FLAT FENDER TJ WRITEUP
· Dremel heavy duty (fiberglass) cutting wheels (I went through about 10)
· Dremel Metal grinding attachment
· Heavy Duty Drill w/misc bits
· 3”-3.25” Hole Saw
· masking tape
· pair of ’72 to 76 CJ turn signals
· torx bits, socket set, vise grips, Phillips screwdriver, and other misc tools
· paint and primer
· tube of silicone sealant
· electrical connectors
· liquid nail
· paint thinner
· door Edging
· SAFTEY GOGGLES!
Varies depending on the equipment you have. My cost was the following:
· Lights 40$
· Fiberglass cutting wheels 12$
· 3” Hole Saw 10$
1. Remove factory parking lights and turn signals from fenders. You can either A) Cut the wires and wire up with anti-vibration connectors as I did or B) wire up the connectors that go into the CJ receptacles (need to be purchased separately and I don’t know where to find them)
2. Partially remove fender flare from fender.
3. Mark line to be cut using masking tape. Follow the line made by the top of the stock parking light. (This is to your discretion)
4. Remove the fender bolts that attach the fender to the grill. Place something in between to spread out the two pieces (I used a Rubber Dog Bone!) Begin cutting on high speed and ensure that you take your time allowing the fiberglass wheel to cool down as you cut.
5. Cut support that runs parallel to the front fenders. Try to keep the same line as the fender to leave as much support as possible, but try to hide the support behind the already cut fender. Be careful not to cut into the grill (hence the spreader)
6. Reattach the plastic flare.
7. Mask the flare along same line as fender. Again cutting the side of the fender is to be at your discretion. I left as much on as possible to cut down on the mud slinging. Begin cutting the fender flare. NOTE: Ensure you cut a LOWEST speed so as not to melt too much plastic, it gets hot and messy. Take your time. Sand the edges of the flares down to make them look smooth.
8. Sand, primer and paint to prevent rusting on the exposed metal edges. Place door edging attached with liquid nail or a similar adhesive to the edges for dressing purposes.
9. Mark location for parking lights on the grill. Using 3"-3.25" hole saw, cut grill. I had to make small rectangular notch using a Dremel at the top of the hole for the lights to slide in. (if you use a 3” saw you WILL have to enlarge the hole with the Dremel.
10. Remove CJ parking light lens and use 3 outside holes as template for screw mounting location. Drill hole slightly smaller than screws that hold lens to parking light assembly.
11. Feed wires through 3" hole out bottom of grill for connection.
12. Wire Lights (see wiring code below)
13. Mount parking light assembly to grill.
The CJ Lights Come with a three-wire connector (Red, Blue, Black) the blue is for side parking lights which you will no longer have (so check your local laws) it hooks into the red connector and the black connector is separate.
Red = Parking lights
Black = Turn Signals
Blue = Side Marker (Not used/Cut off)
The signals ground to the housing so the ground will be attained when mounted to the grill.
The TJ Harness I cut. It has three wires per side (five if you count the side marker wires) I cut the side marker wires completely off to where they tie into the main harness leaving me with three wires per side:
Black/Yellow = Parking Lights
Tan (L) Gray(R)= Turn Signals
Black = Ground (Not used)
The red wire from the CJ light goes to the Black wire with the yellow
stripe on the TJ harness and the black wire from the CJ light goes to
the Gray wire (drivers side) and Tan wire (passenger side) on the TJ
harness. They will not work properly until mounted to the grill
completing the ground so you can't test them while they are hanging out
of the vehicle.
I cut these wires completely and soldered them together inside twist connectors, then I sealed them with silicone gasket to seal them from the elements. The way you wire is up to you using the above wiring description.