To keep it short and sweet...went from built 2002 4runner, to a built 2011 dodge charger R/T (It was pretty awesome), to a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport
I have dedicated this the "YEAR OF SAVINGS" as I am looking to buy a house next year. So, most of my funds will be put straight to the bank, whatever is left over will be divided between food, fun, and obviously the jeep....the jeep named Billy. So this build will be stricken (mostly) to craigslist, ebay and forum sales. Amazon might come in for those hard to find items...
Red is planned
Green is done
There is a lot of red, but, I did just acquire this, soon to be rad (and budget friendly) beast! It is also listed in somewhat of an order, I guess
Teraflex 2.5" coil lift with shocks (This and tires will be the only brand new purchases as you can never really be sure about a used suspension kit).
Kawell 2 pack 48W 60 degree flood lights soon to be installed on rear bumper and tied into reverse lights, and a manual switch.
Clinometer Found it a yard sale for 3 bucks.
Wheels Currently stockers from a Jeep Altitude.
Tires Currently stockers from a Jeep Altitude.
Cibie headlights with 80/100W bulbs much cheaper than truck-lite and seems to have better light projection and accurate lines.
Barricade Rubi Rails simple protection. And cleans up those pinch welds.
Rock Krawler FLCA better,stronger,flexible.
Synergy Chromoly tie rod
Synergy Drag Link
Rugged Ridge XHD front stubby winch bumper
Rear Bumper with tire mount with built in hi lift points.
Winch make and model.....no idea.
High lift jack, and hood mount As I live in a town house, my height is limited due to the garage, so hood mount is optimal.
Rear storage This I plan to make myself, Buddy has full garage of tools, saws, drills and everything needed, this will take time to plan how I want it layer out. I already removed the rear seat cause who needs that.
Underbody protection not sure if this going to be possible to get used stuff, but who knows.
Front driving lights Four 51w LED 7" round lights. Modified for better light projection.
Rubicon axles EVENTUALLY, this will happen, hopefully with a stretch kit in the back. 4 link and 3 link would be nice too.
lockers, front and rear again, this might be tough for me to buy used, hoping the rubicon axles come first.
On board air
Sound system Polk speakers, all six. and added tweeters to the sound bar. Definitely a huge improvement.
The list will most likely get longer, as comes with owning a jeep.
Also, any tips on cost effective ways to improve the jeep are appreciated, along with tips on gear that's on sale or if you are selling anything. Again I live in the central Houston area, but drive to, almost Katy, for work everyday.
I bought four 51 watt LED, (17 3w led's per light) 30degree. Initial impression fell short of expectation. So I looked into what I could do to modify these into more of a spot beam.
Ok, so, the optics...I had some time to learn up on these things, and it should be noted that there are far too many different kinds of optics/LED combinations that exist in this world.
With that said, my new friend Bill (I think) at LEDSupply.com helped with my dilemma. Ended up going with the 100048 Carclo Lens, it is a 7 degree FWHM (Full Width at Half Maximum) IE: 7 degrees from far left to far right edge of the light beam, half way from its maximum "throw" (how far the strongest point of light actually goes in the direction you are pointing the light.) I only bought 17 to start with as I did not know if this was going to work.
To clear up any confusion. These are Optics. Original optic on the left (weak and puny), new and much larger optic on the right (new hotness)
Now because these are larger, they do not fit in the carriage that the originals came in, (the carriage is the black plate like thing in the above picture). Fortunately, thanks to Bill, the new optics fit directly onto/over the LED itself. effectively holding it in place. AWESOME! But there was still the height issue as seen below. The new optics left the cover plate about 1/8" from its sealing/watertight/secure location. So, fortunately I had some "D" shape 1/4" weather stripping left over from when my soft top was leaking at the top front of the doors, soooo I figure why not.
SUCCESS!! The weather stripping actually worked better than I thought. because it was 1/4", and the gap was about 1/8" it allowed me to "squeeze" the cover plate into position. BONUS: THE GLASS IN THE COVER PLATE ACTUALLY PRESSES ONTO THE OPTICS NOT ONLY KEEPING THEM IN PLACE, BUT ACTUALLY ALIGNING THEM ALL TO FACE THE SAME DIRECTION....WIN-WIN. (Original faceplate on the left, new set up on the right.)
I took the "new hotness" light out to the field to do a bit of comparison. wired it up with some test wires set up with alligator clamps and....HOLY ****! it was indeed 7 degrees and these optics turned this wide angle light into a pencil-ish beam of blinding darkness elimination! shined it around for fun and got yelled at by the apartment across the street. I call that success. I went home and immediately bought 51 more Carclo optics. amazingly BIll was still at his store and boxed them up right then and there.
I made a custom switch panel in place of the small cubby between center AC vents...white cardboard is for mock up, black steel plate will be the finished product. I wanted a 5 switch design for two reasons. to limit my collection of gadgets and keep it "clean"
After roughing up the surfaces I put some gorilla glue epoxy on the modified cubby box and the metal plate, after it was curved to contour the curve on teh cubby, and I must say that works superb.
I found this cool fuse block to allow one power input and 6 outputs. If a fuse were to blow there is a little red LED on the block that will light up to indicate which fuse is blown. Only one set of lights (2) are set up right now so only one fuse however supply wires are run for the remaining switches, havent done the return lines yet as I do not know where they will be going.....just waiting for accessories (eventually the top two will be for lockers, hence the switch protectors, would hate for the goofball girlfriend go switch happy while not in the ideal situation)
Here is the back of the switch panel, clean I think, the ground wire is the only one that is able to be daisy chained together. But overall I like it.
Done. and each switch has a red LED on the end that lights up when in the ON position. (eventually the top two will be for lockers, hence the switch protectors) pretty good look if I say so myself.
I KNOW THE BOTTOM CENTER SWITCH IS NOT EXACTLY CENTER. I MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE SNEEZED WHILE TRYING TO DRILL THE HOLE...
Bought this top for two reasons; Looks, and the old one was leaking water.
There was one problem: As I had removed the foam wrapping around the roll bars it didnt quite fit as tightly as it was designed to. So much so that at the top of the rear window it began to sag, enough to disturb my view using the rear view mirror. SO....
3" PVC which I cut in half and then in half again, and secured with two hose clamps each...one on each side of the cage.
Next was the cross member: 3/4" steel pipe with PVC fittings on the ends, shaped to contour the 3" PVC, but also sit on the outer/top of the cage, roughing up the surfaces and some epoxy secured it in place more than adequately.
and all the way across.
Overall I am very pleased. Eliminated the sag and gives the top a better shape. Have since painted everything black, including cage. is very hidden in the corner of the top, and because the top doesn't come completely off, it will never be seen. There is another jeep here that has the same top, with the foam still on, and is still showing the sag. I will snap a pic as soon as I can.
Did some research, read reviews and finally came to the conclusion that Cibie E-code headlamps were the way to go. Brighter bulbs will only go so far, literally.
Long story short, provides far better light left to right and straight ahead, top edge is more crisp, and overall better quality. Paired with Hella 80/100W bulbs and a high output wiring harness, these should be the best lights i've ever used. Possibly even eliminate the need for my 4 7" LED's....only time will tell....
I have since discovered some dimming/flickering as I accelerate and maintain speed. upon asking around on this, and other, forums I inspected and cleaned the ground points. will check it out tonight. I was also advised that the relay's may be faulty. I have ordered new, better quality ones as recommended and will install then upon arrival.
Does anyone have advise or any tips on installing the Poison Spider Hood Louver? Would a dremmel be adequate to cut the hood? I know some have used a sheet metal shear that connects to the end of a handheld drill...
It arrived yesterday and I would like to install this coming weekend.
I just used a grinder. It took a couple hours. A Dremel would work I think but would take longer. It was hard to avoid the cross member because it all felt the same but I barely went in to it. The longest part is the clean up with painting and smoothing out what you just cut.
Headlights arrived a few days ago.Has anyone ever tried to diode the JWSpeaker lights to keep the LB projector on with the HB projector? any thoughts of what that would do?
I will say I am impressed, but still tickled by the cibies.
I just couldn't get any relays to work with the cibies and the high power harness from the battery, so...
I may try to wire the JWSpeaker antiflicker box in line with a Frankensteined harness and the cibie lights. might get interesting. might get shocked, only time will tell But I will post comparison pics of all 4 set ups. either way I will have one or the other after market setups for sale in a few days...
2: cibies w/out harness (power from stock wiring and not from battery)
3: cibies with custom harness and JWSpeaker anti-flicker box
(cibies have 80/100W Hella bulbs)
wired as shown here...with diodes to keep LB on with HB...
Had some time yesterday to quickly wire in some aux flood lights I had laying around. for now they are just tied into the reverse lights, I would like to add a switch so I may use them whenever I want and also automatically come on while in reverse.
placed them on the frame. about a 1/4" of clearance to the back door. and bright. each is 48w. ran the wires through the wire loom on the stock light harness, and then through the frame rail to the second light. hides wires nicely and out of the way.
light placement, and night shots. these suckers are shockingly bright.
Here is the good stuff. Finally had time to frankenstein the crappy high voltage wiring harness with diodes and relays.....Cibie harness is now wired with diodes to keep the low beams on with the high beams, which are incredible and utilized SPST relays from Autozone. I used the JWSpeaker anti flicker box before the relays, its just plug and play with the H13 plug from the jeep, and then the H4 plug to the harness. (see diagram above)
I did notice the JWSpeakers have better light on the right side, where a sidewalk would be however I am not convinced until I install the horizontal adjustment screws and aim the cibies correctly. currently they shine a bit to the left.
THINGS TO NOTE:
There is also that dark spot in photo 2. the very center of the beam just below that tree. I bet adjustment will fix this too.
The JWSpeaker photos have a darker tree line because the light is actually brighter, the camera focuses to reduce the exposure and less light comes in (makes the photo deceiving) So the JWSpeaker lights are brighter, but have reduced coverage compared to the Cibies.
Lastly the tree line is approx 100 yards away from the front of the jeep.
Cibie: nice and wide, definitely lights up the ground closer to the jeep. has a very distinct edge on the left, can really see it on the right (this may be do to poor alignment)
JWSpeaker: very symmetrical, sharp lines both left and right. its a whiter light which appears brighter when next to another car on the street. there is a vague hot spot in the very center (if only the rest of the light was that bright....maybe in the Evo 3's...?
Cibie: Incredible, see photo 4 . that is all. (NOTE: harness was wired to keep low beams on with the high beams). It is lacking on the right, but again thats probably due to poor alignment.
JWSpeaker: very tight shine, retains the low beam pattern minus the hot spot in the middle (its as though the hot spot just moves up)