Soooo I went wheeling a couple weeks ago. Ran Millers Jeep Trail Saturday (fun rock trail) then played in Hungry Valley SVRA on Sunday (whoops, sand washes, fast stuff.) The Jeep got a little banged up. Since my Prothanes are chewed up on the top, I have a little too much uptravel, just enough to smash the steering stabilizer somehow. Also, I twisted a lower control arm mount on my front axle. Other than that though it did good.
Here's the prothane.. Gotta trim it and I'll be replacing the metal plate I have as an upper bumpstop with my old currie bumpstop. Should take care of that problem.
And here's the SS. The body got smashed and busted a seal so it's leaking.
Aaaand the LCA mount.
I'm not going to bother fixing the mount. I'm just going to get a HP30 and build it up then swap that it.
Today Kevin helped me pull a HP30 with 4.10s from the junkyard. First step is to clean it and strip it down to bare metal, then the fun begins. I'm thinking LCA skids, gusset the UCA mounts and C's, UCA Johnny Joint kit, some kind of truss, regear to 4.88s, then swap over my Black Magic brakes and Savvy steering, with the tie rod flipped.
What's a good truss? Would it just be better to get a good truss with the UCA mounts already on it? Something like TnT's or UCF's?
i personally say don't truss it. it bolts right in how it is now cause i'm assuming you got it from a junk yard. i would just buy a good diff cover for it and throw it in there and wheel it and when something breaks, fix it with stronger components. i don't feel like its worth spending 500 bucks on a truss for a dana 30
no doors, no top, no problems
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No real need to truss it. Then you have to watch how much she travels up. The truss that is much higher will get in to the oil pan if you ever come down hard on both wheels at the same time. If you do truss it just keep it close to the tube and thick material. That will be the best bet.