I've been enjoying reading everyone else's builds, thought I would throw mine up here. I bought this Jeep about 10 yrs ago. PO had the AMC 360, a 3" BL and a 4" Skyjacker lift on 33s. Rode like a go cart the springs were so stiff.
I had the 360 built. It now puts out 325hp and 400ft/ lbs
Gotta give a huge shout out to Art. He was kind enough to help out a fellow keeper in need. He took the time to stop by my friends house to verify the damage to my engine. Looks like I will be making a trip back to Pheonix to drag my Jeep home.
Thanks Art, I really appreciate the help.
Gotta give a huge shout out to Art. He was kind enough to help out a fellow keeper in need. He took the time to stop by my friends house to verify the damage to my engine. Looks like I will be making a trip back to Pheonix to drag my Jeep home. Thanks Art, I really appreciate the help.
The the cam gear is toast. Usually this happens b/c the cam and distributor gears are not matched. AMC used 3 different pitches for their cam/ dis gears. Why it waited 10,000 miles to do it I don't know?
Looks like a full rebuild is I in my future. I will do it this time unless my engine builder warrantees it.
Seems to me the camshaft gear wasn't properly case hardened. It wiped it out, but the gear on the dsitributor looked like new. Your welcome was only a 20 mile detour. Your bud has a very nice place there
Seems to me the camshaft gear wasn't properly case hardened. It wiped it out, but the gear on the dsitributor looked like new. Your welcome was only a 20 mile detour. Your bud has a very nice place there
Does anyone have any recommendations on what to do when rebuilding an AMC 360. Especially where oiling is concerned. I want to build it and forget it. I will source a matching cam and distributor gear from BullTear. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
Here is something to consider, instead of staying old school and true to the Jeeping roots, stick a fuel injected later engine in it. Bit more work from the start, but a lot less hassle in the long run, no more off camberor steep incline stuttering , stalling and smoking. Less oiling issues from a worn out oilpump/ timing cover. Cheaper readily available part. Just something to consider, Chevy stuff is cheap or Chrysler or Ford, pick what works for ya, might make you happier in the long run. Or take a week of, head to AZ with acam and a bunch of gaskets, fix it there, enjoy some good wheeling and call it good. The cam gear stripping didn't hurt your engine. Change the cam, flush the engine with some diesel, run it a bit to break in the cam, change the oil and go do some fun AZ wheeling, you are only 25-30 miles away from some cool wheeling. That would be the route I would take for the time being
Here is something to consider, instead of staying old school and true to the Jeeping roots, stick a fuel injected later engine in it. Bit more work from the start, but a lot less hassle in the long run, no more off camberor steep incline stuttering , stalling and smoking. Less oiling issues from a worn out oilpump/ timing cover. Cheaper readily available part. Just something to consider, Chevy stuff is cheap or Chrysler or Ford, pick what works for ya, might make you happier in the long run. Or take a week of, head to AZ with acam and a bunch of gaskets, fix it there, enjoy some good wheeling and call it good. The cam gear stripping didn't hurt your engine. Change the cam, flush the engine with some diesel, run it a bit to break in the cam, change the oil and go do some fun AZ wheeling, you are only 25-30 miles away from some cool wheeling. That would be the route I would take for the time being
I completely agree that it would be easier and cheaper long term to put in a Chevy engine. However, I'm too hard headed to do that. I do plan on swapping out the carb for a F.A.S.T. Fuel injection system. I wish I had the time to go out, fix it, wheel it and drag it home but the trip out and the Hammers already ate up most of my time. I just got back from Switzerland for work and I am going somewhere for my Moms 75th this summer.
Also, I can't figure out why this would happen after 10k trouble free miles. If it was a an oiling problem or mismatched gears, it should have happened within the first 1k. Lastly, I believe that the oil travels from the pump, trough the cam/ timing gear and then to the rest of the engine. If this is correct, then I can't be sure how far the metal has traveled.
Case hardening is what keeps the cam gear from wearing, if it's to soft it will wear the gear slowly but steadily, till it quits running.
Since the oil in the engine valley will flush down over that part of the cam shaft, most of the fine metal should have filtered out. Pull the oilpan and look at a few of the rod and main bearings, they look good I would not worry about damage.
I am recruiting friends for the road trip. Let me know if anyone is dumb enough to ride along. Hell, if I can drive 700 miles in a day in the CJ, shouldn't be a problem in the Tundra. My wife is pissed about the 1k in gas round trip and the engine work though. Haven't told her about the fuel injection. Might have to keep that a secret.
Thanks buddy. Wish your grill gaurs had been on there.
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