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Unread 03-03-2013, 06:15 PM   #61
aw12345
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So did your new put put Jeep exceed your expectations?
Looks like you need to air down a bit more.
Those big ole bias belted tires like life around 6 psi

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Unread 03-04-2013, 02:45 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
So did your new put put Jeep exceed your expectations?
Looks like you need to air down a bit more.
Those big ole bias belted tires like life around 6 psi
I crawled over some pretty nasty lines that I never even would've thought about with my old Jeep. I did get denied on one obstical that I know I've done a few times in my other rig, and that the YJ on 35's was able to do after I gave up. The wheel base on my rig was to long for it and had all 4 of my tires in muddy holes trying to climb up large rocks at the same time and they just wouldn't grab. The YJ was able to take each set of holes one at a time to go up and over the rocks. I had the tires at 8 psi, I'll prolly take them down to 5 psi next time.
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Unread 03-04-2013, 10:52 AM   #63
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I run 5 in the rear & 7 in ft with my IROKs, It worked out real well a week ago and no burping air on my double beadlocks.
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Unread 03-04-2013, 11:25 AM   #64
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I run 5 in the rear & 7 in ft with my IROKs, It worked out real well a week ago and no burping air on my double beadlocks.
I miss my Iroks! I deffinately feel like they stuck better than the LTBs do. Your profile says walker evans beadlocks. I didnt know w/e made double beadlocks. Did you change your rims?
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Unread 03-04-2013, 06:03 PM   #65
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Engo 9000s winch install and first impression.

First these top bolts need to be unbolted. I left one of them in on the drivers side, but took both of them out on the passenger side.

Then I unbolted these lower bolts. there is only one on each side and I removed both of them.

Then I swung the bumper and winch plate outwards so that I could easily get to the underside to install the bolts that will hold the winch in place.

These slots in the winch are designed to hold square shaped nuts.

These special nuts slide into place in the previously mentioned slots.

This bolt on the botom of the winch motor is for the ground wire... this is the first stupid thing I came across with this winch design... I think it's stupid because there is no way to connect or disconnect this wire after the winch has been bolted into place. I would've already had the winch bolted to the bumper but I saw this bolt and decided to look at the instructions and see what it was for, otherwise I would've had to unbolt the winch later on to install the ground wire... This is the perfect example of an egg head engineer sitting at a computer some where drawing up designs when he doesn't have any real world experience actually putting things together...

And then there is this little wire... it also gets hooked up to the bolt underneath the winch motor, which is only accessable when the winch isn't mounted... so I figured I'd take it loose here, and then reattach it to the solenoid control box later on... bad idea... as soon as I unscrewed the screw I heard something fall inside the box and rattle around... ghey....

Here are both of the ground wires attached to the motor:


The square nuts installed in their slots:

The winch mounted to the bumper and winch plate:


This is how the hawse fairlead attaches:

Installed:

The bumper and winch plate bolted back in place:

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Unread 03-04-2013, 06:04 PM   #66
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Installed the winch hook, and attached it to a 3/4" shackle:

Then I installed the solenoid control box... and came across a pretty stupid problem... The mounting brackets for the solenoid control box are pressing into the winch line, and that's with the line nice and spooled how it comes from the factory... it could only get worse when actually used in the field and it doesn't spool up perfectly like it came... this is a huge oversight in my opinion! Unless I somehow wound up with an extra 50 ft of line this shouldn't be like this:


After installing the solenoid box, I had to take the cover off to fix the wire that I unscrewed earlier:


This little nut is what came loose inside:

It held a ground wire on the inside of the case:

In my eyes that's a very crappy design... IMO if there is a fastener on the outside of something that can be undone, then what ever it attaches to should remain in place once said fastener is loosened... there shouldn't be parts that fall off inside if a screw comes loose... What if I wasn't the one that loosened said screw, but it just shook loose while I was wheeling? What if the nut rattled around and shorted something out, or what if the loose wire inside did? This is just the beginning.. I found even more once the hood was up so to speak...
This Screw holding one of the solenoids down, is screwed into a nut that has come completely detached from the plastic it used to be seated into:


This is the ONLY screw holding both of the solenoids in place in the control box... and it's loose allowing everything inside to slop around:

The other solenoid doesn't have any screws at all holding it in place, and the bracket the screws would be in doesn't even line up with the nutserts in the plastic:


These are the tabs that were digging into the winch line:

I marked where they needed to be to hold the solenoid control box in place, but still be out of the way of the winch line, then I took a 4" grinder with a cutting wheel and cut about an inch off. You can see in this pic the line where the brackets used to be digging into the winch line:

Now it's finally time to attach all of the power cables:


And the solenoid pack is installed using these Philips screws in the back:
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Unread 03-04-2013, 06:05 PM   #67
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Here's how I routed the wires through the grill:

Then I ran them over towards the passenger side, and then into the engine compartment in a factory provided hole underneath the headlight:

Here are the cables attached to the battery:

My wiring run... it's really simple on my Jeep because I don't have all of the factory stuff to go around:

The final product:


I plugged the included winch control cord into the winch and triggered it out and then in and it worked correctly both ways.

Final thoughts:

1. It was pretty cheap for what it is price wise.
2. It has some pretty quirky installation issues.
3. I needed to modify it just to make sure it didn't malufnction when I used it... not everyone would've noticed the control box digging into the winch line.
4. The build quality of the electrical side of this winch is sub par... mechanically and visually seem to be ok.
It didn't take me long to make some simple mods to it, but it shouldn't have needed any mods to start with. As long as it works well on the trails I think I can forgive the wierd wiring and questionable control box wiring... but would I recommend it to anyone at this time? Absolutely not... Smittybilt, Quadratec, and several other brands make similar winches in a similar price point, and even though they're looked down on by some, they do make products that perform well for the price they cost. The Engo winch was supposed to be the bang for the buck champion though, so I'll see how well it does in the wild and I'll update this thread sometime in the future with what I find.
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Unread 03-05-2013, 11:17 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Necromancer_tat View Post
I miss my Iroks! I deffinately feel like they stuck better than the LTBs do. Your profile says walker evans beadlocks. I didnt know w/e made double beadlocks. Did you change your rims?
I sold my Walkers and got some Stazworks.

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Unread 03-06-2013, 02:34 AM   #69
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I sold my Walkers and got some Stazworks.

Sexxxy!
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Unread 03-06-2013, 02:49 AM   #70
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Unread 03-06-2013, 02:15 PM   #71
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Let's play a guessing game!
Trivia question: What's in this box?



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Unread 03-06-2013, 02:44 PM   #72
wushaw
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Skids?
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Unread 03-06-2013, 03:51 PM   #73
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Skids?
Skids? I can deffinately say no... but I still don't know what you mean by skids?
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Unread 03-06-2013, 03:52 PM   #74
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Fiberglass hood?
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Unread 03-06-2013, 04:04 PM   #75
wushaw
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Quote:
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Skids? I can deffinately say no... but I still don't know what you mean by skids?
How about skid plates?
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