post #1 of Old 02-24-2013, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
Clayton Offroad
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2012 JK with a 3.5" Clayton Long Arm

Last week we brought in this 2012 lime green 2dr JK for a build. It ended up getting a 3.5" Clayton Long Arm kit, 1/4 skid plates, drag link flip kit, 4.88 gears, Tom Woods driveshafts, and Bilstein 5100 series shocks.



























Let us know what you think or if you have any questions on the kit.

Alex
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post #2 of Old 03-07-2013, 10:01 AM
TheBoss
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I have been wondering for awhile about your seemingly exclusive use of square tube control arms. Is there any advantage to these over a round tube? Also your showing the exhaust downpipes being lengthened could you post a photo after it was complete. If you could do a write up on the Tom Woods drive shaft install as I don't recall anyone doing an in depth feature on it yet. Great looking Jeep!
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post #3 of Old 03-11-2013, 08:10 AM
BRay
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I have a 2012 and I'm looking for a lift. Your is on my list but I have some questions.
With your lift kit the rear control arm mounts bolt to the frame rails is so do you need to drill the mounting holes and what preveents the frame from being squished?
I see the crossmember has been changed and appears to be required. Does this require modifying the exhaust or deleting the exhaust loop on this 3.6 equipped Jeep?
Thanks,
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post #4 of Old 03-11-2013, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoss View Post
I have been wondering for awhile about your seemingly exclusive use of square tube control arms. Is there any advantage to these over a round tube? Also your showing the exhaust downpipes being lengthened could you post a photo after it was complete. If you could do a write up on the Tom Woods drive shaft install as I don't recall anyone doing an in depth feature on it yet. Great looking Jeep!
Hello. Square is structurally a stronger shape, so if you compare the same material, wall thickness and diameter the square is harder to bend. This is also why our lift kits comes with a lifetime warranty against bending or breaking any of our control arms.
On the 2012+ models we use that AFE loop delete on the driver side, and have done it two ways now for the passenger side. You can use a tera or BDS exhaust spacer kit which will space the cross over pipe in order to gain clearance between the driveshaft and the pipe itself. Since its simple for us to weld, in this last install we just welded in a short tube to gain the space we needed.
Not really sure how in depth I can go on the driveshafts, and Im sure the guys at Tom Woods custom driveshafts can probably provide more information. But basically we have figured out what lengths work on each model, and transmission type. So if you order them from us you know they will work with our lift kits. There are a simple bolt in installation. Remove the factory flanges, and install the ones provided by Tom Woods. He sends new hardware and torque settings for the bolts. Once the flanges are installed, simply bolt on the 1310 CV style driveshafts and with our fully adjustable lift kits you can properly set the angles for this CV style driveshaft and you are all set.
Our lift kit instructions are online under Tech, and this might also add some information you are looking for.

Feel free to email us, or post up any other questions.

Adam
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post #5 of Old 03-11-2013, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
Clayton Offroad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRay View Post
I have a 2012 and I'm looking for a lift. Your is on my list but I have some questions.
With your lift kit the rear control arm mounts bolt to the frame rails is so do you need to drill the mounting holes and what preveents the frame from being squished?
I see the crossmember has been changed and appears to be required. Does this require modifying the exhaust or deleting the exhaust loop on this 3.6 equipped Jeep?
Thanks,
Our brackets are unique because of the pem brackets which clamp them together which means you do not have to worry about the frame getting squished. You do NOT go through both walls for the frame. The pem brackets slide into the frame, so that all the clamping force is on the actual frame itself instead of trying to clamp it together. Check out the instructions for a few pictures of how this works, and let us know if you have any questions.
Our long arm systems come with a new 3 piece cross member. Bolts into the factory location, and can be welded for additional strength. New grade 8 hardware is supplied along with plates to properly secure the cross member to the OE frame mounts. On 07-09 models no exhaust mod is necessary. On 10-11s the passenger side cat needs to be moved about 1" up, and on 12+ models you will need a AFE loop delete kit, and an exhaust spacer to push the cross over pipe closer to the cross members like they are in the 07-11 models.

Check out our instructions here.

http://claytonoffroad.com/tech.htm

And let us know if you have any other questions.

Adam
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post #6 of Old 03-11-2013, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a link to another 2012+ JK we did a few months ago. Basically the same as above but we took more pictures.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...9207675&type=3

Adam
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post #7 of Old 04-27-2013, 09:08 AM
BRay
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Spoke to a couple of you Clayton on the phone recently. Thanks for your time and information on your product. Your 2012 long arm instructions say to use a 4.5" backspacing on the wheel. With a 35" tire on a 4.25" or 4.5" backspace will the tire clear the lower control arm without making contact turned on a full stuff of the tire?

2012 Jeep JK Rubicon
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post #8 of Old 05-08-2013, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRay View Post
Spoke to a couple of you Clayton on the phone recently. Thanks for your time and information on your product. Your 2012 long arm instructions say to use a 4.5" backspacing on the wheel. With a 35" tire on a 4.25" or 4.5" backspace will the tire clear the lower control arm without making contact turned on a full stuff of the tire?
Sorry for a little delay here, but a 4.5 inch BS should clear that control arm.



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