I bought the ZJ about two weeks ago. It's a '95, 4.0, stock height, brush bar, 221,000 miles for $1000. PA inspected and being driven 3 - 4 days a week. PO had installed a JY radiator, new water pump, front brakes/ rotors & 1 new front caliper, It has new 4 "Sensor Trac" shocks, drag link, PS pump, Belt and new PB cables.
I replaced the battery cables, battery, starter, thermostat, thermostat housing, temp sensor, PCV valve, oil change, radiator/engine/ heater flush with fresh anti-freeze. I installed a new cap, rotor, wires, copper core plugs and air filter the first week.
It has a broken drivers lower door hinge and the latch area was "creatively repaired". I picked up a very nice door at the JY for $125. The rear hatch was rusted through at the bottom, I picked up a very nice rear hatch from the same ZJ at the JY, it had new gas struts on it too!, $125. I got lucky as they are the same color as my ZJ! I also picked up a nice set of '98 ZJ wheels and put a set of Wally World Goodyear Wranglers on them. I also got the woodgrain radio bezel and RH dash woodgrain trim, $15. The overhead console will have to wait a bit.
Next up, I need to replace the RF hub, LF CV joint & hub, prothane bushing & sway bar bushing kit and then it will get an alignment. While we have it jacked up I'll change motor & trans mounts. I have a new silicone Fel-Pro valve cover gasket to install yet. I also got a new fan clutch, as the fan turns constantly, even with 195* thermostat there is very little heat. Temp gauge never goes above 110*.
The engine runs very nicely with no noises. Transmission shifts well, the VC must have been changed as the 4WD works perfectly with no noises even in a tight figure 8, other than the LH CV joint clicking. I have a steep driveway and steeper yet hill into the back yard, I had no problems going through 5"s of snow on both. I drove through 135 miles of un-plowed roads Friday with no problems.
Other than a sagging headliner, the interior is nice, a little dirty, cargo area carpet is stained but most should clean up OK. Crappy SONY radio and only one speaker works.
I discovered while flushing the cooling system that the brush bar's only mount is where it is welded to the lower radiator support. Another creative piece of work!
Other than that it drives great! My new parts purchases are split between Advance & SUMMIT. Within 20 Miles there are 15+ ZJ's in JY's! Even a ORVIS!
I'll post newer pics soon. These were from the day I brought it home.
Last edited by PeteNnewburg; 01-28-2013 at 08:14 PM..
New tires on "new" wheels. Yes, I like white letter tires on some vehicles. I have the center caps for the wheels. I've had 7+ sets of the Wally World Goodyears on various vehicles. I have only had to replace 2 before they were used up. One due to a cut sidewall, one due to a broken belt. Both were replaced without issue. The tire with the cut sidewall had 36,000 miles on it, the prorated wear, etc .. etc .. New tire cost $17 mounted and Balanced. Just be sure to loosen and retorque your lug nuts every time you get them rotated! Some of those people get a little goofy with a impact wrench.
Possibly a 2" BB at some point, my work/ play truck has a 4" Rancho lift, 32's .. etc.. My biggest priority is getting the ZJ to being as reliable as possible. The 2" BB & wider tires would be done if we decide to take it on fishing trips or to the beach for surf fishing.
Having said that I have only had one "car" that I left entirely stock in 35 yrs of driving, a 89 Taurus LX Wagon. But it had the optional 3.8 engine. One icey day my wife took it off roading, over a guard rail and down a steep hill into a flooded pasture, no injuries to my wife, Taurus was toast. She was so upset she said I could replace it with what ever I wanted, .
I came home a week later with the first of many Fox Mustangs, that one was a 1986 GT, T-top, 347ci, mass air, roll bar, 5-spd ... I bought her a new 2001 Explorer, which she still has, now @ 230,000 +!
I ordered via Summit Racing; LH CV Joint/ axle shaft with boot, LH hub assembly, Flex-lite clutch fan, rear MOOG 1310 u-joints-L&R motor mounts and trans mount. I got free shipping & handling, .. because I also ordered the CURT CHT-S5260 T-Harness (3/4 prong wiring trailer harness) . $274.xx I already have the RH hub to install, the 36mm impact Sunex Spindle socket has arrived (ebay) for a weekend project. I'll wait to do the mounts until I get the new oil pan gasket, oil pump, timing cover gasket & seal.
Purchased some good used parts this week, rear trailer hitch, 99+ intake, OE rear sway bar and a set of 703 injectors. I also purchased new Complete Prothane bushing kit, injector rebuild kits, trans filter, Felpro trans pan gasket, 6 quarts Castrol ATF+4, 2 quarts lucas synthetic 75-90 diff oil and a new O-Ring kit for the oil filter adapter. I purchsed new bolts and nuts for the hitch install along with a 1.5" x 1/4" x 36" to make the mounting tabs for the hitch.
I replaced the RH front hub and lubed the front suspension with Valvoline synthetic grease.
I need to cut off the brush bar to start front bushing installation.
Blew out the Left CV joint today, watched a ball bearing roll across the street after a few loud bangs. I made it home but the Park setting in the trans does'nt work!? Had to put wheel chocks behind it to hold it in driveway. Yeah, parking brake doesn't work either. I do have a new CV joint & hub so time to get busy!
On a brighter note, I got a nice RH front fender, correct color, for $20. I also got a '96 style header panel, brand new bumper cover w/ fog light holes and the Laredo bump strip, nice battery box with restorable battery hold down and bolts and some extra lights. Overhead console from a 95 Orvis, nice console to replace boken console and a 242 TC bezel.
I finished up the hub & CV joint work, got the front sway bar end links changed and cut off the brush bar, it had been welded on. I gave her a bath and took her out to "60 mph air" dry. Even with just the links changed it handles better!! No more grinding hub or CV joint rattles, runs very quiet!
Hopefully the last remaining parts will be in Friday to start the upgrade to the broken and tattered fascia. The welded on brush bar is already off. Because of the way it was installed, a minor fender bender damaged the head lights, LH front fender, header panel, bumper cover, radiator support and more!
In time I will install a K.O.R. rad support, but for now the budget allows for the fascia repair. I have a decent used '96 header panel, new head lights, new '96 black grill, good used set of OE fog lights, a used fog/auto/ head light switch, new '96 bumper cover and good used turn & parking lights. I have new bumper rivets & my collection of metric "U" nuts and bolts. I will obviously do a total relamp at the same time. I may need to get the corner bracket & retaining pin.
I'll post B&A pics as well as the process.
I removed the old grill/ lights/ bumper and header panel. Started clean up on the rust stained (from over heating) sheet metal. RH bumper bracket damaged, but repairable. I found the OE fog light harness plug-in along the horn wiring harness.
I have the same year and model. fits 30x9.5x15 with no lifting. I think I may need to change my fan clutch too. I never paid attention to the fact that it always ran. What is better keep the fan clutch or switch to one of the lightweight flex fans?