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Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Electrical, Audio, GPS, & 2-Way Radio > Upgrading speakers in 2000 Cherokee Sport XJ

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Old 11-20-2009, 10:34 PM   #16
XJ Jay
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i put 6.5s in my doors with quite a bit of modification. has to make the hole bigger, put a spacer between the speaker and the door, and i had to clearance the **** out of the factory speaker grill.

now to 6.5 sound better then 5.25, to many variables but ill sum it up this way, does a 12 hit harder and play louder then a 10 of the same brand model and power handling

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HERSBlack 08 JK Unlimited X, Stock for now, 2 1/2" and 33's to come
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Old 11-21-2009, 02:31 AM   #17
Deezelweazel
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I have 4" component system. Sound quality does not depend on size.

Knowing the fact these small speakers can't deliver any punch below 200Hz,but I'm happy with it.

And every real American would prefer a .45 over a .38, right?

But I'm going for quality. I can't stand those crappy cheap speakers in combination with those cheap made amps. Thats the performance you get: ...crappy cheap...

It terrifies me to see those 10.000.000million watt badges attached to the amp and knowing the fact the amp will be poorly able to deliver that wattage a microsecond.

Get a good system that fits into that space.
Take the time to mount it properly.
Avoid the use simple sheet metal screws. Use nice nuts and bolts. Isolate the doors with that Dynamat stuff. Take the time to wire it properly.
Sometimes it is better to use 2 two channel amps. With that you are able to shorten the speaker cable length. Better response...

You will be able to outperform most of the 6.5" speaker installs just by taking care of a better install.
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Old 11-21-2009, 11:22 AM   #18
alexrule123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deezelweazel View Post
I have 4" component system. Sound quality does not depend on size.

Knowing the fact these small speakers can't deliver any punch below 200Hz,but I'm happy with it.

And every real American would prefer a .45 over a .38, right?

But I'm going for quality. I can't stand those crappy cheap speakers in combination with those cheap made amps. Thats the performance you get: ...crappy cheap...

It terrifies me to see those 10.000.000million watt badges attached to the amp and knowing the fact the amp will be poorly able to deliver that wattage a microsecond.

Get a good system that fits into that space.
Take the time to mount it properly.
Avoid the use simple sheet metal screws. Use nice nuts and bolts. Isolate the doors with that Dynamat stuff. Take the time to wire it properly.
Sometimes it is better to use 2 two channel amps. With that you are able to shorten the speaker cable length. Better response...

You will be able to outperform most of the 6.5" speaker installs just by taking care of a better install.
While I will agree with you that you can have a good sounding setup with a 4" component set the real issue is that it will not be able to play down low enough. My friend was acutally going to do a setup with a 3" midrange and then a peerless SLS 8" in each door but his concern was that the 3" could not go loud enough. Now I agree with you 100% that the install can make amazing speakers sound average if you just throw them into a door with nothing else.

Parts-Express.com:Tang Band W3-1364SA 3" Bamboo Cone Driver | CYBER09 tangband tb neo newband tangband-41108

Parts-Express.com:Peerless 830667 8" Paper Cone Subwoofer | Peerless SLS 830667 8" Subwoofer bass mid midbass mtm coated cone 2-way tymphany09
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Old 11-21-2009, 02:05 PM   #19
Deezelweazel
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alex, you should hear the 4" combo...
I wouldn't let them play without sub support, because they couldn't handle the cone movement. But in their range ( I cut them off at 200Hz) they play x-tremly clear and loud if demanded. They can handle 150 watts rms each in combination with a frequency cross cover unit. As a stand alone unit they only handle 75 watts rms.
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Old 11-21-2009, 02:20 PM   #20
alexrule123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deezelweazel View Post
alex, you should hear the 4" combo...
I wouldn't let them play without sub support, because they couldn't handle the cone movement. But in their range ( I cut them off at 200Hz) they play x-tremly clear and loud if demanded. They can handle 150 watts rms each in combination with a frequency cross cover unit. As a stand alone unit they only handle 75 watts rms.
Oh I believe it sounds amazing. What drivers are you using?
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2001 Cherokee Limited My Build Thread: 6" IRO Long Arms and coils, JKS ACOS, OME 4" Leaf springs w/1.5" Teraflex shackles, RC Shackle Relocation Brackets, ~34" BFG KM2, RC Quick Discos, Fox 2.0 IPF Shocks, Rear Disk Brakes, 60mm Bored TB, Cobra Injectors, Rugged Ridge Header, 2.5" Exhaust with Borla Muffler
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Old 11-21-2009, 03:59 PM   #21
Deezelweazel
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JBL GTi 408: 2" coil on a 4" driver, Titanium 25mm tweeter
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Old 11-21-2009, 04:24 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Deezelweazel View Post
JBL GTi 408: 2" coil on a 4" driver, Titanium 25mm tweeter
I know JBL makes some good stuff, I had a JBL BPX500.1 and that was really awesome. It put out more power at 4 ohms than 2 ohms lol.
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1999 Cherokee Classic: R.I.P. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2313036

2001 Cherokee Limited My Build Thread: 6" IRO Long Arms and coils, JKS ACOS, OME 4" Leaf springs w/1.5" Teraflex shackles, RC Shackle Relocation Brackets, ~34" BFG KM2, RC Quick Discos, Fox 2.0 IPF Shocks, Rear Disk Brakes, 60mm Bored TB, Cobra Injectors, Rugged Ridge Header, 2.5" Exhaust with Borla Muffler
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Old 11-22-2009, 12:52 AM   #23
XJ Jay
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so whats filling in below your 200hz HPF. please dont tell me you have your sub playing up to 200hz. agreed that the install and set up can make or break the overall sound.
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4" RC/ProComp lift, Serious long arms, 33" Cooper STTs, Soft 8s, 4.56s, Aussie locked D30, LSD 8.25, IRO adj track bar and HD Tie Rod, IRO HnT SYE, home made discos, recovery and sliders
HERSBlack 08 JK Unlimited X, Stock for now, 2 1/2" and 33's to come
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Old 11-22-2009, 01:02 PM   #24
Deezelweazel
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Primary goal was: no cutting of door boards.
Second goal was: invisible amp install without loosing space.

6.5" kick subs mounted invisible below the seats. They have to cover the sub freq below 200Hz at the moment.

sub is missing- have the box, but it is hard to find the right woofer.
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