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BDS 4-1/2" Suspension Lift Kit - Jeep Wrangler YJRuffstuff 10 year saleRough Country Lift Kits and Parts!

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Unread 09-15-2015, 01:43 AM   #1
tneville
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1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Oak Harbor, WA
Posts: 14
1980 Cj7 BoJack

So here is my first go at a build thread. This jeep has alot of sentimental value for our family so im gonna try and keep some of the major lines and pin-striping while upgrading most of the guts.
Here it is in its former Glory

285 inline 6
Dana 300 Transfer case
Everything stock.

How it sits now.


I found my donor for this build super cheap on caigslistso I have all the parts I need to get this up and running the way it should be. 1983 CJ, T5 Tranny, D300 TC. This came with a full 258 motor but the thing is completely ripped apart and sitting in boxes so it had to be towed.


Here are the two together


Next I picked up a 727 transmission with the 300 transfer case adapter already installed.


First things First. Pull the engine and clean it up a bit.


The thing is just covered in years of grease and will need to go through a few cycles of treatment


Got some brand new motor mounts, and swapped the motor over.


What I failed to realize is that between 1980 and 1983 the Computer/wiring is different. I Read up on this forum and quickly removed the computer and performed the Nutter bypass.
Before with all the wires.


After The Removal


Here is All the wire removed with the computer and bundle. Good Riddance.



Last edited by tneville; 09-16-2015 at 04:09 AM..
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Unread 09-15-2015, 01:56 AM   #2
tneville
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Today I got some headers sanded and primed with high temp engine primer


Also the master cylinder is ready for the final coat after the primer dries.
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Unread 09-19-2015, 03:41 PM   #3
tneville
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This weekend Ive gotten alot of painting done. Removed the axles to do the Rocky-Road SOA conversion so Ive cleaned them up and am finishing them with Rustoleum Silver Hammered finish.




Headers have the 1500 temp paint on them.

Old vs. New springs.

Ive Received and am going to install the OTT kit also.
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Unread 09-20-2015, 10:34 PM   #4
tneville
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Today I finished my last layer of paint on the axles for the install. Ill let them sit for a day or two before I install them. Ended up going with the brush on Rustoleum rusty primer and for the final coat used rustoleum hammered silver.


I also got the shackle hangers bolted up and prepped them for welding, hopefully tomorrow. I cant believe the kit came with just bolt on ones for a SOA kit. One of the driver side bolts broke off while uninstalling the stock hanger so I had to drill and tap it out. For some reason the shackles that came with the kit are all 4 the width of the rear springs. Either ill throw in some washers or think of another idea for the front.

Not pictured I installed one of the new rear leafs to check the fitment and all seems well so far.
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Unread 09-27-2015, 03:10 AM   #5
tneville
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Installed the high steer kit from Rocky Road and it all went pretty smooth except for the steer stop bolt on the passenger side. The hole did not line up at all so no bolt. I will think of something for that later.


I also got the spring hangers welded on and springs installed. All the bolts are loose until I ensure a good fitment with the SOA kit.



The mounting plates that wrap around the axle tube from the kit are to small so either this week or next weekend I will start grinding to make a good fitment.
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Unread 09-29-2015, 09:19 PM   #6
lovett86
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Awesome work your doing
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its a rusty one

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/90-yj-frame-swap-build-up-1434246/
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Unread 09-29-2015, 10:57 PM   #7
holliewood61
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Looking good so far. The reason the spring hangers are all the same size is because its designed to use yj springs rather than cj springs. Yj springs are 2.5" wide front and rear where cj springs are 2.5" rear 2" front.
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Unread 10-07-2015, 10:19 PM   #8
tneville
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I started to install the axles today and decided to go with the easy choice by starting with the rear. Little did I know the pieces do not fit around the axle. Ive decided that ill have to do alot of grinding and weld the dang things on. But I didnt really feel like doing that today so I moved on to the front.


The pieces for the front axle slipped right on.


The axle lined up well and im pleased with the results. The shocks that I had in the package for this jeep ended up being way to short so Ill have to sell them and order the right size. Next is the steering components


New stance with just the front installed and the rear on blocks. I really like the height.
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Unread 10-09-2015, 12:35 AM   #9
tneville
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Today I got the rear axle put on, ended up having to grind a little off the tube and cut into the previous mounts. Contacting the company and trying to get the mounts specifically for my axle I feel like would have been to much of a pain.




The jeep is finally back on its own wheels. I really like the new clearance although the rear end sits a little higher then the front. What I ended up doing is putting the rear leafs on the front and installing new replacements for the rear. I do plan on replacing the front ones at some point. Today I ordered some of the ford spring hangers. Sense I live on an island everything cost more for me, ended being around $23 each. Thats terrible but worth the few extra inches.
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Unread 10-09-2015, 01:56 AM   #10
holliewood61
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Why not cut the the spring under mounts off the tube on the rear since you wont be using them?
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08 WK bone stock
00 WJ daily driver
99 TJ mostly stock 97 TJ cheap jeep
81 CJ7 very little stock
60 CJ5 tore down
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Unread 10-11-2015, 12:57 AM   #11
tneville
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Today I knew I had to figure out how to get the tub off the frame. With limited amount of people, I knew the engine hoist was way to short now that the lift is on, and I wanted to keep it on a rolling chassis so that I could roll it out and pressure wash it. I built a beam out of 2X6's that ended up working very well. I also bought a com-a-long and some eyelet bolts from home depot and built my lift.






Now the tub is on blocks and the chassis is moved out of the way. Within the next 30 min, the tranny and transfer case was removed. While the tub is removed im going to install the new headers, the 727 auto tranny(still looking for the right flexplate bolts) If someone has a pn that would be awesome for 727 hookup to a 258. I would also like to tilt the tub to the side and fix 2 body mount bolts that broke off during removal. Lastly I want to weld up the F-250 shock mounts.
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Unread 10-11-2015, 01:05 AM   #12
tneville
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.

Last edited by tneville; 11-07-2015 at 01:15 AM..
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Unread 11-07-2015, 01:14 AM   #13
tneville
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This weekend has been very productive. The bolts for the 727 came in so I installed the tranny and transfer case. During this time I also installed a twin stick package to the transfer case.



Ended up having to fab up a transmission mount bracket. All said and done, the bracket looks something like this.



With these installed, i could move the jeep around again. The frame needed a bath so started off moving my tub out of the way so I could back the chassis out.



I really need to just take everything off the frame and por15 it but thats not gonna happen this year.



After moving it back inside, my choice was either put the tub back on or rip the motor apart... I chose option 2.
To my surprise someone stacked two gaskets on top of each other for the intake and exhaust manifolds!?!?



I never heard any leaks but that must have been because of the years and years of grime on this thing, heres what it did to the head.



I did a little deep cleaning and decided to test fit the headers to see if everything would line up. Thankfully all looks good so far.



I decided to dig a little deeper and take the valve cover off. Also to my surprise. The bolts holding this on were only finger tight. That could explain a few things...The more I see on this forum about the problems this engine has and how owners just happen upon issues. Things like cracked blocks but the engine still purs, just makes me realize how much I like the 258. I dont plan on changing it for anything.
The head is pretty dirty but the rods and springs look fine. Ill take a rag and clean things up a but then put the cover back on.

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Unread 11-07-2015, 09:40 PM   #14
1980tallcj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holliewood61 View Post
Why not cut the the spring under mounts off the tube on the rear since you wont be using them?
the original perches prevent the axle from rotating... remember, its a bolt-on SOA
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1980 CJ7, Mule
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Unread 11-08-2015, 12:22 AM   #15
tneville
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Oak Harbor, WA
Posts: 14
Did an alright job today, got the tub back on the frame. Its not all bolted up yet because I have to drill out two of the body bolts still.
Little pic of the stance, love it!


After I got the tub back on I took the front spring hangers off and went through the pros and cons of welding the ford hanger on vs bolting them on. I chose bolt on for now. I got the bottom bolt on both, now I need to make a spacer that I can put in the fame so it doesn't buckle once I tighten them down.



The center console that I have is gonna have to be modified to fit my twin stick setup. If i can have it my way, I will put the cb and all needed switches in this console rather then the dash. Hopefully it works that way



Last thing done tonight is the chevy blower motor upgrade. I found a little nest already started when I took the components apart for this. Completely forgot to take a pic of it but it had a nasty smell of rat piss. I soaked everything in simple green and let it sit outside in the rain. The little bastards ate through my antenna cable, gonna have to order that. Once dried, I prepped and painted all the plastics. This thing will blow soon enough.


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