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Unread 02-05-2014, 10:26 PM   #31
Longview
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killswitch505
thank you that's what I've been reading i will disconnect them before i take it out again
I didn't look to see where you are located, but put some pb blaster on there a few days in advanced if your from the east coast mine were a B to get unbolted.

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Unread 02-05-2014, 10:40 PM   #32
Killswitch505
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Originally Posted by Longview View Post
I didn't look to see where you are located, but put some pb blaster on there a few days in advanced if your from the east coast mine were a B to get unbolted.
Thank you for the advice I'm starting to think I just need to soak this whole heap in PB blaster but the lift kit came with quick disconnects but between the work, weather, brake lines and another project I got going im not sure when im going to take her out for anything but a quick ride to the store
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Unread 02-06-2014, 02:55 AM   #33
The_Goob
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If you only need 1,of those yellow tops I know where you can rehome the other!

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Unread 02-06-2014, 04:51 PM   #34
Killswitch505
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If you only need 1,of those yellow tops I know where you can rehome the other!

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I will keep you in mind bro
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Unread 02-08-2014, 12:05 AM   #35
Killswitch505
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Well I got the brake line extension put on, pulled the sway bar and played a little bit. I'm going to leave the sway bar disconnected for a while I cant say it drives better but it sure makes it fun to drive in a corner
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Unread 02-22-2014, 01:25 AM   #36
Killswitch505
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Work has been crazy I sold my little electrical business and my building with the result being me not being able to do much the last few weeks. I did order an AA SYE I'm going to need some advice with the drive line stuff I will probably hold off on the install until I get my hands on a 8.8. I think I've already found a couple I just need to see what gears I have. I did however find time to install some H4 lights at the time it was an impulse buy I had to spend 40 more bucks to get free shipping I went with the rugged ridge kit

Driver side is the sealed beam and the passenger side is the H4








Wish I would have gotten better before pics didn't really think about it as far as an upgrade I don't think it could have gotten any easier and the results were night and day (sorry for the pun) I'm also going to have to adjust the drivers side a little bit
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Unread 02-22-2014, 06:01 AM   #37
Endless381
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I've got a 93 yj with a 5.5 SOA lift without a sye on 33's. Whatever lift you go with just do a T-case drop its ALOT cheaper then a sye/w driveshaft
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Unread 02-22-2014, 06:53 AM   #38
fishadventure
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Originally Posted by Killswitch505 View Post
...the window are really hazy and the front door skin windows are all zip-tied permanently shut. i'm not sure if a whole new top is going to be needed. is there an easy way to get the haze out of the vinyl windows?...
I just breezed through page one of this thread and didn't catch a response to this point.

Rinse them well with a soft flimsy car wash brush with warm water and just a drop or two of dishwashing liquid. Don't scrub- just brush away anything like grit on the surface with plenty of water and little pressure.

Rinse brush and bucket and do it again- this removes all grit that will scratch the windows. Then apply something like Maguire's Plastic Cleaner with cotton only cloth. Gentle rubbing but don't kill it. Polish it off with clean cotton cloth. This 'should' remove 95% of the white haze.

Never clean them with anything that has ammonia (read that windex) - just use the rinse w/ brush and the plastic cleaner method. With lots of boats and a convertible or two in my past this has proven to be the most reliable method. For me.
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Unread 02-22-2014, 10:18 AM   #39
RedRockRed
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Looks like you made a great buy. First, get rid of those dangerous shackles before they mess you up bad. Second, do a thorough mechanical and suspension inspection to prioritize your mod budget. You don't want to find out it needs serious work after you've blown your wad on a lift and tires.
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Unread 02-22-2014, 12:21 PM   #40
AmmitOsiris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endless381
I've got a 93 yj with a 5.5 SOA lift without a sye on 33's. Whatever lift you go with just do a T-case drop its ALOT cheaper then a sye/w driveshaft
And that t case drop isn't the right way. The sye is

ST. PATTY'S DAY NEEDS TO BE HERE ALREADY
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Unread 02-22-2014, 06:20 PM   #41
blitz134
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Nice looking Jeep! Much cleaner than my '90.

I like the choices you made for the suspension. If you are only going to run 33s, then the 2.5" + shackles + 1" body lift is the way to go (vs 3.5" + shackles). I think the 3.5" springs are possibly a little too arched for me, plus with the body lift you could do 1" motor mount lift and a flat/nearly flat belly pan to give some nice ground clearance under the frame.

If you have a second vehicle and can handle a week's downtime on the rig, do the SYE install, take your D-shaft measurements, and give Tom Woods a call. He'll have a new CV dshaft to you in a few days for about $300-350 shipped. If you plan to go to the 8.8 later, you don't have to worry about changing the dshaft length (unless you do a stretch). So don't let that hold you back.

Also, TJ rear fender flares will prevent your tires from contacting your tub on a hard bottom. Easy to install and they show up frequently on Craigslist for under $60$

What rims are those? They look nice!
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Unread 02-23-2014, 08:56 PM   #42
Killswitch505
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Endless381 nice looking jeep. I've got the tcase drop on it right now seems fine I would like to get rid of it soon. I want to run a flat skid plate I know i'll have clock the tcase to do that.

fishadventure thank you for the response. but I put a new sailtop on it last weekend

RedRockRed thank you for the kind words. the shackles were the first thing to hit the bottom of the dumpster.

AmmitOsiris +1

Quote:
Originally Posted by blitz134 View Post
Nice looking Jeep! Much cleaner than my '90.

Thank you man it was a really solid starting point were I live you really have to pay out the noise for one in this condition 5000+ i picked her up for 4000

I like the choices you made for the suspension. If you are only going to run 33s, then the 2.5" + shackles + 1" body lift is the way to go (vs 3.5" + shackles). I think the 3.5" springs are possibly a little too arched for me, plus with the body lift you could do 1" motor mount lift and a flat/nearly flat belly pan to give some nice ground clearance under the frame.

i just started looking into the 1'' motor mount lift a flat belly pan is one of my main goals


If you have a second vehicle and can handle a week's downtime on the rig, do the SYE install, take your D-shaft measurements, and give Tom Woods a call. He'll have a new CV dshaft to you in a few days for about $300-350 shipped. If you plan to go to the 8.8 later, you don't have to worry about changing the dshaft length (unless you do a stretch). So don't let that hold you back.

this is just my gun range/hunting rig the down time is not a problem. i do want to stretch the rear end an inch or so. I would like it to sit center in the wheel well it looks to be about an inch forward or so. the tom woods CV dshafts i'm seeing say 3-5" of lift but are requiring a "Drive Shaft Angle Reduction Kit" is there a brand you can recommend?

Also, TJ rear fender flares will prevent your tires from contacting your tub on a hard bottom. Easy to install and they show up frequently on Craigslist for under $60$

i really want to put a set of metal cloaks up front and some homebuilt in the rear but the TJs sound like an economical approach and look good to boot all this is really starting to add up lol I'm on craigslist everyday looking for deals but it really sucks living in BFE

What rims are those? They look nice!

MB TKO
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Unread 02-23-2014, 09:48 PM   #43
Killswitch505
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another quick question what do yall do about this it really makes washing it a pain in the ***



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Unread 02-23-2014, 10:54 PM   #44
blitz134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killswitch505 View Post
this is just my gun range/hunting rig the down time is not a problem. i do want to stretch the rear end an inch or so. I would like it to sit center in the wheel well it looks to be about an inch forward or so. the tom woods CV dshafts i'm seeing say 3-5" of lift but are requiring a "Drive Shaft Angle Reduction Kit" is there a brand you can recommend?
I believe it is referring to a shim kit. When you go with a CV drive shaft you want to angle the pinion up slightly to be inline with the drive shaft (optimally about two degrees below it to account for some axle wrap when under load). With the stock setup (u-joint drive shaft), you want the pinion and the tcase output to be parallel. Shim kits are available from any offroad shop on the web. If you swap the axle, you'll get to weld the spring perches on at any angle you want, so no shim kit is required. Before my axle swap I was running 8* shims with my 4" of lift and CV dshaft.

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Originally Posted by Killswitch505 View Post
but it really sucks living in BFE
You aren't kidding. I drove through that area a couple of years ago. On my way from Big Bend Nat'l Park up to Alamogordo, with a stop at Guadalupe Mtns Nat'l Park. Nice area though. I enjoyed the solitude (week long solo cross country trip moving out to CA)
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Unread 02-24-2014, 05:37 AM   #45
The_Goob
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Originally Posted by Killswitch505 View Post
another quick question what do yall do about this it really makes washing it a pain in the ***



There is supposed to be a bar there

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