I've been enjoying reading everyone else's builds, thought I would throw mine up here. I bought this Jeep about 10 yrs ago. PO had the AMC 360, a 3" BL and a 4" Skyjacker lift on 33s. Rode like a go cart the springs were so stiff.
I had the 360 built. It now puts out 325hp and 400ft/ lbs
Going to weld some mounting tabs to the front of the shock hoops right behind the marker lamps. These will line up with the bolts that attach the fender to the grill. This will lock the entire front en together.
pssssttt..pppsssssttt....hey slow down a bit your making me look bad...lol......no but seriously nice work dude!!!! I just wish all the work im doing right now was on my big rig not my daily....
pssssttt..pppsssssttt....hey slow down a bit your making me look bad...lol......no but seriously nice work dude!!!! I just wish all the work im doing right now was on my big rig not my daily....
Why so much real estate up front cant you push your steering box back and and give yourself some crossover steering and a way better approach angle. Whats the benefit of doing links if you still have the departure angle of a leaf sprung rig. Im not meaning to criticize nor are those my intentions just giving some suggestions.
Why so much real estate up front cant you push your steering box back and and give yourself some crossover steering and a way better approach angle. Whats the benefit of doing links if you still have the departure angle of a leaf sprung rig. Im not meaning to criticize nor are those my intentions just giving some suggestions.
I pushed my axle forward by about 6" to get it in front of the engine for better weight distribution lcog. I am staying with a hydro asst because I drive on the road a lot and my wife also drives it. I already had the CJ Saginaw PSC box so it was the obvious choice. I could replace it with a JK style box but it wouldn't fit w the radiator. I am keeping it as short as possible but there are always trade offs. My top priority was to have a stable, safe dual sport rig that I could take my family camping in. Approach angle suffered, but full hydro is not an option for this jeep.
Im not saying you have to go full hydro, cant the box be pushed back farther or is it into the radiator?? Maybe the picture makes it look worse than it is You could also go with an astro box its a forward throw box like the jk but way way cheaper. I just think you would benefit from not having so much frame sticking out in front of your grill and your drag link sticking so far out in front
Im not saying you have to go full hydro, cant the box be pushed back farther or is it into the radiator?? Maybe the picture makes it look worse than it is You could also go with an astro box its a forward throw box like the jk but way way cheaper. I just think you would benefit from not having so much frame sticking out in front of your grill and your drag link sticking so far out in front
The current box is as far bak as possible. I actually had to move the tie rod b/c it was hitting the uber thick BTF diff cover. I would consider the Astro/ JK style box, but there is just no room. The bottom of the radiator is pushed forward to clear the diff. The grill was gutted. There is less than an inch between the rad and front o the grill. I'm already cutting the front of the grill to make room for the PS hoses. If there was room for the box, not sure I could mount it to the frame there b/c of all the material I had to remove to clear the tie rod at full stuff. The shock hoop and extra gusset/ fish plates should reinforce that area for what I need. Thanks for the comments. Ill take all I can get.
Im not saying you have to go full hydro, cant the box be pushed back farther or is it into the radiator?? Maybe the picture makes it look worse than it is You could also go with an astro box its a forward throw box like the jk but way way cheaper. I just think you would benefit from not having so much frame sticking out in front of your grill and your drag link sticking so far out in front
ok here comes my 2 cents...lol first off let me start by saying you know I think your build is sweet, but what did you use to cut those fenders? your bowie knife???? no wait I know a hack saw...lol I don't use anything but my angle grinder for cutting even cut 2 6"round hole in the 1/8" plate for dsh in the big dj...with a little practice you can make much cleaner sweeter cuts..now I do have a plasma but its broken at the moment so really its just a big metal box...second im assuming or guessing that the pics are not at ride height so maybe your approach isn't as bad as other due is saying but I can understand his point tho all the traction and gearing in the world wont do a thing if your framed or diffed...I have boocoos of experience in this category...lol...I remember this one hole/obstacle, and there was this tree that could move. no matter what line I took to try and get out that tree ended up right in front of me..tore my truck to heck and back after about 30min I said f*** this and whipped out my handy dandy chainsaw and well off we went...moral of story if I could have gotten my bumper up over the side where I was trying to get out that tree would still be alive..lets bow our head for the fallen...just out of curiosity are you planning to write up a budget page on the costs of the materials I would like to see approx. cost for the frame and premade mounts tabs towers etc..?...I could just go virtual shopping and do the math my self but im lazy..
ok here comes my 2 cents...lol first off let me start by saying you know I think your build is sweet, but what did you use to cut those fenders? your bowie knife???? no wait I know a hack saw...lol I don't use anything but my angle grinder for cutting even cut 2 6"round hole in the 1/8" plate for dsh in the big dj...with a little practice you can make much cleaner sweeter cuts..now I do have a plasma but its broken at the moment so really its just a big metal box...second im assuming or guessing that the pics are not at ride height so maybe your approach isn't as bad as other due is saying but I can understand his point tho all the traction and gearing in the world wont do a thing if your framed or diffed...I have boocoos of experience in this category...lol...I remember this one hole/obstacle, and there was this tree that could move. no matter what line I took to try and get out that tree ended up right in front of me..tore my truck to heck and back after about 30min I said f*** this and whipped out my handy dandy chainsaw and well off we went...moral of story if I could have gotten my bumper up over the side where I was trying to get out that tree would still be alive..lets bow our head for the fallen...just out of curiosity are you planning to write up a budget page on the costs of the materials I would like to see approx. cost for the frame and premade mounts tabs towers etc..?...I could just go virtual shopping and do the math my self but im lazy..
Lmfao! I think I just got hammered by the guy that used a keg as jack stand. Lol. For the record, I used a plasma to cut the fenders and no, that is not how they will stay. Just needed to get enough room to clear the tires while it is sitting on the bumps. Which brings me to the original issue. Yes the approach angle is better at ride height but not ideal. Should be fine for clearing speed bump at the local mall. As far as cost of materials, I try not to add things up. If my wife ever finds out, I'm in deep S@@@!
I think 170 for the 40' of 2"x3", 120 for the BTF front shock towers, 100 in misc tabs and around 300 for GenRight rear shock mounts and transmission mount. So with welding / grinding supplies, misc plate for fish plates/ gussets and I still have to make front and rear bumpers, I'll be close to grand for the frame and suspension mounts. I didn't need to see that. It's a lot easier to digest when you just spend a hundred here and a hundred there.
I love the clean looks o the Walker Evans CJ buggy built by Campbell Ent. So I went with a basic 2" tube up front and the 1.75" BTF grill hoop. This pic is at full compression. You can see by the shadow that the bumper isn't real crazy out front. I plan on running 4" of up travel so the approach angle should be decent
Took my old winch plate and cut it down to fit as low as possible. Got lucky, the winch just barely fits between the passenger side frame and the steering box. Any thoughts on how to tie it into the driver side frame.
Gusset plate for the driver side frame rail. Ties in with the shock hoop and grill hoop. Brought it forward to reinforce the steering box mount. Cut some holes in it to add to the weld surface.
Time to start putting the back end together. As I said before, couldn't find a deal on a rear tub section, so I'm going to make my own panels to go in. I plan on covering most of the work with corner armor and the belt rails for the soft top
As you can see here, I've got the inner sections done. The rear shock towers come into passenger compartment a little. If you look under the floor section, there is a 4" gap down to the rear section of frame. I will raise that section of frame since a fuel cell will go in behind the rear seat.
For someone who hates sheet metal work, I'm pretty proud of making this side panel. I clamped the flat sheet between two pieces of angle and beat it with a rubber mallet. Where I needed to make a really sharp bend, I scored it with a cut off wheel on a 4.5" grinder, then went back an welded up the score and ground it flush. Should have spent the money on another tub. Lol
lookin good bruh..I got jack and squat done today...no wait I did get the big dj cleaned out and no longer a storage area for parts for little dj...lol...
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