post #76 of Old 05-16-2012, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
Jankoid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley
After the fun I had adjusting my pinion , I wish I had adjustable uppers . Though your still going to need to adjust the lowers to keep the wheel centered .
Should be okay considering I'm at stock height. I'll be getting lowers for it as soon as I redo the suspension on my LJ.

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post #77 of Old 05-17-2012, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Jankoid View Post
Should be okay considering I'm at stock height. I'll be getting lowers for it as soon as I redo the suspension on my LJ.
Hopefully it wont roll too far forwards on you . I wonder if the additional strength of the new uppers will put additional stress on the stock lowers ?

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post #78 of Old 05-18-2012, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley
Hopefully it wont roll too far forwards on you . I wonder if the additional strength of the new uppers will put additional stress on the stock lowers ?
It rolled it back a little, but not enough to make a difference.


I got the arms installed yesterday. It was a total pain I the ***, but worth it in the end. I no longer get vibes at high speeds, though they weren't bad to begin with. Savvy no longer puts wrench flats on their uppers, which makes it a major pain in the *** to adjust them and an even bigger pain to get the jam nuts right. I don't see what the big hype about Savvy is, but whatever.

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post #79 of Old 05-18-2012, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
I wonder if the additional strength of the new uppers will put additional stress on the stock lowers ?
Where's the logic in that?

No wrench flats? WTF. That makes or breaks the difference of being a piece of cake or a PITA.

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post #80 of Old 05-18-2012, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
No wrench flats? WTF. That makes or breaks the difference of being a piece of cake or a PITA.
Yep. I emailed gerald because I thought maybe the arms were wrong or something, but he responded saying they no longer used wrench flats because "people were abusing them." Had I known that when I ordered I would have gone with currie instead.
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post #81 of Old 05-18-2012, 08:08 AM
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Well, now that I think about it--just take a crescent wrench on both jam nuts simultaneously (both will want to rotate the arm the same direction) and give em hell. That will ensure that both are tight AND will ensure that both joints are concentric. Then just rotate the arm back to neutral and you're good to go. I guess the only problem is adjusting the arms. When I installed a set of these for a buddy, I used a jack under the pinion to set the axle where I wanted it and just had one end of the arms bolted up (frame end) with the other end resting inside the bracket. I rotated one so that I could just slip the bolt through and then did the same with the other one. Before you do that, you want the rig at ride height, the axle centered, and the axle square (using the lowers).

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post #82 of Old 05-18-2012, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
Well, now that I think about it--just take a crescent wrench on both jam nuts simultaneously (both will want to rotate the arm the same direction) and give em hell. That will ensure that both are tight AND will ensure that both joints are concentric. Then just rotate the arm back to neutral and you're good to go. I guess the only problem is adjusting the arms. When I installed a set of these for a buddy, I used a jack under the pinion to set the axle where I wanted it and just had one end of the arms bolted up (frame end) with the other end resting inside the bracket. I rotated one so that I could just slip the bolt through and then did the same with the other one. Before you do that, you want the rig at ride height, the axle centered, and the axle square (using the lowers).
I only had one adjustable wrench with me so I had my dad hold the arms with a big pair of channel lock pliers while I tightened each of the jam nuts. Worked out okay, but wrench flats would have made it 100x easier.
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post #83 of Old 05-18-2012, 08:52 AM
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My Rokmen uppers have wrench flats.
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post #84 of Old 05-18-2012, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sgt.Fuzz
My Rokmen uppers have wrench flats.
Where is that double flip-off smiley when you need it?

If savvy carried rokmen arms I would have ordered those instead. I used my TJotM discount to get these arms.
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post #85 of Old 05-18-2012, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Jankoid View Post
. Savvy no longer puts wrench flats on their uppers
The ease of adjustment is what differentiated their arms from others and made them the more logical choice ? I dont feel as bad now having stuck with the JKS arms that were a PITA to adjust .

Quote:
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Where's the logic in that?
It was merely speculation based on the uppers being so much stronger now and possibly putting more load on the lowers . Again just speculation .

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post #86 of Old 05-18-2012, 09:30 AM
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Sure, the uppers are stronger. That has no bearing on the lower arms, though. Just think about what they arms/links are actually doing.

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post #87 of Old 05-18-2012, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley
The ease of adjustment is what differentiated their arms from others and made them the more logical choice ? I dont feel as bad now having stuck with the JKS arms that were a PITA to adjust .

It was merely speculation based on the uppers being so much stronger now and possibly putting more load on the lowers . Again just speculation .
I won't be recommending these arms to anyone, I am highly disappointed in them.

The uppers may be stronger than the lowers but the misalignment of the johnny joints will alleviate that issue, if there even is one.
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post #88 of Old 05-18-2012, 09:53 AM
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Jank, I get the frustration....I'd be a bit frustrated at that as well. But you still got yourself a nice pair of 6061-T6 aluminum threaded arms with JJ's at both ends and that's what matters....and having two forged JJ's = more available adjustment. Much superior to anything with rubber bushings, regardless of the adjustment method. They removed the flats for a reason and it makes sense--cranking on it is way too easy and can cross the threads in the tube if there's too much of a load on the arm. And FYI, I made a LH/RH arm for my front upper link and I didn't put wrench flats in it--with my welding gloves on, I can turn it under load and I locked down the jam nuts exactly as I told you to.

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post #89 of Old 05-18-2012, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Imped
Jank, I get the frustration....I'd be a bit frustrated at that as well. But you still got yourself a nice pair of 6061-T6 aluminum threaded arms with JJ's at both ends and that's what matters....and having two forged JJ's = more available adjustment. Much superior to anything with rubber bushings, regardless of the adjustment method. They removed the flats for a reason and it makes sense--cranking on it is way too easy and can cross the threads in the tube if there's too much of a load on the arm. And FYI, I made a LH/RH arm for my front upper link and I didn't put wrench flats in it--with my welding gloves on, I can turn it under load and I locked down the jam nuts exactly as I told you to.
I understand that they are good arms, and I was going with double johnny joint arms regardless, I'm just peeved that they changed their arms and didn't advertise it. Even the pictures on their website still show them with wrench flats. I didn't get the product I expected.
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post #90 of Old 05-18-2012, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Just scored a Detroit Truetrac for a D30 from the classifieds.
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