was I figured I was going to need it after I did my lift. But I don't have any vibe problems, is there any point in getting a new shaft/SYE for the time being? I could use new CAs cause the bushing on a few of them are just about shot. Just wondering if my money could be better spent elsewhere for now. Opinions?

Pinion angle look alirght?
005 (8)

004 (9)

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post #115 of 1319 Old 06-03-2013, 09:19 PM
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If you are not getting bad vibs and eating up u-joints then don't worry about the SYE. All Jeeps are different how they react to a lift, your DS and pinion slopes look good. You have a auto so that probably helps alot. But, I can tell you that you will be able to tell the difference after doing a SYE/CV driveshaft.
I just zip tied the brake line to the upper CA's when I installed the Savvy CA's.
I just now got around to washing the Bridgeport mud off yesterday. Took about $10 worth of quarters.
Also, cute GF!!!
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post #116 of 1319 Old 06-03-2013, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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She would've come to Bridgeport with me but i didn't have the back seat brackets in and my bud called the open seat (she wasn't too upset)I was thinking about going ahead and putting the rear uppers on since they've been sitting in my closet for 7 months, I just hope it doesn't upset my pinion angle as it sits now.
I washed the outside/underneath of mine the next day, I no longer want mud. There was still a lot of dirt inside and Jeep got rained on as it sat in the parking lot at work, so now I'll have to wash the inside again before Monsta. I'll finally be able to Monsta on Thursday/Friday since I got both days off and finally have everything I ordered from them. Also going to change the RMS/oil pump while the paint dries.
Bestop seat covers should be here soon along with my PSC hood louver this week!

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post #117 of 1319 Old 06-03-2013, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavasar View Post
Is the brake cable being bolted to the rear upper CA a normal thing? How would I go about relocating it when I switch to the Savvy's? Do I just let it hang, or zip tie it somewhere?
Absolutely normal...from the factory in fact. Most people do, subsequently, zip-tie them in place onto their new arms, vice just letting them hang freely. Just make sure of 2 things when you secure them:
  • You have freedom to fully droop without pulling them away from the bracket (or ripping the bracket off)
  • Control the 'slack' such that the passenger side cable doesn't come into contact with your exhaust

Don't ask me how I know about the second recommendation...:

Good luck with the install this weekend

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post #118 of 1319 Old 06-03-2013, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h1driver View Post
Absolutely normal...from the factory in fact. Most people do, subsequently, zip-tie them in place onto their new arms, vice just letting them hang freely. Just make sure of 2 things when you secure them:
  • You have freedom to fully droop without pulling them away from the bracket (or ripping the bracket off)
  • Control the 'slack' such that the passenger side cable doesn't come into contact with your exhaust

Don't ask me how I know about the second recommendation...:

Good luck with the install this weekend
Haha ok thanks, good to know.

Also I've been thinking that since Metalcloaks have a built in winch plate that that might be coming in the not so distant future. I'll have to do some research as far as what is needed to run a winch, and hope my batter has enough CCA/life left to crank a winch.

Edit: Just went and looked at my battery and got better news than I was expecting. 800 CCA! My dad replaced it not too long ago and I half expected him to have got the bare minimum for it.

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post #119 of 1319 Old 06-03-2013, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavasar View Post
Also I've been thinking that since Metalcloaks have a built in winch plate that that might be coming in the not so distant future. I'll have to do some research as far as what is needed to run a winch, and hope my batter has enough CCA/life left to crank a winch.
Nothing 'extra' is needed. All winches (electric) direct you to install by connecting directly to the battery. Just keep that in mind when wheeling by yourself with nobody to jump you if you run your battery all the way down. Obviously you'll need some sort of fairlead...

Keep your eyes on Amazon, as you will find really good deals pretty regularly. Rusty762 bought a Superwinch Talon 9.5 with syn line and a thimble, delivered for cheap. Syn line costs a little more, but is definitely the way to go. It weighs next to nothing, and doesn't store the kind of energy that wire rope does...little energy to unload in the event of breakage.

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post #120 of 1319 Old 06-03-2013, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
Cavasar
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I'll definitely be going for syn. I've read up that much on them, so all I need is a winch, syn rope, and fairlead?
Edit: Thanks for the PM H1.
On another note I plan on getting the MCE flexible fenders, but I really like the look of the Metalcloaks. The only way I'd go MetalC though is if I could sell my front fenders w/ flares for ~$300. Not sure how much they go for, none posted up locally on Craigslist.

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