So I ended up taking my links to a fab shop 30 minutes away and got them cleaned out with a tap and the new johnnys went in great. Drove to Morris Mountain without any problems but broke on the first trail. An ear snapped off my steering box and caused the other 2 bolts to break and ripped my steering box off. I should of got on making that steering box brace sooner. I was looking for a waggy box to drill out the frame for that 4th bolt hole but I have an extra cherokee steering box sitting in our garage and I'm flat broke so that one will be going on. My plan is to drill out the tabs on the box and tap them for 1/2" bolts and then make the box brace and I hope that will be plenty strong enough. If I encounter any problems or get some more money I want to plate the frame rails and drill out the frame for the 4th bolt hole and get a waggy box.
Heres a few pictures from our group from RBD. I have pictures of the steering box and breakage but there at home. Will be fixing the Jeep later after class and will get them uploaded.
So my transmission overheated twice and burnt the fluid up in Harlan on the trip so when I got back I dropped the pan and changed the filter to inspect the fluid and the trans seemed to be pulling weak. I believe it's fried, after changing the fluid the trans will wind out to 3500-4000 rpm in each gear and sometimes not even change. After a couple days of this it now will do the same thing but I feel no difference in power from 1500 rpm to 3500.
So I've been discussing my options with some guys and researching on pirate and I believe I'm gonna be doing a 5 speed swap here in the next month or so. Going to be a long project but need to start accumulating some parts. My two options it seems are an NV3500 which would be cheaper, easier to find, but only rated for 300 ft lbs of torque or the bigger NV4500 which is rated for my motor, but far more expensive and an actual bigger transmission so fitment seems to be a little more of an issue. I know the starter is located on the driverside versus the passenger on these trans but I believe that won't be an issue, some custom header fab can be done if needed. Also have the option of the NV3550 from the 2000+ cherokee and TJ. Not sure if it bolts up to the 5.9 block but the bellhousing is removable so finding one that can wouldn't be an issue. Any input and advice on any part of this swap would be appreciated as I have never really worked with manual trannys so most of this will be a learning experience. I believe I can use the pedal assembly out of a cherokee and the slave cylinder from a TJ or XJ would work with the dodge transmission. Also I believe I will be keeping my 231 with SYE and using that if at all possible. I'm not sure what the output spline count is for the NV3500 or NV4500. I really would like to find a dodge truck with a blown motor or rear end collision and buy the whole truck so I have everything I would need.
Guess I haven't updated this in a while. Got the transmission rebuilt and been doing some routine maintenance to it. Was planning on going to the Shamrock run at Morris Mtn but ended up going to Gulches to save some cash and we didn't have many people going anyways. I smashed the front part of the unibody up pretty good. Going to need to do some nice cutting to get some 2x4 in there for a bumper mount like I was planning.
I replaced my bushings in my IRO trackbar the day before we left for the trip, and this is what the frame end looked like after a day of wheeling. Guess I need to look at going to a heim set up.
Before the trip I changed out worn out shock bushings, ball joints, track bar bushings, and made sure every bolt I could get a wrench on was tight and the Jeep still sounds like everything is loose riding the trails. Every joint in my suspension is either new of recently rebuilt. Running out of ideas on what is making so much noise. The majority of the front end noise is just noise but I can feel something loose in the rear end. Here a few pictures from the trip
Bought one of these guys and it came in the mail the other day. 2" johnny joint machined to press into the upper on the chunk. I'm only running one upper on my radius arms and I have been eating through stock bushings. It's raining now.. hopefully it quits in a few hours. Next week is exam week so that means no class and tons of wrenching time
damn thats a good looking zj i think all grand cherokees should have come from the factory with 5.9 grills. thats a shame about your first zj how exactly did that happen? my brother had a zj that looked exactly like your first one. ended up rolling it though
I was turning left at an intersection with a green light, a big semi truck just drove through the intersection coming the opposite direction. As soon as the truck passed I went to turn left across the intersection and smashed into a minivan that was basically drafting the truck. Failure to yield a right away and 4 points on the insurance for that stupid mistake.
Went to windrock right after classes finished up. Got a few pictures. Spit two caps on the passenger side ujoint and blew the inner shaft on little schoolbus. 3 wheel out of that was fun.
Had to do a 17 point turn on some trail in 3 dig and backed into a tree all pissed off. Tow strap pulled the dented bumper out just fine..
Jeeps under the knife currently. Yesterday I took everything apart and started cutting off my track bar bracket to prep for the frame stiffeners I got from Matt at Moonworks. After I finish welding those up, I am going to be fabbing a new trackbar bracket and will be swapping my frame side bushing on the track bar to a 3/4 hiem. I will also be adding an upper to the passenger side radius arm instead of just running one. Friday I am ordering new tie rods for my rugged ridge steering as well. Hopefully all this should tighten up my front end a lot because now I have almost a complete turn of slop in the steering wheel.
My buddy came over with his 220 and we got the stiffeners that I got from Matt at Moonworks all welded up. They fit up really well. The driver side holes for the motor mounts lined up no problem, and the fitment was great, the only thing that was slightly off was the hole for the upper control arm for the driver side and that was only off by a little over an 1/8" and that was probably my fault with how we aligned them. We started by clamping the center and filling the plug welds, then worked out with the clamps and used a small sledge hammer to form them to the frame. If I had gas for my torch forming them would of been a little easier. The passenger side fit up great. The only thing we did was grind about an 1/8" off the bottom to get a little more weld to the frame.
Sorry for the crappy blurry pic of the driver side.
I think the iro trackbar mount I have will work with a heim and misalignment spacers. Just need to drill it out a little bit. Got my new tie rod ends in for the rugged ridge kit. Gonna slap them in today.
Haven't posted in a while. Had our first club trip of the semester this Friday and Saturday to Gulches. Been having some problems with my tcase linkage popping out of the bracket on the side of the trans tunnel. I drilled a hole in the pin and slid a cotter pin in there and it seemed to hold up alright. I think a cable shifter is in the future unless I can find something cheaper. Stripped out one of the caliper bolts so I helicoiled that it has held up pretty good. Also had to replace the axle seal on the 8.8 the night before we left. Gulches was fun, broke a long side shaft in the 30. I think I need to start looking for something different up front. Found a J20 44 on NC4x4 with 4.56s and a lockright I am trying to get ahold of. Well see what happens. Next project though is a rear bumper and build a sway bar mount off of that, not the most stable driving down the road.
Thanks man, put a lot of work and all my money into it! haha
Beautiful day to be heading to class..
Anyways I think I am going to be pulling the trigger on an antirock soon. I want to mount it in the rear, plan on building a bumper soon and build the mounts off that. My only problem is mounting the links to the rear axle. I have no room to incorporate any tabs next to the shock tabs because of the narrow width of the 8.8. I think I could come up with some new shock mounts that also mounted the swaybar link to it directly behind the shock. I will try to snag a picture of how my rears set up now.
Also Ive been fighting with getting the broken shaft out. Broke at the splines just far enough to not let me get the carrier out. I tried to put a screwdriver through the driver side, slide it past the center pin (which I can't remove to take the locker out, already thought about that) and tap out the shaft but as soon as I started tapping on it it got wedged in there nice and tight... and thats where I left it after deciding I should study for the test I had at 8 this morning. Got to find a narrow crow bar to slide into the axle tube and pull that screw driver out, then I need to find a 1/4" rod long enough to slide past the center pin and try and tap the shaft out with. My only other idea is to pull the whole damn axle out and turn it on its side and slam it against the driveway a few times. Not trying to do that.
Got the shaft out and the carrier too. The bearing on the carrier on the side the shaft broke is all chewed up. Going to be taking it to the 4 wheel center tomorrow and and see if I can get a new one pressed on. Any problems with just putting new bearings on it and putting it right back into the housing? I know there are shims underneath the bearings, if I put those back the same way should I have any problems?
So after looking at the ring gear a little better got a few cracks in it. About 12 of the teeth look like that. Time for a 44 for real now. I keep on hearing from everyone Im wasting money and need to do a 60, but I don't have money to build a rear end to match and think Ill be staying on 35s for a while.