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Wiring in a switch for both Fog and Driving lights

1K views 22 replies 4 participants last post by  turbogus 
#1 ·
This might be a thread JeepHammer could figure out easily...
Pulled this switch from a Chevy pickup, apparently it's from a snowplow rig.







I wired it up like this but I didn't wire in the negative (from another thread I was told it was unnessesary) it's set up for key on they come on but in any position (Up, Center (off) or Down there's power at both of the feed wires to the relays. Either the back of this switch is hacked or it's just lacking a ground. What do y'all think?
 
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#2 ·
I wired it like this;

 
#3 ·
I think I found a digram for a DPDT switch that may apply but I'm getting a bit confused...
 
#5 ·
Yes, as this seems to be the function of the switch. :smile2:
 
#8 ·
These are going to be wired into a relay panel that will feed a pair of 130w Bosch fog lights using 12 gauge wiring from the relays. It seems by the switch labels the up is for fog and down for driving. I thought the ground would be nessesary.
 
#10 ·
To wire two sets of lights to come on separately from a single switch, I would use an on/off/on switch and two SPST relays.

Relay 1:
Pin 30 fused to battery (wire and fuse rated accordingly).
Pin 87 to light positives (wire rated accordingly).
Pin 85 to top pin of switch.
Pin 86 to ground.

Relay 2:
Pin 30 fused to battery (wire and fuse rated accordingly).
Pin 87 to the other light positives (wire rated accordingly).
Pin 85 to bottom pin of switch.
Pin 86 to ground.

Middle pin of on/off/on switch to switched power. Then the switch would send power to the control circuit of 1 relay with the switch up and the other relay with the switch down. You could jump the relay pins 86 together.
 
#11 ·
Thanks 14Sport, I do already know how to wire a relay, but this switch I really want to retain as it is OEM. When I checked for continuity with my Ohmmeter it looks as though only one of the few configurations yielded an open, maybe it is a bad switch...



Here's what I found running Pin tests with my Multimeter;
Switch OFF
Pin 1 to Pin 2 = 50 Ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 3 = 99 Ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 5 = OPEN

Pin 2 to Pin 3 = 50 Ohms
Pin 2 to Pin 5 = OPEN

Pin 3 to Pin 5 = OPEN

Switch FOG
Pin 1 to Pin 2 = 50 Ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 3 = 107 Ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 5 = 0.1 Ohms

Pin 2 to Pin 3 = 51 Ohms
Pin 2 to Pin 5 = 52 Ohms

Pin 3 to Pin 5 = 101 ohms

Switch Driving
Pin 1 to Pin 2 = 50 Ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 3 = 99 Ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 5 = 99 Ohms

Pin 2 to Pin 3 = 49 Ohms
Pin 2 to Pin 5 = 49 Ohms

Pin 3 to Pin 5 = 0.3 Ohms

I don't know if this is indicative of a bad switch or not.

I disassembled the dingus and while there was a little crud post reassembly fared no better.



 
#12 ·
The numbers are faint on this dingus but looking closely they are visible;



I found what seems to be switches that match a face of this at boating/nautical shops online, I'm waiting to hear from one how many pins are on theirs.
 
#13 ·
I have a conventional 6 pin switch coming from IBoats.com, it seems to be a match;



Since I already know how to pull this dingus apart I can replace the pace of this one with the (faded) printed face. I wonder if I can retouch the text on the original one.
 
#14 ·
Sorry just saw the pics of the disassembled switch. Looks very basic. The only way for them to all light at the same time is for all three contacts to be connected. I would verify the flat bars on the back are not touching. Maybe separate them using a flat blade screwdriver. And then make sure the metal internal rocker is functioning with the switch. Maybe it needs to be bent a little more toward 90 degrees. If it is not pivoting then it could be making a constant connection. Make sure the pivoting action is functioning. Since it is not flat though it can't be connecting all three at once which is why I am suspect of the flat bars.
 
#15 ·
I think that bar is what aids in the rocking of the switch, but with that conventional 6 pin switch coming, if the dimensions are the same, will solve this conundrum.
 
#16 ·
That could be. It looks to me like that internal bar rests on the middle feed pin and then makes contact with the upper or lower pin when the switch is moved. If you look closely at the copper, not brass, internal rivets you can see where it makes contact. And the one on the right side of your picture has black on it which suggests burning so I think that may be where it was resting instead of moving with the switch activation.
 

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#17 ·
#19 ·
Thanks for developing that schematic, I had the same worked out in my head but with these dingus' on the way (6 pin) I can wrap my head around it as it's configured like my RatShack fan control switch.

Using my Ohmmeter, despite having OPEN in the OFF mode when either FOG was on or DRIVING was on there was some continuity on the opposing terminal. This may be on account of the wiring for the lights, but it seems to me it's an invitation for a dash fire.
 
#21 ·
With the rocker removed the readings of the Ohmmeter are balanced between the FOG and DRIVING pins which leads me to believe that the 50 +/- Ohms are the internal wiring of the lights.
 
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#23 ·
The new switch is wired with twin rocker bars and independant wiring (like a conventional ON-OFF-ON switch) and after finding a point to connect negative the new switch is working like a champ, just waiting on a new faceplate and the switch'll be finalized.
 
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