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#1 | |
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What Brand Speakers?
What brand speakers are good but won't break my bank?
im going to build a fiberglass box for the cargo area of my cherokee and i was going to put like 12inch (sub), 8inch (do they make a mid like this?), then a 4inch (tweeter). DOES THIS COMBO SUCK IF SO TELL ME CUZ I DONT KNOW WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT. also is it bad to have more than one speaker in the same fiberglass enclosure if they arent seperated? thanks
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1989 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Build |
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#2 |
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stick with like sized subs. it will sound better and its easier to get good sound out of it. 2 10" would give you alot of noise if thats what you are going for with out sacrificing too much lows but make up some of an 8". then stick with some 6.5" door speakers.
i would put the other speakers in the same chamber as the sub. sub makes alot of pressure.
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-James Got to love an ORVIS guy... IRO 5.5", Front LA & Double Sheer TB, Rear Adjustable SA and TB, JKS Quick Discos, DT8Ks 265/75/16 Nitto Terra's, Cragar 16x& Soft 8s 4" bs JCR Stage 2 Sliders, IRO Trans Skid |
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#3 |
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Don't mix and match sub sizes, you won't get too nice of a sound out of that.
If your looking for a system that hits, a lot of bass, especially mids and some lows, go with 2 12" subs. If your looking for one with more a vocal, and hi range, go for 2 10" subs. The only reason I'm saying 2 subs, is just because it is generally louder. Not the case with every single set up, but you get the same tone from each speaker with usually more volume. As for the tweeters, 4" inch speakers are mid ranges, they will provide for some decent high tones such as vocals, with very good mids, but very little bass. 4" tweeters do not exsist. If your looking for just hi tones like vocals insane guitar solos, etc get 1" tweeters in the front, you can mount them just about anywhere. If you want more mid range from your music in the front go for the 4" speakers. It all depends on what you want.
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White 90 YJ...Soft/Hardtop, 31" BFGs, 3.5" lift, Rebuilt 4.2L, Weber 34/34, Herc'd LOOKING FOR 4cyl axles F/R, 4.10s, will trade for my 3.07s complete
Also need 16x8 rims with less backspacing |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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well can i still put more than one sub in the same fiberglass enclosure? as long as it isnt a sub and a tweeter? or a sub and a mid?
any brand name reccomendations?
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1989 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Build |
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#5 |
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as so long as the subs match in specs. (stick with the same sub.... it looks dumb when stuff is mix matched)
fiberglass is alot of work. plan for it to end up costing 2x more than what you originally planned... for subs brand wise i would stick with alpine, jl audio, mtx, memphis, diamond, or elemental designs. those are all very decent manufacturers. but they all do stuff different. you need to find which kind you like the sound of best. theres nothing worse than buying something and hating it. te main issue to address is how much are you planning to spend? thats the biggest issue.
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-James Got to love an ORVIS guy... IRO 5.5", Front LA & Double Sheer TB, Rear Adjustable SA and TB, JKS Quick Discos, DT8Ks 265/75/16 Nitto Terra's, Cragar 16x& Soft 8s 4" bs JCR Stage 2 Sliders, IRO Trans Skid |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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i understand that fiberglass is a lot of work. but im planning on doing it over time as a good winter project.
i really dont know how much i would spend. think it could be done with 2 12's and all materials under 250 bucks? maybe 2 10's?
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1989 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Build |
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#7 |
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mine is around $250 with paint and everything. remind you there was some slight waste but yeah.
heres the best i can show you right now of what it is actually sized. but its 1/2" thick. its for a single 10" ![]() the thickness depends on what subs you are planning on running. thats the first thing to decide. go to your local audio place and take a listen to some and see what you like and what you can afford. theres a whole lot that i like but not many that fit in the budget if you know what i mean ![]()
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-James Got to love an ORVIS guy... IRO 5.5", Front LA & Double Sheer TB, Rear Adjustable SA and TB, JKS Quick Discos, DT8Ks 265/75/16 Nitto Terra's, Cragar 16x& Soft 8s 4" bs JCR Stage 2 Sliders, IRO Trans Skid |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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for alot of info http://www.fiberglassforums.com/index.php you have to register to see the forums but there is a whole lot of magic that some of the guys in there can do.
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-James Got to love an ORVIS guy... IRO 5.5", Front LA & Double Sheer TB, Rear Adjustable SA and TB, JKS Quick Discos, DT8Ks 265/75/16 Nitto Terra's, Cragar 16x& Soft 8s 4" bs JCR Stage 2 Sliders, IRO Trans Skid |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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okay thanks man i will take all that into perspective.
and yeah im definately headin down to the audio shop to see what i like.
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1989 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Build |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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You can do this...do the 12" subs in a chamber then a smaller chamber angeled toward the cabin for the 8" and the 4" (as sort of a soundbar) you will want the 8 to be a midbass and the 4 to be a midrange, either be on a 4 channel amp in an "active" crossover setting or you'll want to connect them to a 2 channel amp with a passive crossover (which you'll probably have to build) You could easily stretch the 2 smaller speakers by adding a smaller tweeter and going 3 way active/passive. Look into some of steve meade's designs b/c his fiberglass setups on a-pillars is simply phenomenal. Keep in mind mixing speaker sizes can be fine but you have to set the frequencies perfect in order for it to work. It's a project not too many people would want to undertake. Also having highs and mids coming from behind you is going to set the soundstage behind you, you would be better off to do some fiberglass pods for the doors to take the 8" and putting the 4" and a tweeter" in fiberglass on the a column.
The speaker brand you use will depend on what cubic volume and power you have to work with. Also you'll want a head unit that allows you to manipulate the speakers. It's going to be an expensive project. What is your overall goal? If you want it to simply be, "loud" build something to take 4 10's or 4 12's |
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#11 |
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Recon death squad
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Ok, I'm not much of a gearhead but audio is my realm of knowledge.
Everyone who said don't mix-n-match sub sizes is correct, they will drone each other out and youll be left with a mediocre sounding set-up. if you just want it to be loud 2 12"s can definitely be loud. but what kind of bass are you looking for? 10's will give you a clear bass, but not loud bass. 12's are a happy medium. Loud, clear (not as clear as 10's) bass. 15's are what give you the bass that your neighbors will feel before you turn the corner. how much are you looking to spend on speakers??
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SOLDSilver 02 TJ Apex Edition. "Pandora" 3.5"RE LA--35" MT/Rs--Savvy--MetalCloak--Superior--Currie--ARB--and stuff IndyORV |
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#12 |
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Recon death squad
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If your budget is $250 then why not just a decent component set with a small component amp?
Because remember what has to fit in this budget, even if your building your own box. Box, or materials to build one. Whatever size/brand/type of speaker you choose. Amp for your sub or component set. Wiring kit for your sub/compnents and amp.
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SOLDSilver 02 TJ Apex Edition. "Pandora" 3.5"RE LA--35" MT/Rs--Savvy--MetalCloak--Superior--Currie--ARB--and stuff IndyORV |
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#13 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
WOW. i need to make this simpler. im thinking 2 10's in a fiberglass box. new door speakers. and a new deck. and spend wisely and do this over a period of a few months... with 2 10's in the same box, does it matter how big the box is? or how close the subs are to the floor of my cargo area? are there any limits?
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1989 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Build |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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i would make it fit in against the back seat and aiming backwards with a slight angle on them so point up and the back glass. when you find the subs you like you need to get the specs for them. each individual speaker is different from the next. if you get the specs on the speaker you like the recommended size for the box should be in with everything else. the kicker cvx i have now (and hate) calls for .8 ft^3 and the alpine type x i plan on running takes .69ft^3. before you start glassing anything i suggest you get eh sub first to build off of.
if you want a sealed box which will provide tight accurate bass and take up less room it is generally smaller than a ported which is louder but takes up more space and is very finicky about the specs. it has to be perfect. a sealed has a little more wiggle room for error.
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-James Got to love an ORVIS guy... IRO 5.5", Front LA & Double Sheer TB, Rear Adjustable SA and TB, JKS Quick Discos, DT8Ks 265/75/16 Nitto Terra's, Cragar 16x& Soft 8s 4" bs JCR Stage 2 Sliders, IRO Trans Skid |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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http://www.chimchim.net/rav4/how/fiber.htm
http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/misc.htm http://ccs.exl.info/fbglass.html a few sites that were recommended to me when i first asked about fiberglass a while back.
__________________
-James Got to love an ORVIS guy... IRO 5.5", Front LA & Double Sheer TB, Rear Adjustable SA and TB, JKS Quick Discos, DT8Ks 265/75/16 Nitto Terra's, Cragar 16x& Soft 8s 4" bs JCR Stage 2 Sliders, IRO Trans Skid |
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