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Unread 01-29-2014, 08:10 AM   #2671
dayriesw
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Where did you get it and what is the length?

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Unread 01-29-2014, 08:35 AM   #2672
MO2500
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Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
Where did you get it and what is the length?
12" spot/flood combo with 3 watt Crees, he got it through a group buy one of the members of my local club organized. I picked up a couple too, they are freaking bright!
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Unread 02-18-2014, 10:32 AM   #2673
TURBevO8
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Hey man! As I am coming closer and closer to my next project I may have to pick your brain a bit. That being the rear stretch. Two questions come to mind. One, when notching the frame for the outboarding, how did you determine how far into the frame to cut initially? I would think you would want to cut the minimum while having the shock clear the tire and anything else. Second is you used the Synergy/Poly frame mounts right? I am going to have to dig back through to see how you set and welded them. Any pointers? Thanks!
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Unread 02-18-2014, 10:41 AM   #2674
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Third question...what did you about the rear x-member (formerly used for tub and shocks) that you cut in post 1609 (2nd pic down shows it perfectly)? Did you just ditch it and the 2 body mounts or fab up something new? Sorry, just too many pages!
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Unread 02-18-2014, 12:30 PM   #2675
AngryTJ
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Originally Posted by TURBevO8 View Post
One, when notching the frame for the outboarding, how did you determine how far into the frame to cut initially?

Second is you used the Synergy/Poly frame mounts right? I am going to have to dig back through to see how you set and welded them. Any pointers?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBevO8 View Post
Third question...what did you about the rear x-member
1) Will you be using the stock upper bucket?

Im trying to remember but I believe I measured exactly 5 inches rearward from my rear bump stop and marked it on the frame. I then measured how big my upper coil mount was to ensure the bump stop would be in the center of that mark and how much of the frame I needed to notch to ensure it fell in place. Then before cutting while the rear axle was still in place I set the axle at full bump with no springs and measured to ensure a full 5 in stretch would clearance the tank. Not sure if thats the best way to do it but it worked for me.

2) Yes I used the poly mounts and set them about an inch from touching my tcase skid on the frame and welded them in. The artec brackets are just as good you simply need to weld them together yourself.

3) The rear crossmember I notched to allow my stock upper coil bucket to fit in the middle of the frame and still touching the crossmember. Its welded to the frame and the crossmember. I also have to notch the crossmember because my upper truss hits since I sit low but I havent had the time to do so.
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Unread 02-18-2014, 03:51 PM   #2676
TURBevO8
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Hey thanks for the response.

1. Sorry, I was not clear. I was referring to the shock towers. I am going to use the Ford F250 towers and not sure how far into the frame I need to cut. I was hoping to not have to keep cutting a little off at a time, but also don't want to remove more of the frame rail than I have to.

2. I already got the Poly mounts and geometry figured out. I was just hoping you wouldn't say something like "I had to remove all the body mounts and jack up the tub to access to weld the top to the frame" or something like that.

3. I see what you did there. That makes sense. I think I may just use some 1x1x1/4" tube away from where the truss mounts will be when flexed to add rigidity back to the frame. I may skip those 2 body mounts or I may tie in to them with some plate. I have a 1.25" BL and will just remove the BL at those 2 mounts to be able to mount a bit higher. I'll post pics!

Thanks again...
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Unread 02-18-2014, 05:18 PM   #2677
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I cut the frame almost all the way through. You want to make sure your lower axle shock mount is as far outward as possible so when looking from the front or rear of the jeep they are mounted as much like / \ as possible.

You can see I left a small lip from the frame and then cut a slot in the tower for more welding area.
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Unread 02-18-2014, 08:37 PM   #2678
AngryTJ
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Final trail ride of my trip last summer

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Unread 02-18-2014, 08:46 PM   #2679
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That's it.... we have to go back...
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What's a CV shaft and why do I need one?
Driveline 101
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Unread 02-18-2014, 10:14 PM   #2680
aw12345
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That's it.... we have to go back...
We gotta gotta do Carnage canyon, looks like a hoot
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Unread 02-18-2014, 10:15 PM   #2681
gst95dsm
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We gotta gotta do Carnage canyon, looks like a hoot
I'm in.
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Unread 02-18-2014, 10:23 PM   #2682
kyle_craig
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We gotta gotta do Carnage canyon, looks like a hoot
Chinaman's is a good time. Carnage is uber gnar-gnar.
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Unread 02-18-2014, 10:40 PM   #2683
aw12345
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Chinaman's is a good time. Carnage is uber gnar-gnar.
That's exactly what makes it a fun challenge
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Unread 02-19-2014, 05:44 AM   #2684
TURBevO8
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Originally Posted by AngryTJ View Post
I cut the frame almost all the way through. You want to make sure your lower axle shock mount is as far outward as possible so when looking from the front or rear of the jeep they are mounted as much like / \ as possible.

You can see I left a small lip from the frame and then cut a slot in the tower for more welding area.
Angling them like that would help them not smack into the frame when flexing the axle. Ex: droop the driver side and raise the passenger side and the shock smacks into the frame if you do not do what you are saying. I get it. Thanks!

PS: When the weather gets warm I am going to hold you to that Rausch Creek trip we talked about a while back. I'm heading up there this Sat actually. Last run on 94.5" WB.
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Unread 02-19-2014, 09:52 AM   #2685
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Chinaman's is a good time. Carnage is uber gnar-gnar.
Ya, not sure I ever want to be on that trail with my junk.

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I'm in.
I will be there when you run Carnage. Bring your spare 8.8
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