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post #31 of Old 10-04-2011, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
Cherokee-at-16
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My latest mod has been getting my passenger front door lock mangled and my radio stolen...




They took the radio but left the Cb sitting right next to it.....retards.....





putting this here for safe keeping. I think I might do this, minus high steer and chevy knuckles.
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=993467


2000 Cherokee Sport Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/2000-xj-build-slow-uneventful-1162913/
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post #32 of Old 10-15-2011, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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1988 wagoneer Dana 44's front and rear. Plans include 4.88's and tnt truss, Lockers if I can find some used and cheap.

2000 Cherokee Sport Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/2000-xj-build-slow-uneventful-1162913/
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post #33 of Old 10-29-2011, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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Started working on the axle yesterday, its slow going with a broken wrist.

Brackets off

Cleaned up a bit.




How do people normally clean of the center section? I used a flap disc on the tubes, but there are tight spaces on the casting.
I plan on pulling and painting the outer knuckles, but don't have a wrench or socket big enough. Haha

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post #34 of Old 11-13-2011, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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So after a year without the first 3 speeds on my Hvac fan, I finally replaced the stupid resistor. $45.73 and 30 minutes later I fixed a problem that I have hated since the beginning but never found the ambition to fix. However now having that low speed is like a god send when its not to hot or not to cold.

I also found out that my rear d44 out of a 88 wagoneer is really out of a 77. This means the housing is offset to the passenger side a little over an inch. I don't know what I am going to do. I think that it would work just fine with an sye and new drive shaft, however I am unsure of this. If it wont work I will most likely be looking for another waggy rear, as the front was correctly out of an 88 so I'm going to use it. I do however want to match bolt patterns, so for now I'm just working on the front.

If your interested in how I found out, after realizing that I don't have snap ring pliers and the bank was closed for veterans day I decided to work on cleaning off the diff covers. I first noticed that one looked slightly different from the other and started to clean them off. I could see the dana stamping on each one with the date clearly shown on the bottom 3-30-77. The other cover was not as easily visible but I could still make out the year which said 87.

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post #35 of Old 11-13-2011, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherokee-at-16 View Post
Started working on the axle yesterday, its slow going with a broken wrist.

Brackets off

Cleaned up a bit.




How do people normally clean of the center section? I used a flap disc on the tubes, but there are tight spaces on the casting.
I plan on pulling and painting the outer knuckles, but don't have a wrench or socket big enough. Haha
looks great, i just started work on my HP 44 and 9'' swap from a 77 f-150.

it gets expensive fast haha

i love the look of waggy 44s under an XJ.
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post #36 of Old 11-13-2011, 05:04 PM
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axles.
Attached Thumbnails
winning.jpg   9''.jpg   axles.jpg  
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post #37 of Old 11-13-2011, 05:05 PM
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not too sure why that first pic is there.
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post #38 of Old 11-13-2011, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back_In_Black View Post
looks great, i just started work on my HP 44 and 9'' swap from a 77 f-150.

it gets expensive fast haha

i love the look of waggy 44s under an XJ.
Thanks, I love the look too. they are wider but not by much. Which makes it a lot easier. It does get expensive but I'm not in a rush to get them in so I can wait for some used lockers and alloy shafts. My real costs will be gears/install and front truss and all new brakes. But I will also be reselling my d30 with cover and one ton steering and my locked 8.25. Will also be picking up some used long arms soon.

I'm still confused whether the offset axle will work. Im pissed that it wasn't matching the other, just makes the saying "to good to be true" true.

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post #39 of Old 11-25-2011, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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So I have reached some problems. It seems that the rear axle might actually be out of a 77 instead of an 87-88 like I was told. I found this out when looking and cleaning off the diff covers. I could clearly read 3-30-77 and then just the 87 on the other cover. This means that the rear housing is offset about and inch towards the passengers side. The shafts are also different lengths confirming this, unless They are supposed to be like that. Does anyone know if this will work or do I need a new d44 that has a centered housing.


Now what I am also worried about is putting the axles back together. I bought them totally disassembled from a guy who I believe knew what he was doing as the bearing caps are marked. So I think I will be able to figure it out based on the markings and sending an email to the seller as he probably knows. But, can anyone explain to me what the different stampings mean on the bearing caps? Two of them say 147 and two say 057. and they all have an 88 stamped on them, which at first got me thinking that maybe just the cover was from the 77 and they both were from 1988. Here are some pictures.
On the left there is a D stamped near the 18, meaning driver maybe? then nothing stamped on the right one.

Om these two there is what looks like a v or check next to the 21 and 20.

Below: The caps with 147 are on the left and 057 on the right. The grooves line up with those in the diffs, seen in pic below.

This is just a pic of the inside of the front diff(88)


So there is were I stand right now. I don't really know were I'm heading just buying and doing the stuff I know needs to be done. If anyone has any answers, links or opinions please share.

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post #40 of Old 11-26-2011, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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I have also been wondering if I am going to have to change my front drive shaft, as the sock one might actually be too long for the d44.

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post #41 of Old 11-26-2011, 03:43 PM
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Dude without lockers, throw some aussies in the d44s, otherwise your putting all this money into the jeep, but your not going to get much further down the trail.

Your DS might be okay, i dont know exact measurements for them though.

Whos doing the welding? If its you what kind of welder do you have?

Waggy 44s, chromo shafts, 4.88s, spools, mid arm 3 link, 35" kevlars

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post #42 of Old 11-26-2011, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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I might make an attempt at doing it myself (Lincoln 140) But if I cant get a good pass even with it dialed in right off the bat, then I know other people with welders to help me out.

Right know I'm working with less and less money, I can put an Aussie in whenever that's not a big deal.

Another thing I have been thinking about is what gears to get and if i should get new carriers. If I keep my old carriers and get thick cut gears I can save about $120. The downside is then if i ever wanted to get a full case locker I would need it for the lower carrier so the thick cut gears would still work, not a huge deal I guess. The other option of course is getting the new carriers and gears to match.

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post #43 of Old 11-27-2011, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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Ordered tnt truss with all necessary brackets and IRO's Hack and tap SYE kit with a rebuild front shaft.

2000 Cherokee Sport Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/2000-xj-build-slow-uneventful-1162913/
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post #44 of Old 12-07-2011, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Parts are finally in and work will begin during my winter break which starts in 9 days. The SYE will hopefully be put on quickly but I don't want to buy shims when I am buying perches for the new axle anyway. So I might just wait until I swap the rear axle in. It will be much easier to think once I am out of school and have the parts in front of me because right now I have so many questions that I just don't have time to research.
Here are some things that have been on my mind:

1. Will my rear axle work? As stated earlier the cover says 77 and the shafts are different lengths so I'm worried its offset to the passenger side. However the reason I didn't realize and am still skeptical is that the pinion looks centered to the eye. But, I will be able to measure in 9 days.

2. Should I get new carriers or just stick with the old ones and get thick cut gears. This way I would save like 120 bucks. I figure if wanted to get a full case locker it would just be the one for the lower numerical break and wouldn't matter. Opinions?

3. I have read of people turning the knuckles on the tubes. Is this something I should be looking into doing or is it not worth it for 4.5-5 inches of lift?

some pics









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post #45 of Old 12-09-2011, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Found this thread that finally set my mind at ease.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f57/w...rences-598962/

Quote:
1986-1991 Grand Wagoneer, front and rear dana 44 (rear dana 44 is mostly centered - just a little offset)
What I have is definenty a mostly centered d44, these things are getting geared in the next month now that im confident that it will work. I haven't been able to get this out of my mind, its like no one on the internet had ever spoken of this offset before I couldn't find an answer. I was freaking out about having the wrong axle.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/r...a-44-a-397243/
good pics of how things go together.

2000 Cherokee Sport Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/2000-xj-build-slow-uneventful-1162913/
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