Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

B2CARPEN's 2000 Jeep TJ 4.7L Stroker Build

135K views 720 replies 50 participants last post by  CobraMarty 
#1 ·
Hi my JF buddies!! It's been quite a while since I've been active on this forum due to some prior time restrictions, but now I finally have the time to document the current project that I've been sloooowly working on the past few months... very exciting :2thumbsup:

Background...
About two winters ago the 4.0L developed a loud knocking noise that I originally thought to be a collapsed lifter, so I decided to park the jeep in my garage until I found the time to tear into the engine. A few month ago I began disassembling the engine and removed the cylinder head to gain access to the lifters and investigated to see if any were heavily damaged enough to cause the symptomatic knocking noise. They were all collapsed, but not smashed or pancaked. This only meant that the issue was in the lower end and most likely a broken piston skirt (very common issue for high mileaged jeeps).

When i dropped the oil pan down for inspection this is what I found...



This means that I'm looking at a full engine rebuild at best, but from a positive point of view this gave me the excuse to ditch the AMC 242 crank and stroke the motor :devil: and that's exactly what this thread is about.

The motor has about 185k miles, but surprisingly there were not many unexpected challenges that have popped up so far, but I intend to share this entire process from start to finish and ongoing thereafter. This should be a lot of fun and I will do my best to document as much as possible along the way... picture heavy! :duhrock:

more to come soon...
 
See less See more
1
#6 ·
Organization is key when tearing apart something you intend on putting back together again, so lable, bag, and separate out every bolt, wire, part you plan to reuse or reinstall. I took the precaution to organize everything since I was originally planning on rebuilding the 4.0L, but it doesn't hurt even tho nearly everything will be replaced.

Here's some pics of the engine tear down...

Valve cover removed, everything looked so clean considering the mileage...



Rocker arms and push rods removed...





Fuel rail removed, you can see how dirty these lil injectors are...







Spark plugs were shot...



Removed front of motor components (therm housing, water pump, fan clutch, move power steering pump to the side)



Wiring moved to the side and labled...

 
#7 ·
Some other things worth mentioning... remove the spark plug rail, alternator, A/C hard lines and compressor (if you happen to have A/C), disconnect all cables, wires, and vacuum lines from the intake manifold so you basically have left the manifold and headers to still be remove and then the cylinder head.

Don't forget to drain the coolant from the radiator and do your best to drain the heater hoses into a bucket or container, remove the radiator hoses. Drain the oil!! You do not want to drop that oil pan when it's filled with oil, you will be sorry.
 
#11 ·
Then you can safely remove the cylinder head, which weighs 60lbs and is filthy and covered in oil (bad valve cover) and just plain sucky to lift off the block, just be careful and take your time. Once it's removed then you can remove the oil pan and gain access to the connecting rod bolts, you will slide the pistons straight up and out the top of the block.

So everyone who asks "can I remove the pistons without removing the head??" The correct answer is no. Even if u get it out after nicking up your crank journals, how do you plan to get new pistons installed? And if you have any real mileage on your engine (like mine) then you MUST take the block to a machine shop anyway... don't take short cuts here...

Pics of the cylinder head removed, removing lifters out from the lifter bores using an extended magnet, oil pan removed, in reverse order lol...

 
#18 ·
The block and head are now in good hands at Speed Performance CNC machine shop in Wauconda IL, Tony is an amazing guy who has been in the machining and engine building business for 25+ years and knows his ****. Not only will this engine be machined to perfection, but it will also look badass once I rebuild it, paint it and drop it back into a clean and painted engine bay. :D
 
#21 ·
It was this point that I decided to pull the block and go the stroker route. If you are just rebuilding your 4.0L or going nuts building a torque monster stroker you should ALWAYS send your block, head, connecting rods and pistons, crank, and anything else associated with your build to a machine shop for proper inspection, cleaning, machining, and balancing.

The tolerances are within thousands of inches which take special tools and gauges to figure out, so taking your engine and components to a machine shop is a must! It is money well spent and foolish to skip this step. Just my two cents.

Here's the jeep with the front grill removed to make life so much better when removing the block from the trans...



Engine hoist in position and attached to 4 head bolts on each corner of the deck...

 
#22 ·
Removed all the bolts attached from the trans (NV).. there are 4 of those bolts connected to the engine and the top two are E12 6 point star bolts and a complete ***** to remove. I ended up removing the motor mounts first so I could lower the block and trans to gain better access to those two upper bolts. After stripping the daylights out of them, I went for a different approach lol..



With the heads of those bolts cut off, the rest threaded out by hand. Then the block carefully was pulled apart from the trans. I used a ratchet strap around the frame rails under the trans to support it while the block was out.

 
#24 ·
Looks like my past weekend with a L-226.

Anyway good to see you back after lurking for what seems like eons!
 
#28 ·
This is what a rear engine oil leak looks like :laugh: Most likely from the valve cover, the rear main seal was fine and not an issue.



Clutch and flywheel look amazing and in great shape considering I have never changed the clutch in all my years of owning this jeep, about 100k miles. There's no way to know if it was changed out prior to my ownership but from what I hear about the stock clutches, I'm suspecting this to be the original... which is absolutely amazing.





I will be resurfacing the flywheel and most likely going with an OEM replacement clutch since they have been known to hold up even with stroker motors.
 
#29 ·
With the block on the stand, I removed the harmonic dampener, timing gear cover, cam bolt, sprocket and chain, and camshaft retainer plate. Then the camshaft can be removed AFTER you remove the oil distributor since it operates off the camshaft distributor gear.



The camshaft was in excellent condition considering the mileage and that every single lifter was collapsed.



 
#31 ·
Now for the fun part, AMC 258 remanned crank from crankshaft rebuilders, ground down, polished, and balanced. 0.020 rod journals and 0.010 main bearings. This is the light weight 258 with only 4 counter weights, for the 4.2L from 1987-1990. It has the same snout as our 242 cranks so it's a simple drop in.



 
#32 ·
There's two common routes to take when building a stroker motor..

- 4.2L crank with 4.2L rods (short rod) and standard height 4.0L pistons (low buck / poor man stroker)

Or

- 4.2L crank with 4.0L rods (long rod) and custom height pistons (medium/high buck stroker depending on CR and supporting factors)

I'm taking the second route listed using Keith Black custom height premium forged ICON pistons (IC944-060), which I have in my possession :D
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top