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92 yj build

120K views 611 replies 83 participants last post by  bigsquat 
#1 ·
Well i finally think i have most of the parts and tools to start upgrading the yj. The plan is to change the gearing from 3.54 to 4.10,add aussies front and back.,replace the dana 35 with a 44,slipyoke eliminator,home made posilock,Add another 2" off lift to the existing 4" lift with 6" booms and lowering the spring perches 2".Also going to install a hand throttle,replace the dana 30 wheel joints ,use a cut down front driveline from a xj for the rear of the yj.i need to repaint at least the right front fender or maybe the whole jeep.Ill try to post pics as i go.
 

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#4 ·
i was almost thinking off doing it but the u joints would go in about a week!
 
#5 · (Edited)
there is a carrier brake at 3.73, so with 4.10 u have to get different carriers
 
#7 ·
there is a carrier brack at 3.73, so with 4.10 u have to get different carriers
Sorry for stepping on your thread, but...
I just bought an Aussie Locker for my D30 and I want to install 4:10's. Right now it has 3.55's. Do I need a new carrier?
 
#6 ·
here is a pic of the xj i found the 44 in
 

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#8 ·
I should show before and after pics of the yj, so here goes
 

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#9 · (Edited)
yes you do, you can go up to 3.54 only with that carrier ,at least thats what ive been told. . i got mine used for $40 and im using all the bearings and shims from the old carrier. i did buy new seals and have extra shims.get a spare set of carrier bearings and grind the center out so they slip on for easy set up. then just put the other bearings on. this saves a lot of time
 
#10 ·
Should be able to get all that done in an afternoon.
:laugh:
 
#11 ·
lol, is spent a month rounding up parts and tools. im not aS fast as i use to be.
 
#12 ·
do the booms look familiar brandon?
 
#18 ·
Yeah, and thanks :thumbsup:
There's surface rust on them though, is that something that happened while at your place or are those fingerprints of mine that oxidized in transit?
 
#13 · (Edited)
I could of gotten 4.10 gears on the old 44 but it is a limited slip so i need an open carrier for it also.
 

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#14 ·
I got the shock mounts and the perches ground off the 44.Now to start the ring and pinion install today.
 

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#15 ·
I see from your pics you are going with the Napa cable for your home made posi lock. Do yourself a favor when you drill through the vac motor cover to install your cable try to drill as low on the part as you can so the cable is close to the top of the shaft that the shift fork rides on. This will make it easier to move on the shaft. I just did mine and learned that the hard way. Also test operation many times before you lock the cable stops down
 
#16 · (Edited)
thanks r1627, ill do that. by the way i want to keep the water out so im going to seal the cable entrance with silicone but the cable isnt very waterproof it self. What do i do? maybe slide some tubing over it a few feet up?
 
#19 ·
You need a bigger table.
 
#20 ·
i wish i had a bigger garage! trying to install all this stuff in the gravel on a slope wont be fun. and we are getting our first rain of the season today.
 
#21 ·
the rust was on them when i opened the box. u must have just ate taco's.
 
#23 ·
Nope, haven't had tacos in quite a while.
Interesting though, it looks like fingerprints from the pictures. I think I'm going to have to start oiling them as I pack them.
Thanks for inadvertantly bringing that to my attention.
 
#24 · (Edited)
now that i have your prints i think ill enter it into the criminal justice system. i went out to start working on the 44 then the wife showed up and it seems that spiltting wood was on the new agenda! maybe the jeep will seem some personal time tonight.
 
#26 ·
#27 ·
Aurorajeep , ilove the posilock write up.thanks . do you get any water in through the cable sheath? you can silicone the cable entrance but the rest of the cable isn't weather proof. and my tires are going to be 33" like i have on it now but with an aggressive tread.
 
#28 ·
well i did the honey do list and got back to the jeep. I cleaned the 44 and made a brass punch out of an old king pin that i braised the end and ground down. I installed the pinion races with the correct shims under the big race.My old pinion was a +3 and the new was a 0, so i subtracted .003 from the existing shim pack.If the old pinion was -3 and the new +2 then i would add .005, you want it to add to 0.That was the easy part, to set the pinion preload took forever!!!!!!!I measured the old preload shims and tried that. NO go ,it was to loose. THEN i pulled it apart and took off .005,now to tight! i went back and forth 6 times before i got it.I think i didn't get the races seated all the way at first.,and it threw my calcs out.you got to have everything completely clean or a spec of dirt can mess up your readings.By the way do this without the seal installed ,then when u know u got it pull of the yoke and install the seal. You should have 5 to 10 inch pounds of tork. tomorrow the carrier bearings.
 

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#29 ·
here are some more pics
 

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#30 ·
Ok ,i got a couple hours of sleep and going to sneek out to the garage befor the boss gets up.I noticed that the small shims that go behind the front pinion bearing got chewed up. they had the thinest shim against the shaft and its not a very big surface area there. i think that its better to put the thickest shim there to prevent it from being squeezed out. BY THE WAY IM NOT BY ANY MEANS AN EXPERT ON ANYTHING , U GUYS PLEASE CHECK OUT ALL THE ADVICE I GIVE. I HAVE ONLY INVENTED OR STOLE IDEAS FROM YOU GUYS. (NO FORMAL TRAINING)ill try to do anything, mainly because im to cheep to pay someone.
 
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