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20K views 146 replies 23 participants last post by  vstre 
#1 ·
:DFigured I'd start one of these. Had the Jeep now for 4 years. Hasn't gotten as much love as it deserves, but my other hobbies are boating and mountain biking, and I'm a full time M.E. major, so the budget isn't huge.

It all started here:

1999 Wrangler SE
2.5 Liter Low Output
AX-5 Transmission
Dana 30/35 combo...not off to a good start :rofl:
 

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#98 ·
I agree also. I was starting to regret my purchase, which was based solely on weight and backspacing. But they look much better with the shine gone. :D





Ebay score



Plenty stable on the street in the softest position. I don't know why anyone would buy a different anti-sway bar alternative.
 
#101 ·
Awesome work man..my sahara frame rust was almost as bad as the sahara you repaired. Impressed with the amount of work you put into saving both of these vehicles - almost makes me feel bad about trading in my TJ for a LJ!

I've got a pair of MCE gen II's sitting in my basement that were supposed to go on the TJ fenders because they were so rusted, but now I'll be putting them on the LJ...do you have any tips on the lighting? I'm concerned about getting it street legal and your pic on pg. 2 looks straight from the factory
 
#102 ·
Thank you for the compliments. You likely made a great choice on the LJ, I want to cut this one in half and stretch it. :D

As for the lights. Strip back the factory wiring until you find where its one harness and it splices off. Cut back to there and install your adapter, which can be easily made by consulting this thread

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/led-turn-signal-installation-1081228/

and a quick run to radioshack. Install there and splice off to your two lights. They will both function as running lights and turn signals. Let me know if you have any more questions.

You will also need to modify your existing turn signal relay. A quick forum search will yield the necessary information on that. My relay simply needed to be replaced with one which was LED compatible. Your's is a bit different, so I can't help you directly.
 
#103 ·
Crossmember done. Not the best I can do, so planning on building another, but it'll get the job done for the moment.



I'll try to get the front done first.



Also planning on actually getting around to the front control arms. I'll be doing them in pairs, bottoms first, and uppers last. Torn on joints though. Johnny Joints or take a chance on the Metalcloaks?

In the meantime, it just needs some good ol TLC. Wheelin Saturday.
 
#105 ·
Nice build! :thumbsup: I have a 2.5 ax-5 TJ SE as well.

What are the 4.56 gears with the 31's like?

I plan on running 4.88 with 33's.
The 4.56s with the 32s are perfect. They were a tad much with the 30s though ha.
 
#113 ·
I warped it. So I cut reliefs in it and butt welded it. The welder I was using when I did the final welding had a leaky gas line that I didn't notice at first, I got frustrated and warped it a bit the other way :laugh:. Also the D rings don't sit quite square, about 3 degrees off. I'm not concerned about strength due to the butt welds, because only trailering will put stress on them and my heaviest boat is in the 600 lb range. It will work for now, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist, so I'll try again. It was my first attempt at fabrication, so I can't be too disappointed I suppose.
 
#114 ·
So clearing out the garage of stuff I no longer am in need of.

I've got a U-Haul brand tow hitch in really good condition. I just painted it and it comes with brand new grade 8 hardware, buyer needs to weld some thin rod to the bolt heads to fish them through the frame.

I have a Cragar Soft 8 15x7 4.25" backspacing wheel, never used.

I have a set of bestop seat covers in sand. Great condition. For 1997-2002.

Brand new Crown brand OEM style anti-sway bar links.

I'll list in the classifieds as well.
 
#115 ·
Wasn't taking too many pictures when we went wheeling.

At the landing.


New puppy! 50% Lab 50% Pitbull. She's not too sure about wheeling yet. :)



Jeep did well. The only real test in these trail systems is a ledge at the end of a small hill climb that will trip up your unsprung weight. Jeep went up like it wasn't there. Only other vehicle to make it was a 4runner on 36s locked front and rear. So I can feel good about that I think.

Don't take you're wife's JK and drive it straight into a rock. :rolleyes:



Posing



 
#116 ·
Great build! I think a bumper was the first mods I did when I had my CJ and I did the exact same thing regarding warping:laugh: I had to notch and redo mine as well.

Love pics of the pup too! My wife and I have a 5 year old 75lb Pitbull/ Chocolate Lab Mix. Absolutely a great dog.
 

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#118 ·
Great build! I think a bumper was the first mods I did when I had my CJ and I did the exact same thing regarding warping:laugh: I had to notch and redo mine as well.

Love pics of the pup too! My wife and I have a 5 year old 75lb Pitbull/ Chocolate Lab Mix. Absolutely a great dog.
That's a great looking dog. Here's a better one of her, in the Jeep of course.



Yeah, first fab project, gonna make mistakes I suppose. Once I get around to getting to front bumper done, I'll go back and do another.

tdls, I'm a huge fan of the MCE fenders. The install was smooth and easy. Their customer service is fantastic, price is right and they were a perfect solution for gaining some tire clearance with only the 1" body lift and getting rid of the typical TJ fender rot. Also love the fact they resemble the old jeep flat fenders. Only thing I'm not a huge fan of is the texture. I would like to paint them to match and they'll have to be body fillered and sanded to make their surfaces flat.
 
#119 ·
The MCE fenders solve a lot of problems. Rusty factory fenders, light weight, and tire clearance without trimming.

I have thought about trimming the rear fender flare to match the front if i go with MCE fenders. What is the difference between the factory rear and MCE lip wise?

Are the Warrior wheels 4" backspacing?
 
#120 ·
The MCE fenders solve a lot of problems. Rusty factory fenders, light weight, and tire clearance without trimming.

I have thought about trimming the rear fender flare to match the front if i go with MCE fenders. What is the difference between the factory rear and MCE lip wise?

Are the Warrior wheels 4" backspacing?
They have just about exactly 1" of lip, I am considering doing the same. The wheels are 4.5" backspacing. Only rub on the lower factory arms at full turn. But, those will be gone soon... :shhh:
 
#127 ·
Got some little things done recently.

These little guys exploded the other day when I opened the door in a wind gust. Footman's loop hit my foot so hard it bruised. Notice the shattered plastic.



Shouldn't break now.

Little touch of luxury. It was pretty awful doing intermittent myself.



Yesterday, she hit 170K



Still going stong...mostly.

Also have two of these in 13" coming in the mail. :highfive:

 
#129 ·
Haven't changed things up very much. I did rebuild the bumper in order to improve the approach angle which was atrocious with the Jeeperman bumper. Did some wheeling this past weekend:





Love the antirock. So stable and keeps the front axle in check much better on climbs.













My buddy said "maybe next year" :shhh:
 
#137 ·
I wish Rigid made something between a 10 and 20" I really didn't want to go the chinese route. But, this was the perfect size at 13.5" and has quite the ingenious adjustable mounting brackets. Reflector quality is obviously lacking, but for the trail it lights up everything. The Trucklites handle road driving duties.

Yes, the grille is simply plastidipped. Laid it on really thick to avoid chipping. Whole can if I remember correctly.
 
#141 ·
Thank you. Should have some progress this week. Weekend overtime is a no go....so guess I'll just have to work on the heep. ;)

Front suspension should be completed on Saturday. Rear's going to take a little more time :shhh:.

Hopefully these quiet down the Antirock.



The provided heims do not stand up.
 
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