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Unread 09-02-2010, 09:30 AM   #16
Turfzilla
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2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: OWB, KY
Posts: 427
Black Betty was under the knife (grinder) again. I recently completed the install of the Rear Corner Armor and new steel flares and some LEDs.

I purchased a set of Smittybilt corners and flares from Summit Racing. I have said it before and will say it again: Check out Summit Racing before you buy stuff like this. They always have the lowest price and by far cheapest shipping. They shipped the corners and flares for $12.95. Shipping was at least $50 anywhere else. Again I am impressed with Smittybilt's product. I was surprised how well the front fender went on and fit. The rears were no different.



Must haves - I did the drivers side alone, Gary helped with the passenger side



New gas door cover from Ruggid Ridge
I did cut and fold the pinch seam in the front of the wheel opening


Finished product: I gained 2.5" between the top of the tire and flare compared to stock.
I am going to replace the silver hardware with black.


Making room for some LEDs. Trick of the week: I hate using oil while drilling expecially on a brand new body part. I put a few ice cubes inside the hole saw.....it stayed cold to the touch the entire time.


I chose the flange mount over the rubber mounted style. Plus these have a black background behind the clear lens. I found these at vehiclelight.com.


It was getting dark when I took this


I did F-up one thing. I mounted the LEDs a tad to low. I forgot about the liscense plate when I was laying out the spot to drill. I will need to trim the plate a little now.

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03 Rubicon, NV 3550, 4" LA, UCF TT, Rear Rock Jock 60, Ultimate 44 w/Artec Truss/gussets and RCV shafts and 37" Irocks
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Unread 09-04-2010, 03:37 PM   #17
oakmckinley
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Looks great so far.
I have to admit though my favorite part of this thread is the
"grabbed an envelope of 100's... and a handgun"
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Unread 09-04-2010, 03:56 PM   #18
apfroggy0408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turfzilla View Post
Black Betty was under the knife (grinder) again. I recently completed the install of the Rear Corner Armor and new steel flares and some LEDs.

I purchased a set of Smittybilt corners and flares from Summit Racing. I have said it before and will say it again: Check out Summit Racing before you buy stuff like this. They always have the lowest price and by far cheapest shipping. They shipped the corners and flares for $12.95. Shipping was at least $50 anywhere else. Again I am impressed with Smittybilt's product. I was surprised how well the front fender went on and fit. The rears were no different.



Must haves - I did the drivers side alone, Gary helped with the passenger side



New gas door cover from Ruggid Ridge
I did cut and fold the pinch seam in the front of the wheel opening


Finished product: I gained 2.5" between the top of the tire and flare compared to stock.
I am going to replace the silver hardware with black.


Making room for some LEDs. Trick of the week: I hate using oil while drilling expecially on a brand new body part. I put a few ice cubes inside the hole saw.....it stayed cold to the touch the entire time.


I chose the flange mount over the rubber mounted style. Plus these have a black background behind the clear lens. I found these at vehiclelight.com.


It was getting dark when I took this


I did F-up one thing. I mounted the LEDs a tad to low. I forgot about the liscense plate when I was laying out the spot to drill. I will need to trim the plate a little now.
Nice work maybe move the license plate to the tire mount?
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Unread 09-30-2010, 08:14 AM   #19
Turfzilla
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: OWB, KY
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That would be the easy option. I did not pay an extra $135 bucks for a matching spare wheel to cover it with a liscense plate. I will trim the plate where needed and bend it around the tub or mount it to the bumper.
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03 Rubicon, NV 3550, 4" LA, UCF TT, Rear Rock Jock 60, Ultimate 44 w/Artec Truss/gussets and RCV shafts and 37" Irocks
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Unread 09-30-2010, 10:11 AM   #20
Turfzilla
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Recently installed the Undercover Fab (UCF) 'original' 2" deep skid. I took a different approach than most. I tried mounting it without a body lift or motor mount lift. I used the Lopro tranny mount. I have the Rough Country long arm, so my factory shovel was already dropped 3/4" which helps with some of the clearance issues with out doing a body lift.

Stock shovel next to the UFC skid. A nice gain of just over 2.5"


Since I have the RC LA kit, I did have to modify the UFC skid. A section on the rear of the skid has to be cut out where the arms mount. After i removed my stock shovel I traced the outline on the floor and used it as a template for trimming out the new skid. Error on the side of not cutting enough off and test fit and trim a little more as needed.




I had to trim off a little on my factory tranny/exhaust mount, in addition to what the directions had me do. It was hitting the center brace on the skid. About a 1/4" was I all I removed.


I also had to trim out the skid where the muffler passed over it. When the flowmaster was installed a few months ago they clocked a bit to clear the long arms. If the flomaster was more level I would have been ok here.


Another issue that everyone runs into with Rubicons- the locker pumps. Most relocate them. That seems like a huge hassle. I made a "L" shaped bracket for the frame side and welded an extension to the skid for the inboard side. At first I was only going to add a tab to mount the inboard side of the pumps, but noticed it left them unprotected. So, I ended up attaching a 2"x8" place for the pumps to set and have protection.

Frame side (scrap from an XJ bumper)


Extension on skid - * zip tie is only for mock-up


Whenever you start moving stuff around - the shifter linkage for the TC gets all bound up. I had a adapter plate from an old body lift that worked perfect. I drilled a few holes and mounted it upside down. Shifter assembly is perfectly level.


Final mock-up before removed for paint


Nevermind the orange tranny PO did that for some reason!


I had to have the tail pipe massaged a little. It was touching the trac bar after it was raised.

MOD complete:
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Unread 10-03-2010, 03:17 PM   #21
sh13lds21
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Location: fortuna
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thats awesome... how long have you had the LA kit on? how does it ride compared to stock?
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Unread 10-04-2010, 04:17 PM   #22
Turfzilla
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It has been on since Jan. The ride is great.
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Unread 04-23-2011, 06:46 AM   #23
Turfzilla
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I have not included any updates in a while.

I added a YJ front bumper. I cut it down (took 5" off the top and 8" off the bottom), filled all the holes, and boxed it on the ends. The material on a YJ stock bumper is about twice as thick as a stock TJ bumper. I did leave the fog lights a little unprotected and I did bust one up eventually. So, I moved them back to a tab that comes off the sway bar mounting hole.

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03 Rubicon, NV 3550, 4" LA, UCF TT, Rear Rock Jock 60, Ultimate 44 w/Artec Truss/gussets and RCV shafts and 37" Irocks
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Unread 04-23-2011, 07:31 AM   #24
Turfzilla
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Superior shafts


Installed them front and rear.


Rusty's fat tie rod - i do have some clearance issues on the lower trac bar mount.


1330 CV Tattons front driveshaft - check him out - he has a ebay store, get his number off there and call Curtis directly. He will blow Tom Woods prices out of the water.




Reason for new front drive shaft


Axle tube seals - on the Superior Chro-mo shafts with spicer joints


Gen-right hood vents. Nice quality product with great instructions.

- check out the "ghosted" Auto-bot. The dust sticks the vinyl differently than the rest of the hood. It is a black on black decal




This saw did the trick
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Unread 04-23-2011, 07:51 AM   #25
bamboosam
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WOOO Black Betty what a beauty awsome job thanks for all the pic's
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Unread 04-23-2011, 10:50 AM   #26
TJjeepguy
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Great looking Rubicon! How do you like the MT/R's I am actually on the fence with the KM2's and MT/R's. How's the ride quality and the wear on them? Thanks!
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-TJ Flat Fenders
-ZJ Tie Rod
-Rear TJ Fender Flares
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Unread 05-21-2011, 05:43 AM   #27
Turfzilla
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I am pleased with the MT/R. I run them at 24 psi on the street, ride is decent. Wear has been fine as well. This is not my DD, so they dont get too many miles on them. Maybe 2000 per year.
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Unread 05-21-2011, 07:25 AM   #28
SophomoreJeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turfzilla View Post
Custom Rear bumper - tire carrier

Went back to the K-Built shop for some fab work. My buddy Kenny has built several of these bumpers. Each one gets a little better IMO. I cannot find all the photos from this build. I will add more as I find them.
We started with 2"x6" x 1/4" tubing for the base. We also welded a rear stiffener to the factory rear crossmember. We used 1/4" plate for this. The swing out was made from 2" square tube, thin wall. A leaf spring eye off a XJ leaf pak was the bearing housing on a 1" spindle. The latch was a 1/2" hitch pin. We put a spring on it inside the tube. I have about $60 worth of materials in the bumper.







Cut in a place for a reciever


Without Carrier






We ended up hiding these bolt heads. We cut them off flush and welded them to make a smooth finish.


Finished Product
That bumper is cool and looks nicer than most of the ones from Quadratec
How much would he charge for one of those babies?
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Unread 05-24-2011, 12:35 PM   #29
Turfzilla
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Location: OWB, KY
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We are not in the bumper making business. Fabbing stuff is more fun than buying and bolting on.
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03 Rubicon, NV 3550, 4" LA, UCF TT, Rear Rock Jock 60, Ultimate 44 w/Artec Truss/gussets and RCV shafts and 37" Irocks
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Unread 05-24-2011, 09:02 PM   #30
ItsaFinRubicon
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Posts: 1,255
looks good man... my buddy just told me about tattons driveshafts
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[SIZE="2"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/itsafinrubicon-build-thread-1012286/"]2004 Jeep Rubicon[/URL] [SIZE="2"][/SIZE] ::[/SIZE] [SIZE="1"]|R.C. 4"|PSC|Smittybilt|35" KM1|QTec|R.C.|[/SIZE]


[QUOTE=Dtowngoalie;9869864]rausch frock rauschhhhhhhhhhhh[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=ajamison;11841284]trails frock trailssssss![/QUOTE]
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