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Unread 09-23-2004, 11:55 AM   #1
omnipseudo
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Wiring multiple amps/speakers SirGCal/Wiring experts!

Hi, thanks for taking the time to read this post

[The Objective]
Wire a bunch of sound equipment into a truck for a homecomming parade.

[The Truck]
Ford F150, 6inch lift, 37" muds, optima yellow top battery, stock alternator

[The Equipment]

2 10s @ 300w RMS
2 10s @ 250w RMS
1 10 @ 275 w RMS
1 2Chan 700w Amp
1 2Chan 550w Amp
1 2Chan 1000w Amp
2 Tower speakers @ 100w RMS each

[The Questions]

1. How do I go about wiring all this to a truck as far as power, grounds, rems and rcas. (See diagram below)
2. Will i need to attatch another car battery, if so how?
3. Any other precautions/notes I should be aware of

[The Diagram]
Super Paint Skills Wiring
Im very knowledgeable in installing/wiring systems, just not with multiple amps/speakers hooked up, so any help you can provide would be great. Ive drawn out a paint doc to what id assume needs to be done right now. My main concern is the power routing and rca wiring, this is where im not too sure of things(also wiring things in series or parrallel if needed).

And yes I realize my paint "skills" are terrible, but its better than nothing lol. Drop me a reply/words of advice! Thanks in advance

EDIT : Ive decided to use distro blocks for the ground/power wires and hook the REM wire to the fuse box...Still unsure about the rcas and how to wire them!

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Unread 09-23-2004, 12:48 PM   #2
SirGCal
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Odds are your factory alternator isn't going to be able to keep up with that much power for very long... Also, if you plan to run it with the engine off alot, you'll probably need a few more batteries.

Also, be carefull about mixing home and mobile audio speakers and amps. They are often VERY different in terms of rated power and resistance ratings... General rule of thumb is don't use home equipment in a car unless you're running all home equipment off a generator or something similar... However, if you do run home speakers off car amps, be very aware of running resistances. Most home speakers are 6-12 Ohms instead of the normal 4 in car audio this greatly changes the output power of an amplifier.

As far as wiring the amps, find out how much current all of the amps could potentially use at the same time. A safe way to do this is just add up the total fuse ratings of all of the amps. This would be your current limit. You'll base the wire you use and fuse ratings off these values. (they should be worst case scenerio.)

But guessing by the power ratings, you'll probably need at least 4 AWG if not even 2 AWG power/ground wire. Send the main power from the battery to a distribution block. From there run appropriate wire to the amps. (probably 10-8 AWG would be sufficient, but this wire shouldn't be more than 5' or so..) For best safety, also have individual fuses at the distribution block for each amp (rated appropriately.)

The grounds simply put the same AWG wire back to a non-fused distribution block and then ground (same guages as power wire respectively, just not as long or fused..) the block to the chassis in a paint-free, solid mounting location.

No not run the remote wire to the fuse block. Amp and speaker damage could result when the radio is turned on and the amps are already running. Though rare, it is a possibility. (the initial "pop" could push the speakers into excursion.. That could damage the speaker and potentially short the coil resulting in amp damage as well..) Run the remote off of the Remote-Turn-On lead of the head unit. If this doesn't exist on your head unit, use the Power Antenna lead. (almost all head units have this..)

Run the RCAs back for what ever channels you have available. If you only have one RCA output, then just use that. If you have more than one, then you might have other options. If you're just running subs and you have a sub-only or non-fading output, use that. Head units may have more controls for these outputs than others. Run that output to one amp. Then use the preamp-outputs on that amp (if available) to go to the next amp. And so on.

If you don't have pre-amp outputs, you can use a "Y" cable to split the signal. This usually adds a little bit of noise but it shouldn't be very noticable.

If you are using a factory head unit, you will likely need some type of converter (unless all of your amps have speaker-level inputs). http://www.crutchfield.com/S-h60JZR2...f=N&search=PAC

Also, I didn't see a picture.. did you have one?
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Unread 09-23-2004, 02:54 PM   #3
omnipseudo
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Thanks for the reply, Im set on the power and ground now.

As far as the REM wire, will the amp rem from the HU be powerful enough to turn on all the amps? Also the only other thing im confused about is the rca wiring. But from what i gather, id run the rcas from the amps to the sub pre outs, rear and front preouts?

And the pic is not of any value right now cuz of the changes ive made, but ill make another diagram tonight and have it up with my new findings. thanks again for the reply.

EDIT: What about the batteries? The truck will always be on while this setup is running, but will i need to add another battery? if so , how?
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Unread 09-23-2004, 03:09 PM   #4
SirGCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omnipseudo
Thanks for the reply, Im set on the power and ground now.

As far as the REM wire, will the amp rem from the HU be powerful enough to turn on all the amps?
Ohh Yea, that should be absolutely no problem. It doesn't really take any power as much as just a signal... Extremely low power for the remote wire.

Quote:
Originally Posted by omnipseudo
Also the only other thing im confused about is the rca wiring. But from what i gather, id run the rcas from the amps to the sub pre outs, rear and front preouts?
Yes.. You can do that (one amp per pre-out.) Or you can run them all off one pre-out. It depends on your equipment and what you want to do with it. Using "y" cables to split RCA's to multiple amps is ok.

Quote:
Originally Posted by omnipseudo
And the pic is not of any value right now cuz of the changes ive made, but ill make another diagram tonight and have it up with my new findings. thanks again for the reply.

EDIT: What about the batteries? The truck will always be on while this setup is running, but will i need to add another battery? if so , how?
Multiple batteries require a special battery isolator and/or regulator. They would only be necessary for long vehicle-off runtime. If you run the vehicle on, the power mostly comes from the alternator. (well, the power should come from there, if you over-power your alternator, you get the dimming problem, then surging, then stalling...) Worst of all for audio though, and the first thing to happen, is you get dirty power. (the system is only as good as it's weakest point, and dirty power effects everything..)
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Sir G. Cal - 2k Sahara TJ

Living and loving on borrowed time. Life with Multiple Sclerosis. My MS/Life blog, Audio and Electronic write-ups, project how-tos, pictures, stories, and more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 09-24-2004, 05:02 PM   #5
jeepskate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
Worst of all for audio though, and the first thing to happen, is you get dirty power. (the system is only as good as it's weakest point, and dirty power effects everything..)
Yup. You're more likely to fry an amp first. I learned this one the hard way years ago trying to run 4 amps (total of about 1600 watts) inmy old CJ-7.
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