From this to this, the front metal cloak fenders run 45 degrease as well as my custom smitybuilt corner guards, they keep the tire almost centered because of the 7 inch stretch and gives it a clean matching look
Since you will be able to see into my rear fender well, more than when it was stock there was some eye sores that needed to be removed. I plan to paint inside the fender wells yellow to give it a clean body color match.
I debated on removing this all together but I thought that I may need it with all the corner guards weight bolted to the side fender.
(Note that my body is not in the correct position, it's slid back for better access)
AMC360. I had a low compression cylinder, 95lbs the other 7 were 137-145 so I had some hope.
Christine and I pulled the heads, I sat the heads on a board so that I could see the base of the heads. I added water to the intake and the exhaust ports, the low cylinders intake and exhaust leaked instantly.
About 1/2 of the valves leaked water as well. Some one drop a minute, some 1 drop every 10 seconds or so, and 2 flowed out like a stream.
Then I used one harbor freight part number 96826 my carbide bit set for steel and aluminum. (I have a edlebrock performer intake) I port matched my intake and exhaust.
I did not do as good a job as power block for sure, but for my jeep its fine. Even though my work doesn't look the best, It's amazing how much metal I removed in a few places. Some as much a 1/8 of an inch was removed.
I chose not to mess with the combustion chamber. For fear of messing up a valve seat.
The steel was easier to work with, but took allot longer. The aluminum was harder to work with but was done in 30 minutes. The performer intake to My surprise needed a good bit of porting to match up well.
It was actually hard work, my back got real sore and I was covered in metal and dust from head to toe. I received at least one metal splinter and it took me about 4-5 hours. Eye and ear protection is a must for the die grinder.