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Unread 01-14-2014, 08:47 PM   #976
G Beasley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
My first thought was exactly that, just build a bulkhead for the front, but when lowranger came across these two tubs for a steal, I couldn't resist. My fabricating skilz are sketchy at best, so the more structure I had the better off I felt. I know that probably doesn't make a lot of sense. Since you mentioned it, my buddy found a YJ tail gate for $50 and a CJ tailgate also for $50 on CL somewhat locally. We'll see if they pan out. I can't wait to get back to it and cut up that other tub! Any ideas how I should go about seaming the floors together?
I am suggesting a panel instead of one of the tailgates like I did on the front of my trailer . It was $25 at the local machine shop to have it broken and makes for a clean weatherproof front .

Floor advice , where do I start ! For me a push J pattern worked best for not burning holes in the floor with the voltage set on #2 and a wire speed of 20 . Another thing I did was stagger the floor cut away from the vertical tub seams to try and make it a little stronger . I also cut the floors so that they both landed on a factory cross-member . Keep a wet rag nearby or a chunk of copper to pull the heat out as you stitch it together . And lastly dont get impatient stitching it or your bodyman will be angry with you (Hendrix)

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Unread 01-14-2014, 09:04 PM   #977
bobthetj03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
I am suggesting a panel instead of one of the tailgates like I did on the front of my trailer . It was $25 at the local machine shop to have it broken and makes for a clean weatherproof front .

Floor advice , where do I start ! For me a push J pattern worked best for not burning holes in the floor with the voltage set on #2 and a wire speed of 20 . Another thing I did was stagger the floor cut away from the vertical tub seams to try and make it a little stronger . I also cut the floors so that they both landed on a factory cross-member . Keep a wet rag nearby or a chunk of copper to pull the heat out as you stitch it together . And lastly dont get impatient stitching it or your bodyman will be angry with you (Hendrix)

Thanks for the advise G. Yeah, I'm my bodyman and painter, so I will be my own worst enemy!
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Unread 01-14-2014, 09:10 PM   #978
G Beasley
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Thanks for the advise G. Yeah, I'm my bodyman and painter, so I will be my own worst enemy!
Mine was good after the 1st pass , but I got in a hurry on the second run and warped it pretty good . Luckily Hendrix made it all better !
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Unread 01-14-2014, 09:21 PM   #979
bobthetj03
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Mine was good after the 1st pass , but I got in a hurry on the second run and warped it pretty good . Luckily Hendrix made it all better !
I'm not nearly as worried about welding the floor as I am about the sides, but I assume that's what your talking about. I'll be using my shop's Miller 200, so I'll be dialing it down and spreading out the heat! These tubs are rough anyway, so they are gonna need a lot of TLC.
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Unread 01-17-2014, 07:37 PM   #980
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Hey guys, I sprung a fuel leak on the fuel out line coming out of the tank. It's the plastic line that comes out of the tank and goes to the disconnect fitting to the steel line. Looks like the tank skid wore a hole in the plastic line. Can I replace that line with parts store fuel injection hose and FI clamps, or do I have to buy the factory line from the stealership?
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Unread 01-20-2014, 08:50 AM   #981
lowranger
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Let me know if you need help Jimbob.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 07:12 PM   #982
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Let me know if you need help Jimbob.
Thanks for the help today Lowranger! Guess all you guys that have dropped your tanks didn't have any advice to give?
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Unread 01-20-2014, 07:38 PM   #983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03
Thanks for the help today Lowranger! Guess all you guys that have dropped your tanks didn't have any advice to give?
How did you fix it, for future reference? I wasn't sure a splice could handle the pressure, so I kept mouth shut. Haha.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 07:48 PM   #984
bobthetj03
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How did you fix it, for future reference? I wasn't sure a splice could handle the pressure, so I kept mouth shut. Haha.
I replaced the line and tossed the factory disconnect hose with fuel injection hose and FI clamps. I assume that's what you used when replacing your tank with the new cell? FYI, for those that can't find the disconnect clips, I have the part number.
p1060322.jpg

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Unread 01-20-2014, 08:20 PM   #985
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Nope I didn't have to mess with my line at all, just tweaked it a bit. Good job fixin it up.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 01:42 PM   #986
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You are welcome Jimbob !
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Unread 01-23-2014, 04:30 PM   #987
bobthetj03
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Acquired another piece of the trailer puzzle!
p1060324.jpg

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Unread 01-24-2014, 08:44 PM   #988
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Thought about closing up the front opening, but think I'll search for another gate to keep my options open.
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Unread 01-24-2014, 08:49 PM   #989
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Originally Posted by bobthetj03
Thought about closing up the front opening, but think I'll search for another gate to keep my options open.
You won't ever need to open the front. It will be awkward to open even if you don't already have gear piled on the tongue.
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Unread 01-24-2014, 09:00 PM   #990
bobthetj03
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You won't ever need to open the front. It will be awkward to open even if you don't already have gear piled on the tongue.
This has been the argument with my local forum, and I'm still undecided. My fab skilz are weak, so finding another gate sounds like the wimps way out. I do plan a basket in the front of the trailer, so the gate in front would negate it's usefulness. However, if I chose to leave the front open I could open both gates which could open up room for a sleeping arrangement.
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