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Unread 02-13-2013, 01:03 PM   #1
GuzzyWrangler
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Wiring KC light help

Im sure Im beating a dead horse on this issue but I cant seem to understand most wiring diagrams. So on that note Iv decided to make my own picture diagram thats needs to be finished by hopefully one of you. This would hopefully help me a lot if someone matched everything together for me with colors.

Info:
I want to wire my 4 KC lights properly. 1 switch for 2 Lights. I need help wiring everything in-between. Meaning something like this and I could be wrong: Lights to fuse box, fuse box to relay, relay to battery, relay to switch. Where and how do I ground all this?

Parts list as of today:
4 KC Lights
2 switches (2 prong only)
Blue sea system 6 fuse block with ground bus (ground bus???)

Need:
Wires
relays
fuses

Need to know:
Guage Wire?
Relay AMP?
Fuse AMP?
Wiring?
Diagram Help?

Suggestions???

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Unread 02-13-2013, 01:06 PM   #2
GuzzyWrangler
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Diagram
screen-shot-2013-02-13-2.05.09-pm.png  
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Unread 02-13-2013, 02:11 PM   #3
Jerry Bransford
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I can provide a simplified schematic tonight but have you considered just using a pair of the pre-wired driving light wiring harnesses that are prewired complete with a relay that handles two lights? They work, are inexpensive, and easily connected. All of the major offroad light manufacturers like KC and PIAA make them which should be available in any 4x4 store that sells driving lights. Other brands of pre-wired wiring kits will work for your KC lights as well as KC's kit will.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 05:20 PM   #4
GuzzyWrangler
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yes, I have considered it but this is also a learning experience for me on future projects. Id like to get some electrical knowledge under my belt.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 05:28 PM   #5
JeepExtreme30
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i have be wondering how to do this as well id like to do 2 windshield mounted lights and 2 on the bumper with the daystar vent switches but i have yet to see a good way to do this. ill be watching your thread
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Unread 02-13-2013, 05:47 PM   #6
Davf24
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2 KC lights

Quote:
Originally Posted by GuzzyWrangler View Post
Im sure Im beating a dead horse on this issue but I cant seem to understand most wiring diagrams. So on that note Iv decided to make my own picture diagram thats needs to be finished by hopefully one of you. This would hopefully help me a lot if someone matched everything together for me with colors.

Info:
I want to wire my 4 KC lights properly. 1 switch for 2 Lights. I need help wiring everything in-between. Meaning something like this and I could be wrong: Lights to fuse box, fuse box to relay, relay to battery, relay to switch. Where and how do I ground all this?

Parts list as of today:
4 KC Lights
2 switches (2 prong only)
Blue sea system 6 fuse block with ground bus (ground bus???)

Need:
Wires (the gauge will depend on the amperage) (gauge is wire size)
relays (looks like you have them)(also amperage is a factor)
fuses (you need to know what your KC lts are rated for)

Need to know:
Guage Wire? (see above)
Relay AMP? (see above)
Fuse AMP? (see above)
Wiring?
Diagram Help?

Suggestions???
See notes above
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Unread 02-13-2013, 06:20 PM   #7
Davf24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuzzyWrangler View Post
Diagram
You will need to know what each terminal is on the relays do (normally open, normally closed, coil, positive/negative).

The terminal block:
The positive on the terminal block will feed power through the fuses to the screw terminals (when you feed the main power to the unit you will need to use a size wire that can handle the total amp rating of the terminal block, this will allow you to use all 6 fuse ports in the future) (go to autozone or napa for wire, don't be shocked if the wire is a big diameter) (example look at a winch cable, certain winches can draw 300amps under load, the wire must be rated for 300amps minimum, including the connectors. NEVER trim the wire to make it fit on a connector)

The negative terminal on the block looks like it feeds the 6 screw terminals that you have marked ???. (you will need a volt/ohm meeter to confirm)

Relays:
you will want to feed the power from the terminal block to one normally open terminal, from the other normally open terminal then to the KC lights (2 lights) (if the lights are rated at 20amps each you will need to provide a wire capable to handle 40 amps if you will wire them in series from the normally open terminal)(if you want to run a single wire to each light (2 lights) from the one normally open terminal then you will run a 20amp rated wire) The coil terminal will be rated for a certain amperage, maybe 5 amps (you need to confirm), you will need to run a positive wire from the battery to the switch then to the positive coil connector, the negative coil will be grounded. (The reason for the relay is to handle the lighting load through the relay and not damage the switch, if you bought switches that can handle the high amperage and are rated for the use then you would not need the relay)

I hope this gets you started, I would suggest heading to NAPA and pick up an automotive wiring how to book to help you understand some of the technical terms.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 06:41 PM   #8
GuzzyWrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davf24 View Post
You will need to know what each terminal is on the relays do (normally open, normally closed, coil, positive/negative).

The terminal block:
The positive on the terminal block will feed power through the fuses to the screw terminals (when you feed the main power to the unit you will need to use a size wire that can handle the total amp rating of the terminal block, this will allow you to use all 6 fuse ports in the future) (go to autozone or napa for wire, don't be shocked if the wire is a big diameter) (example look at a winch cable, certain winches can draw 300amps under load, the wire must be rated for 300amps minimum, including the connectors. NEVER trim the wire to make it fit on a connector)

The negative terminal on the block looks like it feeds the 6 screw terminals that you have marked ???. (you will need a volt/ohm meeter to confirm)

Relays:
you will want to feed the power from the terminal block to one normally open terminal, from the other normally open terminal then to the KC lights (2 lights) (if the lights are rated at 20amps each you will need to provide a wire capable to handle 40 amps if you will wire them in series from the normally open terminal)(if you want to run a single wire to each light (2 lights) from the one normally open terminal then you will run a 20amp rated wire) The coil terminal will be rated for a certain amperage, maybe 5 amps (you need to confirm), you will need to run a positive wire from the battery to the switch then to the positive coil connector, the negative coil will be grounded. (The reason for the relay is to handle the lighting load through the relay and not damage the switch, if you bought switches that can handle the high amperage and are rated for the use then you would not need the relay)

I hope this gets you started, I would suggest heading to NAPA and pick up an automotive wiring how to book to help you understand some of the technical terms.
I will check a napa wiring book out tomorrow. By terminal block you mean the fuse block or do you mean one of the relays? Also not actually sure what you mean by "normally open terminal".

1. I got the KC lights used, how would I test the amps for 1 KC light? Im not sure if 1 KC light is 20 amp or what.
2. So before I buy a relay I need to know the AMPs of what? What I did understand was that if 1 light is 20 amps but wire 2 KC lights to the same switch than I would need a total of 40 amp wire. Correct?
3. Coil terminal?.. is that indicated on a relay or are you talking about the fuse block?
4. Fuse block has a negative bus terminal. Can that be used as a ground or where would be a good place to ground?

So let me get this straight so far:
-Positive battery terminal wired to one terminal on switch.
-The second terminal on switch to a relay. (I still need to figure out which terminal on the relay)
-relay to fuse block?
-Lights to fuse black
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Unread 02-13-2013, 06:43 PM   #9
GuzzyWrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepExtreme30 View Post
i have be wondering how to do this as well id like to do 2 windshield mounted lights and 2 on the bumper with the daystar vent switches but i have yet to see a good way to do this. ill be watching your thread
I will be posting pictures as I go. Im doing the same setup (2 lights on windshield, 2 lights on bumper). Only difference is the switch, mine are from Autozone.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 06:44 PM   #10
GuzzyWrangler
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I swear Im gonna figure this out!
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Unread 02-13-2013, 06:51 PM   #11
GuzzyWrangler
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If Im correct.. KC lights website states that Fog lights are 100watts and the long range lights is 130watts. Not sure if this helps any but those are the lights Im running. Still unsure of AMPs for each one. Suggestions?
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Unread 02-13-2013, 07:17 PM   #12
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diagram.jpg

EDIT: Made it more relevant to the situation.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 08:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuzzyWrangler View Post
If Im correct.. KC lights website states that Fog lights are 100watts and the long range lights is 130watts. Not sure if this helps any but those are the lights Im running. Still unsure of AMPs for each one. Suggestions?
There is a very simple equation that will help you determine the mathematical current draws, so long as you have at least two of the three variables. Since you wish to find the current draw of a rated 100 watt lamp that operates on a 12 volt system, we will structure the equation like so:

100 watts / 12 volts = 8.33 amps

However, since your system does not run on 12 volts, it's always best to use a variable such as 13.6 volts- basically a voltage that the system actually operates at.

So that would be:

100 watts / 13.6 volts = 7.35 amps

Considering the resistance regarding a filament lamp is a bit higher, you can round up to the next number to safely chose your fuses, in this case you can count on a 100 watt Halogen lamp to draw approximately 8 amps running at 13.6 volts.

This applies to anything electrical, be it power inside of your house, an electric motor on a model airplane, or your auxiliary lights.

-------

The diagram in the previous post is how one would wire up a system with a fuse panel, EXCEPT people commonly power 2 lamps off of one relay, not 3 lamps.

Whenever you utilize a relay in an electrical application, the supply lead always gets the fused link on it- there is no need for a fuse anywhere else in the system, since it's all downstream from the power source at this point.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 08:35 PM   #14
sjones26573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
There is a very simple equation that will help you determine the mathematical current draws, so long as you have at least two of the three variables. Since you wish to find the current draw of a rated 100 watt lamp that operates on a 12 volt system, we will structure the equation like so:

100 watts / 12 volts = 8.33 amps

However, since your system does not run on 12 volts, it's always best to use a variable such as 13.6 volts- basically a voltage that the system actually operates at.

So that would be:

100 watts / 13.6 volts = 7.35 amps

Considering the resistance regarding a filament lamp is a bit higher, you can round up to the next number to safely chose your fuses, in this case you can count on a 100 watt Halogen lamp to draw approximately 8 amps running at 13.6 volts.

This applies to anything electrical, be it power inside of your house, an electric motor on a model airplane, or your auxiliary lights.

-------

The diagram in the previous post is how one would wire up a system with a fuse panel, EXCEPT people commonly power 2 lamps off of one relay, not 3 lamps.

Whenever you utilize a relay in an electrical application, the supply lead always gets the fused link on it- there is no need for a fuse anywhere else in the system, since it's all downstream from the power source at this point.
What are you talking about? 2 lights per relay in that diagram.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 09:14 PM   #15
GuzzyWrangler
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sjones26573-----
Thanks for the Diagram! Helps a lot. Last question ESL? Whats it stand for?
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