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Unread 01-19-2014, 10:51 AM   #136
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Drive for 20 mins at a time letting the diff cool down between drives and go at varying speeds but not over 45-50 for the first 500 miles then change your fluid and inspect gears for uneven wear. Really tedious but it has to be done for long gear life.

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Unread 01-19-2014, 11:18 AM   #137
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Drive for 20 mins at a time letting the diff cool down between drives and go at varying speeds but not over 45-50 for the first 500 miles then change your fluid and inspect gears for uneven wear. Really tedious but it has to be done for long gear life.
I have to drive a little on the highway to get the Jeep home. Is that a problem? Putting 500 miles on this thing might take me 6 months.

I have Amsoil on standby for the engine, transmission, t-case and diffs before I hit EJS.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 11:26 AM   #138
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Originally Posted by g-rocc View Post
Drive for 20 mins at a time letting the diff cool down between drives and go at varying speeds but not over 45-50 for the first 500 miles then change your fluid and inspect gears for uneven wear. Really tedious but it has to be done for long gear life.
You'll have to excuse me, but I like to question conventional, and non-conventional, wisdom. Is this, or any other, break in done on new cars/trucks/SUVs as they roll out of a manufacturing plant? It seems reasonable that one should confirm proper installation at some point after the initial install, but your prescribed break in feels a bit more intensive than it needs to be. I'd like to hear the logic in it.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 11:52 AM   #139
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Here are a couple of links below. Most cars aren't going to see the abuse we put our R & P's through but any car mfg will tell you there is an engine break in period you should go through. With a new truck that I would haul with I would do the same thing.

I work in hand tool manufacturing and tempering is a really important process to get steel hard and for things with cutting surfaces like snips or pruners it is necessary for edge retention. To make it as simple as I know how to gears will come hardened from the factory however the points of contact where the ring teeth and piñon teeth mash can be extra hardened through a good break in process. Consider the teeth hammering up against each other in a hot environment similar to forging making the grain structure of the steel tighter thus stronger then the cooling the tempering. This is all happening at a microscopic level but making a huge amount of difference in regards to resilience.

You can go even another level higher and get your gears cryo tempered which is actually rapidly freezing them. Cryo tempering can significantly increase gear hardness.

Anyways just insurance and assurance:
http://www.ringpinion.com/technicalh...r_Break-In.inc

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/ft-14...procedure.html
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Unread 01-19-2014, 11:54 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkLaHoMaTJ
I have to drive a little on the highway to get the Jeep home. Is that a problem? Putting 500 miles on this thing might take me 6 months. I have Amsoil on standby for the engine, transmission, t-case and diffs before I hit EJS.
I'd just keep it slow. I was taking 20 minute drives almost every night for what seemed like an eternity.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 12:02 PM   #141
try2holdmywheel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g-rocc View Post
Here are a couple of links below. Most cars aren't going to see the abuse we put our R & P's through but any car mfg will tell you there is an engine break in period you should go through. With a new truck that I would haul with I would do the same thing.

I work in hand tool manufacturing and tempering is a really important process to get steel hard and for things with cutting surfaces like snips or pruners it is necessary for edge retention. To make it as simple as I know how to gears will come hardened from the factory however the points of contact where the ring teeth and piñon teeth mash can be extra hardened through a good break in process. Consider the teeth hammering up against each other in a hot environment similar to forging making the grain structure of the steel tighter thus stronger then the cooling the tempering. This is all happening at a microscopic level but making a huge amount of difference in regards to resilience.

You can go even another level higher and get your gears cryo tempered which is actually rapidly freezing them. Cryo tempering can significantly increase gear hardness.

Anyways just insurance and assurance:
http://www.ringpinion.com/technicalh...r_Break-In.inc

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/ft-14...procedure.html
Seems reasonable.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 02:52 PM   #142
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I'd just keep it slow. I was taking 20 minute drives almost every night for what seemed like an eternity.
Will do. It's about a 30 min drive from my place to my gear guys house. Varying speeds from 35-75mph. I'll look for backroads, keep my speed down, and not do any quick starts for 500 miles. I'll try to do this right.
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Unread 01-23-2014, 09:05 PM   #143
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Jeep is ready! Pick it up tomorrow after work. Installer said the gears went in without a hitch..no real hang ups or snags. Can't wait to have power again!
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Unread 01-23-2014, 09:27 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by OkLaHoMaTJ View Post
Jeep is ready! Pick it up tomorrow after work. Installer said the gears went in without a hitch..no real hang ups or snags. Can't wait to have power again!
I think you will be very surprised by the difference .
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Unread 01-24-2014, 06:50 PM   #145
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Well I must say…it is VERY nice having power in all 6 gears now. 1st is almost useless and 5th and 6th now pull uphill.

2nd gear starts are great and I can jump from 2nd to 4th if its flat. RPM's are a little on the high side. I got up to 65 and I was around 2750rpm. I didn't want to push it too hard so I was very light on the throttle.

I give it a 10/10. Thanks to everyone that helped answer my questions.

Next up RCV's.
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Unread 01-24-2014, 07:52 PM   #146
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I dig your build. Well put together LJ.

What made you go with 5.13, as opposed to 4.88? I've got 4.88 Yukons and like them quite a bit. Mine goes down the freeway just fine. I suppose there are times I would like to have a bit more power in the upper gears, though it's nice not to be revving too high as I travel to the trail.

I found this chart interesting
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Unread 01-24-2014, 09:13 PM   #147
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Glad you like them , and first gear in 4 low is going to be great on the ledges and technical stuff .
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Unread 01-24-2014, 09:59 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by try2holdmywheel View Post
I dig your build. Well put together LJ.

What made you go with 5.13, as opposed to 4.88? I've got 4.88 Yukons and like them quite a bit. Mine goes down the freeway just fine. I suppose there are times I would like to have a bit more power in the upper gears, though it's nice not to be revving too high as I travel to the trail.

I found this chart interesting
I went with the 5.13's over the 4.88's for a few reasons…

1. I am already at a disadvantage being 5500 feet high and cruising through the mountain passes at even higher elevation the extra grunt the 5.13's have will help.

2. G-rocc has a very similar equipped LJ here on the forum and really likes the combo of 5.13's and 37's. He lives close to me and has been a good source for info.

3. My other buddy with a 06 LJ Rubicon, 6 speed, 4.88's and 37''KM2's wishes he had 5.13's. His jeep does great overall but when we are loaded down with fuel, 3-4 people, gear for the day, etc…his LJ is struggling up the passes. He says all the time he wishes he had 5.13's.

After hearing from a guy who has 37's and wishes he had 5.13's and hearing from guys who had 5.13's and 37's and really liking their setup, I figured I couldn't go wrong with the deeper gear set.

Quote:
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Glad you like them , and first gear in 4 low is going to be great on the ledges and technical stuff .
They are great! I had pretty decent control off road with the factory gearing so I'm hoping for even greater with the new setup.
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Unread 01-25-2014, 12:26 PM   #149
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Anyone out there who has any knowledge on ball joints…from what I've gathered Spicers are the way to go.

My Jeep has 75k miles on factory Jeep ball joints and unit bearings with about 30k miles of that on 35's and some offroad use. I'm surprised the factory stuff has lasted this long…they're not even really showing signs of wear either. I'm just being preventative at this point.

I'll go ahead and order the Timken unit bearings since that is what everyone else uses.

My real questions is are the Synergy ball joints worth the extra cash compared to the Spicers?
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Unread 01-25-2014, 02:24 PM   #150
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I just replaced my ball joints and units at 75. My units were showing some signs of their age. Went with spicer and timkens too.
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