Got a whole bunch done today and took a bunch of pictures ... and a video.
Here's what went down:
- Finished installing RallyLights.com relayed wiring harness
- Installed Truck-Lite's new Phase 7 (p/n 27270C) Bi-LED headlights
- Performed the "blinker mod"
- Started on the grill mod
Just a snap of the Daystar Hood Wrangler link ... try to contain your enthusiasm. It really does keep the hood from buffeting in the wind as even the 2012's do it. Getting them latched is a bit more tricky since they're so tight but it's not anything crazy. Worth it.
The auxiliary light mounts are great (even though Quadratec shipped them with rusty hardware). You can see the small strips of electrical tape to keep the light buckets from rubbing on the grill.
I used the 1" square zip-tie mounts, 38 total (top, bottom, and three in the middle) for the grill mod. Bought expanded aluminum used to top off gutters and cut them into seven 12" x 3.75" rectangles. Tin shears work great. Two coats of primer, two heavy coats of gloss black enamel. Should hold up. Ran out of mounts so I'll have to get more and finish Sunday. Used high temperature, quick drying, two-part epoxy on the mounts so they stay put. More pictures to come of the finished product.
The blinker mod's simple enough ... follow the multiple guides and videos on the various forums (Google "JK blinker mod"). Cut the black wire coming out of the side indicator and tap it into the white/gray tracer for the driver side, and white/pink tracer for the passenger side. I completely snipped both wires and used a quality crimp-on butt connector and shrink wrap to seal it off. Then sealed everything back up with the factory corrugated wrap. Works great! I wondered why it didn't come this way from the factory like the TJs did: headlights off = blinks with front indicator; lights on = blinks alternately with the front indicator. They also illuminate now when locking/unlocking the doors with the fob.
And now to the Truck-Lites. A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! Crisp cutoff, though they need to be aimed lower (like Hellas) if just plopping them into the stock position and not touching the aiming. I'm shooting for 4" lower than level from ten feet. The low beams definitely have the "X" hotspots in the middle of each, but they aren't noticeable unless you're driving up to a wall or another car, and even then it's only from about 20 feet up. I really don't know what the big deal is ... there are worse artifacts and hotspots with the stock H13 headlights. The lens is convex but much more flat than the stock fishbowls. I added two layers of electrical tape on the three alignment tabs on the backside of each headlamp bucket for a snug fit. Works great. Solidly built units. The H4 pigtail permanently attached to the rear is plenty long for easy installation and removal: no more wrestling with the short H13 leads from the factory. Coupled with the RallyLights.com wiring harness, everything works great with no flickering. I've read that not everyone notices the flickering, but I had the harness anyway when the Cibies were the plan. Used it anyway, plus it has my third driving light relay incorporated in it.
Starting here ...
Follows factory wiring as best under trim plastic ...
Same for the driver side (the coiled wires are the trigger/signal leads for the switch panel):
Out with the old ...
In with the new!
Top with H4 pigtail:
Low beam only:
Low beam w/factory fog lights:
Showing the lateral pattern, low beam only:
Showing the low beam LED:
High beam LED with circuit board, which is completely sealed within the headlamp bucket and NOT exposed to the elements ... you can't even see it unless you're crouched looking up into the headlamp.
Video showing the "X" hotspots (yup, I said "donk"):