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Unread 07-21-2014, 10:12 PM   #91
Sahara Surfer
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 134
I then completed the roll bar connections using the same interior-sleeve method with plug weld holes as before:







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Unread 07-21-2014, 10:13 PM   #92
Sahara Surfer
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Pearland, TX
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With major welding out of the way, I drove the TJ-6 out of the garage to hose off all of the grinding dust that had piled up in there over the last year.



After a thorough wash, it is now time to prep the exterior for bondo, primer, and painting. This next set of steps cannot be rushed.

Here are some shots of the cleaned interior.





The side compartments are not done. I am mulling starting the sheet metal work for these and then welding them on prior to applying monstaliner at a later date. It all depends on how much free time I am going to have over the next three weeks.
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Unread 08-20-2014, 09:41 PM   #93
Sahara Surfer
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In preparation for the body filler, I deep cleaned the exterior, scuffed the old paint, and applied a coat of epoxy primer. The paint on the windshield frame is starting to get old and discolored so I am going to repaint it as well.






The interior is all going to be covered in olive drab Monstaliner. I need to do more sheetmetal work and welding before I can fully apply primer to the inside of the tub. Therefore, I only sprayed primer on the bare metal for rust protection.

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Unread 08-20-2014, 09:42 PM   #94
Sahara Surfer
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Application of body filler takes a lot of work. It took a lot of block sanding, reapplication of body filler, and more sanding to get everything just flat enough.





For anyone wanting to try their hand at body filler work for the first time, I have to recommend the following two products that will make your experience less painful.

Evercoat Rage Gold - This stuff rocks! Don't waste your time and money on "Bondo" brand filler (They su[k). It spreads really well and is much easier to work with.

Onion Board - A disposable mixing paper palette makes cleanup so much simpler and there is less of a chance from getting bits of dried body filler trash in your finish. Totally worth it.


The real test of your body filler skills is that layer of high build 2K primer on it. I surprised myseld with how little wet sanding I will need to do on the body panel extensions. This will really look good when the paint and clear coat are applied.




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Unread 08-20-2014, 09:42 PM   #95
Sahara Surfer
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With the arrival of some needed metal working tools, I continued my work with interior storage compartments. As before, I mocked everything up in posterboard. I then used the pieces of posterboard for my sheet metal templates. This work will take some time. In the interest of expediency, I will only going to work on those parts that need to be welded to the tub (I am itching to apply the Monstaliner already!



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Unread 09-01-2014, 08:40 PM   #96
bfr
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Great looking work! I can't believe I just found this thread (while searching for info on trackbars of all things). I like the storage compartments. I may have missed it, but what transfer case/sye are you running? Your driveshaft ended up 1.5" longer than mine. Do you have any way of judging the angle of your trackbar bracket (axle end) relative to your pinion?
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Unread 09-05-2014, 02:19 PM   #97
Sahara Surfer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bfr
Great looking work! I can't believe I just found this thread (while searching for info on trackbars of all things). I like the storage compartments. I may have missed it, but what transfer case/sye are you running? Your driveshaft ended up 1.5" longer than mine. Do you have any way of judging the angle of your trackbar bracket (axle end) relative to your pinion?
Thanks! I am just using the stock NP231 transfer case with a JB conversions SYE.

I the judged the bracket angle by first setting the wheels and frame as close to ride height as possible. From that point, I just kept tweaking the pinion angle with control arm adjustments until the drive shaft line was in line with the axle yoke. I used a long piece of PVC as a stand-in for the drive shaft. Then I attached the track bar to the frame mount and noted the angle it came in at when in contact with the axle. Understand, that this was all very rough and in the end, I used a Johnny Joint for added flexibility.
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