Man, DW has VERY little to do with alignment. You can be toed out, toed too far in, 2 degrees caster with bent C's......as long as your front end can control the tires, it won't wobble. One of these days, things will click and you'll laugh at yourself for spending that kind of money. If you can read the lines on a measuring tape, you can get it dead on. I can almost ASSURE you that if you did it yourself, you'd do a better job than anyone at a Firestone, 4wp or the likes. Part of owning a jeep is learning and mastering these things that most people think are "meant for the pros." You obviously have the capability to do much more difficult things than adjusting the front end of a solid axle vehicle so I'm not sure why you continue to run away from it. You can do it.
[FONT="Arial Black"][SIZE="5"][COLOR="Red"]RED JEEP CLUB # 621[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
It's not much, but check out my build thread;
[QUOTE=krashnpa;12397572] I know kev was riding his tank skid and belly pretty good on some of the blacks up at RC, but he doesn't back down from the line either.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=squazz;13612008]so I use my original nuts?[/QUOTE]
You should, in no way, take any of this personally. It's just business. So to recap, I come in peace, I mean you no harm, and you all will die. Gallaxhar out.
1) 4WD Parts said they ordered the T.W. drive shaft March 16th... a week later it still hadn't came in, so I called T.W. and he said an order was never placed. 4WD Parts found out the order got "hung up" in their global purchasing department. So I just told them I would just order it myself...
2) I ordered the T.W. 1310 Rubicon drive shaft and it's scheduled to arrive tomorrow (Wednesday, March 30th) morning. Once it gets here, I'm running it up to 4WD Parts to have the alignment finally done.
3) In the free time I've had since the jeep has been gone, I was able to work on the XJ breakdown... the remaining parts will be listed soon... but I have already sold the tub, engine, and transmission. Some parts that will be listed are: PIAA lights, IPF Lights, Kooks Custom Header, T.W. Drive shaft, Painless dual battery setup with 2 like-new batteries included, 12 disc CD changer, XM radio module & antenna, etc., etc.
4) With the garage finally clear of the XJ, my last three projects before wheeling this summer will be: (1) the garage hardtop hoist, (2) finishing the PIAA light installs, and (3) installing the currie antirock. Once I get my TJ back, I'll start laying everything out and figuring out how I want to build the hoist... but it seems very easy and straight-forward. I'll be using ideas from each of these links to come up with how I'll be doing it: Link 1, Link 2, Link 3. For the PIAA light install, I'll be using this link for hooking up the switch: Link. And lastly, for the currie antirock install, I'll be using this link: Link.
If I get some free time sometime this summer, I'll go ahead and order / install front and rear side panels and the rockers... but I gotta wait for them to go on sale + free shipping. I can't justify $2000 on fenders and rockers and then drop another $350 on shipping. I'll be buying everything from either MetalCloak or T&T Customs. I like T&T Customs rear armor / fenders much better, but I like MetalCloaks front armor / fenders much better and you dont have to use an aftermarket air intake.
Originally Posted by KevKaos
This is an excellent thread, and I haven't even finished reading it all yet. Bravo sir.
Last Friday I was supposed to pick my Jeep up from 4 Wheel Parts after they performed the alignment and installed the rear driveshaft. Upon pickup, there was a weird noise from the front right and a burning smell. I took it back to them. After they test drove it, the tech brought it back and said he heard no weird noise, but that there was oil from the transfer case pouring out where the electronic speed sensor goes in. The speed sensor was busted and hanging there. By Tuesday, they got a new speed sensor in, but didn't know what caused the original problem... but they went ahead and test drove it and said everything was good. I picked it up, drove it home and this morning (Wednesday) there is transfer case oil all in the garage floor.
What do I do?!?! Could this have been caused by me driving around for 2 months in 4WD high (highway use & daily driver) with only front wheel drive... and then switching back to 2WD once the rear driveshaft was installed!?!?
4 Wheel Parts covered the cost of the first electronic speed sensor since I didn't have the problem when I dropped it off there... but now what? I'm sure they are (or someone) is going to have to open the transfer case up to see if there is damage AND replace the electronic speed sensor (again).
Alright, so I posted this out in the main forums and one guy responded and absolutely NAILED the problem...
Originally Posted by biffgnar
Did the O ring get put back on the speedo sensor when it was repaired?
biffgnar... I owe you a few beers
You were EXACTLY right on the problem... I opened up the transfer case to make sure nothing had been damaged by running it low on transfer case oil... and yesterday I looked at the speedo sensor and the o-ring was not on there!
I ran up to advance auto parts and picked up a kit of o-ring seals and gaskets for $5 and found an o-ring that fit nicely.
I had already ordered new output seals for the transfer case, so when they get in today or tomorrow, I can put everything back together and I should be back in business.
Thanks again for your help! Truly appreciate the input that saved me a BUNCH of headache.
Things have been going MUCH better lately and progress is starting to be made again. Transfer case seals should be here Monday, I found an o-ring that fit the speedo sensor, I installed my PIAA fog and windshield lights and wired them up to factory switches, and I am half way done with installing the anti-rock sway bars. Only a few things left before it's time to test everything out.
Also, this is no longer my daily driver... it's now just my play toy. Here's my new daily driver:
2011 F150 EcoBoost 4x4 Super Crew King Ranch with Offroad Package (3.73 gears / e-locker / skid plates)
Progress has continued (except for 1 small issue)!
The seals arrived yesterday and my buddy and I got to work on the transfer case. After checking everything 13 times to make sure it was right, we RTVed it and slapped everything back together and installed it back in the jeep. While letting it dry, I knocked out almost all of the currie anti rock install.
Today, I filled the transfer case with synthetic ATF fluid, reinstalled the skid plate, and took it out for a test spin.
Everything seemed to be running fine, but then I went to a grass trail and tried 4 lo with the lockers. The front locker engaged just fine, but the rear locker just kept blinking and trying to engage. I checked the pumps... both were working just fine. I then crawled under and unplugged the hose from the axle housing and it was pushing plenty of air through.
Tomorrow, I'm going to check the electrical connections. It might actually be locked, but the signal isn't being returned... thus the blinking light... which I've had happen before. If everything appears to be fine with the connections, I'll probably pop off the diff cover and take a look.
If anyone has any other ideas, let me know. If I can get this issue resolved, I'll be going on a day trip this weekend to make sure everything is good. Once I'm sure I'm in the clear, Wind Rock here I come!
Alright, I think the leak is solved... I'll find out tomorrow for sure. The electrical connections were perfectly fine, so I took a spray bottle and put soap and water in it and then sprayed the area around where the air tube plugs into the diff. BINGO! The water and soap mixture hit a pin sized hole where the air was leaking out and starting bubbling / spraying. I went up a bought a bottle of Rustoleum's Rust Remover and squirted it all over around the air input nozzle and let it sit 10 minutes, used a bristle brush to clean it the best I could, and then took brake cleaner and sprayed it all off. Once everything was nice and dry, I took JB Weld and put a nice layer across the pin hole leak.
Like I said, tomorrow I'm going to verify this fixed the problem... if so, I'm heading down for a day trip at either Wheelin in the Country or Wooly's Offroad sometime either Friday (I'm off work) or this weekend if anyone cares to tag along.
Sealing the pin hole worked, the rear locker now engages. Time to test it all out this weekend (prob. Saturday if anyone would like to join). Tomorrow I'm going to try and build my garage hoist.... time to go get all the supplies.