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Unread 03-14-2015, 10:43 AM   #1
Gregorri
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 17
84 CJ7 Wheeler

So I started with a 84 cj7. Stripped it right down to the frame. Bent 3/16" plate into C channel, cut out the rot and repaired. Found a pair of scout 44 axles had them geared to 4.88, put an assie locker in the rear, open still in the front. Had a 350 built with a sm465 tranny mated to a dana 300 case. This past winter I installed 4" bds springs. Had some drive shaft angle problems so I extended the frame 10" and pushed the rear axle back. Currently looking into a high steer kit for front. Whats everyone think about the knuckles from Reid Racing?

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Unread 03-14-2015, 10:49 AM   #2
Gregorri
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ontario Canada
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Some pictures along the way
screenshot_2015-03-06-20-13-12-1_1426351643624.jpg   screenshot_2015-03-06-20-13-57-1_1426351676715.jpg   screenshot_2015-03-06-20-26-58-1_1426351701899.jpg   screenshot_2015-03-06-20-27-32-1_1426351738306.jpg  
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Unread 03-14-2015, 10:56 AM   #3
Gregorri
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1973 CJ5 
 
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How it sits now. Getting ready tilt front pinion and get steering sorted out.
20150308_170838-1_1426351935863.jpg  
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Unread 03-15-2015, 10:48 AM   #4
y2k-fxst
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1964 CJ6 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: North English, Iowa
Posts: 310
This going to be a street-able build or strict off-road?

If you are going to run it on the street you will run into very poor handling with the Scout front axle. The Scout axle has no built in caster to begin with, let alone if you raise the pinion for better drive shaft angles. You will end up with negative caster and it will wonder more than a drunk staggering home from the bar. For decent handling you need around 6 degrees of positive caster with stock size tires, for larger tires say 36" or larger you may want 8-10 degrees of positive camber.

The only way to tilt-up the pinion and maintain decent caster is to cut the inner-C's off and rotate them, Something that needs done with the Scout axles even if the pinion angle is not changed.

Also what size tires are you planning on running with the Dana 44 axles? Anything over 35" is iffy, especially with a healthy motor.
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Unread 03-15-2015, 07:06 PM   #5
Gregorri
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 17
Already have them cut off spare axle. Was planning on 6 degrees positive. Jeep will be road licensed but will never see more than 10 or 15 mile drives. Tires are 39.5", been running them past dozen times out. Knock on wood no broken shafts. Drive shafts are made by Tatoons with built in cv joint. Made new perches and u bolt plates for front axle today. Looking into high steer kits. Buying the reid racing knuckles, I have to change my spindle to either chevy or ford from scout. Any advantages to either one?
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Unread 03-15-2015, 07:11 PM   #6
y2k-fxst
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With 39.5's you might want to consider 8 degrees positive caster. It's not the inner shafts that seem to be the problem, usually it is from the weak outer housing that gets bent.
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Unread 03-16-2015, 07:42 AM   #7
Gregorri
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Rear axle is sleeved with 3" schedule 40. Front axle will be trussed. Im a licensed sheet metal worker as well as a ticketed welder so metal work is no problem.
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Unread 03-17-2015, 02:04 AM   #8
Autophysn
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Interesting, Does that really help or work? When you say Schedule 40, you mean PVC pipe?
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Unread 03-17-2015, 10:48 AM   #9
Gregorri
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Its 3" i.d. steel pipe with .250" wall thickness. Makes the axle housing about a 1/2" thick now. I'll take a picture after work. Front perches done ready to weld. Next is setting the caster angle for steering.
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Unread 03-17-2015, 07:25 PM   #10
Gregorri
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Time to get perches welded and get steering sorted out
20150317_205530_1426641612014.jpg   20150317_205557_1426641680711.jpg  
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Unread 03-18-2015, 07:00 PM   #11
y2k-fxst
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autophysn View Post
Interesting, Does that really help or work? When you say Schedule 40, you mean PVC pipe?
Schedule 40 was used long time before PVC came into effect. Black pipe is available in schedule 5, 10, 20, standard, 40, 60, XH, 80, 100, 120, 140, 160, and XXH. All refers to pipe wall thickness, pipe ID remains the same so the heavier the schedule the larger the OD.
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I own a JEEP and a Harley, and some people still can't figure out why I'm always broke!
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