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09-17-2011, 07:32 AM
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#361
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: salem, mo
Posts: 618
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Getting the rear leaf springs ready was no problem. The bushings that came in the kit were the perfect fit. No machine work. just press them in.
Since I'm a one man shop I had to suppport the far side of the leaf spring during pressing. I have enough problems getting these things to cooperate, they like to flop the wrong direction when I work with them.   . I used a ladder and stacked wood on one step til the leaf spring was supported level with the press surface, then pressed the bushings in.

Black and bronze always looks good together. 

Once the bushing is pressed in I clamped the spring in the vise and ran the 3/4" reamer through the bushing...done.
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09-17-2011, 11:46 AM
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#362
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: salem, mo
Posts: 618
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It's lunchtime and the dial-up is working pretty cooperatively. I started at the frame just behind the cab, I've slowly worked my way to the back. I'm about 3" from the very back of the frame, the end must be getting close. 
Years ago when I made the bed I welded square plates in the corners to support the bed, don't laugh they worked and that's what matters.  Obviously these need an update, so here goes.
Originally they used 1/4" angle iron to drop from the frame to support the rear bumper. The best I can tell, they allowed the angle iron to be about 3/8" higher than the top of the frame. I can only assume that this extra material gave them plenty of material to allow them to lay a heavy weld bead for strength.
Personally I don't like the extra height of this angle iron, so my update will allow me to grind down the extra material yet, still maintain a strong attachment from angle iron to the frame.
Here is the ugly that needs to be updated.

Here I've cut out the square away from the angle iron and ground down the angle iron closer to the height of the top of the frame rails. Somewhat also started pre-grinding the frame where the new welding will be done.

Here's the new corner piece. It will span the corner to create a new mounting tab for the bed, and it will be a perfect gusset for the whole corner. The loss of original weld and material is now gonna be supported from frame rail to frame rail. Is it just me? I have a desire to say... Na na na na na na na, batman. wham. slam. boom. smash, crash. You all gotta know the 60"s and 70's to remember..
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09-17-2011, 01:48 PM
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#363
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 154
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Man, that is a big difference from the older design and very nice. How do you cut, a torch and grind down, plasma cutter, or what? However you did it, you did a good job.
Ray
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09-17-2011, 05:39 PM
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#364
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: salem, mo
Posts: 618
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Harold_Ray, it's a matter of technology. Most of my ideas start with thought, then a piece of card board, or in this case, a cereal box from cinnamin toast crunch, gotta love those tasty squares. Oops, back to the build... I draw the idea, scan it to Thorchmate. It creates a cut path and it's cut with a plasma cutter.
Here's the paper idea.

In this next pic you can see how the new corner piece draws the corners together with the 1/4 angle iron caught in the middle. Beautiful fit.

Once I ground down the original piece of angle iron I went through much of the original weld on the opposite side of the angle iron. I used the 3" air grinder w/ cut off wheel and "v" cut into the old weld and layed down new weld to firmly reattach the angle iron to frame on the backside.
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09-17-2011, 05:54 PM
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#365
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 154
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I assumed you must be using a plasma cutter when I saw the piece but thought I would ask.
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09-17-2011, 08:34 PM
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#366
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: salem, mo
Posts: 618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harold_Ray
I assumed you must be using a plasma cutter when I saw the piece but thought I would ask.
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harold, I meant to ask. Are a jeep guy? Just curious what drew you to looking at the jeep forums.
I myself was just looking for ideas when I built my front bumper. I googled willys truck and the 49 willys truck thread came up. I read it then found the "build" section. I was hooked.
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09-18-2011, 06:06 PM
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#367
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Santa Fe, NM
Posts: 358
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Here she is next to my YJ! Needs a ton of work, but I want to bring it back to life. I will start a build thread soon... starting with some electrical because something is fried on it. Will keep following your thread of course  We are two lucky son's of a gun.
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09-18-2011, 06:40 PM
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#368
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ticonderoga, New York
Posts: 93
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Hmmmm, you going to put square headlights in it during the rebuild? Then it would be like the YJ, a real jeep.
__________________
Jeep is American for AWESOME!
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09-18-2011, 07:19 PM
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#369
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endimar
Hmmmm, you going to put square headlights in it during the rebuild? Then it would be like the YJ, a real jeep.
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09-18-2011, 07:28 PM
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#370
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: salem, mo
Posts: 618
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Viper723, YOU DID IT!!!!!!!    . Good for you. You have saved a truck, these are so very far and few anymore. I have no idea of your plans, drivetrain. suspension, ect, but as you get started I know there's a whole bunch of people willing to encourage you along the way. I totally look forward helping any way I can.
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09-18-2011, 07:41 PM
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#371
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: OR
Posts: 293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper723
Here she is next to my YJ! Needs a ton of work, but I want to bring it back to life. I will start a build thread soon... starting with some electrical because something is fried on it. Will keep following your thread of course  We are two lucky son's of a gun. 
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Before you start your build thread though be sure to read this one through to follow as an example  Love keeping up on the fabrication of this project and would love to see another project started. be sure to keep us all posted if you do make a build thread
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09-18-2011, 07:56 PM
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#372
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: salem, mo
Posts: 618
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Let's look at a technique for filling holes with the Mig welder. I see so many times people talk about using copper or brass as a backer while filling holes but I never get to see the results. So, let's just clamp a piece of brass to the backside of some holes in the frame shall we.....
I had a 1/8" piece about 12 inches long and 2 inches wide. I clamped it in place.

I filled a bunch of holes. Here is the backside...or brassside of a set of them. The nice part of using the brass backer is I only used a wire brush to clean the born residue. With these being between frame rails, no grinding is needed.

And here is the front side, looks the same as usual.
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09-18-2011, 08:31 PM
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#373
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 154
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Quote:
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Are a jeep guy? Just curious what drew you to looking at the jeep forums.
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I've got a 2011 4-door Rubicon. I have driven pick-ups all these years. Finally, I tried a Jeep when My associate got one. After trying it, I ordered a new Rubicon and I love it!!
I had a friend who had a World war II Jeep when we were in high school, the mid-1950s. We used it and a cut-down 1934 ford with a pipe body for rabbit hunting. If I'd gotten a Jeep early on, I'd be rebuilding these dudes now and for many past years, but I didn't. Too bad!
Ray
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09-18-2011, 08:37 PM
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#374
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,236
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Does the brass or copper just not let the weld stick to it? Is that the idea?
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09-18-2011, 09:02 PM
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#375
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: salem, mo
Posts: 618
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Ray, thanks for the reply. hmmm high school in the 50's, I bet that was a great time to be in High School, it was a very optomistic time. I do sence a desire to do some rebuilding in your future yet though.
Exactly Jeff88, If you try to weld to brass or copper the weld just spits and sputters. When I filled these holes I had to aim towards the side and not directly at the brass itself. The only thing I see that might be a negative is if you look closely at the backside/brassside of the weld it doesn't look like there was a deep penetration around the edge of the hole. Although I know towards the front side of the weld it did melt in good. Since these are merely a cosmetic weld and strength is not a major issue, all is good.
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