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Unread 02-23-2005, 10:41 AM   #1
wyldejackyl
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Tuffy stereo console + system install ?'s

Ordered the Tuffy today. I have a set of Kenwood 6.5" speakers for the soundbar, and the Alpine 9843 MP3 HU. I have an Alpine X..F240 amp that'll be arriving today.

My plan: Enlarge the holes in the soundbar with a grindstone to accept the 6.5"s. The interior is already coated with rubber undercoating, which finally has tacked up enough not to rub off. I have polyfill to put in there too. How much polyfill, ,and is there an easier way to cut the speaker holes larger? I also want to paint the speaker grilles all black for more of a stealth look (they are silver now). Can I just spray over them with Fusion or is there prep involved? I'm going to pull the factory wires for everything and run my own larger (14ga) speaker wire and solder it right to the speakers. I'm going to run a set of wires controlled by a dash switch for the dome light too.

I want to mount the amp under the seat. Does it matter if it's upside down? Someone told me there might be cooling issues..

The power is going to come via an 8ga wire hooked right to the battery terminal (still have to buy one). I'm assuming the fuse will be on the firewall someplace. Where do i run this wire so it ends up right in the center of underneath the dash? Is there anything wrong with tapping this line to feed the HU as well since it's going to be in the Tuffy?

Preout RCA on the HU to the amp..speaker wires all go to the amp..did I leave anything out?

Oh, where to get material to fab my own speaker adapters (5.25) for the dash? And what's a good set of 5.25" speakers to buy for 40w RMS that aren't too expensive but don't sound like ***? I was told to avoid the Sonys..

I think that's all. Any one do an install in a Tuffy? Anything I should know about before I begin the install?

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Unread 02-23-2005, 12:20 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
Ordered the Tuffy today. I have a set of Kenwood 6.5" speakers for the soundbar, and the Alpine 9843 MP3 HU. I have an Alpine X..F240 amp that'll be arriving today.

My plan: Enlarge the holes in the soundbar with a grindstone to accept the 6.5"s.
You probably won't have to enlarge the holes them selves, just drill new screw holes most likley. You might have to tweak the holes slightly but nothing major.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
The interior is already coated with rubber undercoating, which finally has tacked up enough not to rub off. I have polyfill to put in there too. How much polyfill,
Just enough to fill the area without stuffing it in... Fill it loosely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
,and is there an easier way to cut the speaker holes larger?
Again, doubt you'll have to but if you do, jig-saw or shears or nibbler...

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
I also want to paint the speaker grilles all black for more of a stealth look (they are silver now). Can I just spray over them with Fusion or is there prep involved?
If you are going to paint anything, you need to first lightly sand it with a fine grain sandpaper to rough it up slightly and then you can shoot it with primer and paint. Now if your using some of those new adhere to plastic type paints, they often jsut require the plastic to be clean of contaminates. So instead of sanding, just prepair with whatever the paint recommends and let dry and then paint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
I'm going to pull the factory wires for everything and run my own larger (14ga) speaker wire and solder it right to the speakers. I'm going to run a set of wires controlled by a dash switch for the dome light too.

I want to mount the amp under the seat. Does it matter if it's upside down? Someone told me there might be cooling issues..
Heat rises. The circuit boards in amps are on the bottom usually. Some amps have issues if they are mounted upside down due to this issue. (infact, the majority of them do). Their top surface is normally the head-fin surface and if it doesn't get the head conducted to it then it's not very effective. It depends on amp design. To be safe, I'd recommend against it and very rarely mount an amp inverted myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
The power is going to come via an 8ga wire hooked right to the battery terminal (still have to buy one). I'm assuming the fuse will be on the firewall someplace.
The fuse should be within the first 18" of the power wire comming from the battery. You can physically put it anywhere you like as it's as close to the battery as realistically possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
Where do i run this wire so it ends up right in the center of underneath the dash? Is there anything wrong with tapping this line to feed the HU as well since it's going to be in the Tuffy?
If you want to feed the amp and the head off the same master power wire, that's fine, but you should run it through a distribution block in that case with each item on it's own fuse (along with the main fuse at the battery). Also, depending on power requirements of the devices in question (probably not in this case) you might need to upgrade the master wire from the battery to the distribution block to handle the whole load.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
Preout RCA on the HU to the amp..speaker wires all go to the amp..did I leave anything out?
small signal wire for Remote-turn-on signal from head unit to amp (16 AWG is more than enough, it's not current heavy, just a 12V signal). If your unit has an amp signal or remote turn-on lead AND a power antenna output, do NOT use the power-antenna output. ONLY use the power antenna output to feed the amps if there is no other alternative. The reason is that many new units will only power the power-antenna output during AM/FM playback.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
Oh, where to get material to fab my own speaker adapters (5.25) for the dash?
Home Depot has everything you need.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
And what's a good set of 5.25" speakers to buy for 40w RMS that aren't too expensive but don't sound like ***? I was told to avoid the Sonys..
That totally depends on what you already bought for the rear... I'd get the matching Kenwood 5.25" model for the 6.5" speakers you already have for the best possible sound. Otherwise if you mix/match brands, you run the risk of getting very ugly sound due to bad voice matching properties of the speakers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
I think that's all. Any one do an install in a Tuffy? Anything I should know about before I begin the install?
Wear gloves when putting it in...
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Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 02-23-2005, 01:17 PM   #3
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Why gloves?

I will see on the dizzy block for the HU.

What shoudl I get at home depot..sheet metal, or do they sell plastic sheeting there too? Last time I fabbed something up with plexi it melted behind the jigsaw blade and fused back together..make it really hard to make the cut work.

Thanks for the head's up on the signal wire...I forgot all about it. I won't mount the amp upside down then, but I might fab up a steel shield or something so some ****** cant' go at it with a screwdriver. I'm thinking of taking some stainless hex bolts and machining them so they are round and putting a lockwasher under them, and then tightening them from the other end..then mounting the whole thing under the seat. That way, the thief would have to remove the seat entirely to get the amp out.
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Unread 02-23-2005, 01:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
Why gloves?

I will see on the dizzy block for the HU.
I always seem to find a sharp edge somewhere...

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
What shoudl I get at home depot..sheet metal, or do they sell plastic sheeting there too?
Either one. I prefer heavy guage metal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
Last time I fabbed something up with plexi it melted behind the jigsaw blade and fused back together..make it really hard to make the cut work.
LOL! been there, done that...

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl

Thanks for the head's up on the signal wire...I forgot all about it. I won't mount the amp upside down then, but I might fab up a steel shield or something so some ****** cant' go at it with a screwdriver. I'm thinking of taking some stainless hex bolts and machining them so they are round and putting a lockwasher under them, and then tightening them from the other end..then mounting the whole thing under the seat. That way, the thief would have to remove the seat entirely to get the amp out.
That would work fine... You can also use 12V fans for more air if needed. (common from computer stores.) Just run them through a relay and a fuse like you would some lights or something and trigger the relay with the remote-turn-on lead. They don't take too much power but you want them on their own circuit cause they are a bit noisy...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 02-23-2005, 01:39 PM   #5
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Yeah, I have 7 fans in my computer at home, and I think 4 of them are set to run on hi at all times..sounds like a jet engine.

Is Scosche a good brand - they sell their stuff alot of places and it seems affordable. this is a jeep i'm not going to break the bank just want something that sounds good with the top down.

Do you know where I can get tamper resistant sheet metal screws to secure both the dash speaker covers and the grilles on the overhead soundbar?

The paint I want to use is Fusion..requires an ammonia wash and it should stick right to the plastic..
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Unread 02-23-2005, 03:07 PM   #6
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Where should the 8ga power wire pass thru the firewall so it won't get chafed or otherwise damaged? I don't want leaks either..
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Unread 02-23-2005, 03:37 PM   #7
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About every receiver on the market has a 30 deg max incline for proper disc operation. The Tuffy is 75 or so for a YJ and 90 I think for a TJ. I ended up with a Kenwood that seems mostly happy at the 75 deg in my YJ. I don't know how the Alpine will act. Good luck.
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Unread 02-23-2005, 06:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
Where should the 8ga power wire pass thru the firewall so it won't get chafed or otherwise damaged? I don't want leaks either..
If you cannot find an existing rubber grommet to use, simply get a new grommet for the right guae wire your using and drill a new hole for it through the firewall. Be sure to check both sides of the firewall to be sure you dont go through anything else though. It's not nearly as hard as it sounds.

Here's one from crutchfield (higher quality) for 8 AWG wire but you can get simple push in rubber ones from walmart or other stores also that will work also. They are a little harder to fuss with though but work once in place.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-27Ytmog...3750&I=211FWB8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 02-23-2005, 11:11 PM   #9
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Yeah, I'd lube the thing up good with WD-40 and that should do the trick. Works on radiator hoses and other rubber fittings..
Hey don, I know about the 90 angle, and basically, I have my finger's crossed. I have heard good things from other Tuffy owners about both Alpine units, and the Clarion DXZ545MP. Since I couldn't find a clarion near me for a competitive price, I went with the alpine. I will let you know if it works out, but I think it will. I don't think I'd be using the CD player if I was on a truly rutted and totally bumpy road, just to be safe.
Worst case scenario, I end up putting the HU in the dash, and I put a CB in the Tuffy - no big worry. Thanks for the head's up though, I almost forgot about the angle problem.

I do indeed need to make the holes in the soundbar bigger. THe baskets on the kenwoods I bought won't let me fit them in the stock holes, even if I selectively grind away at them (the holes, not the speakers).

What kind of battery clamp should I get? Do I need to get a whole clamp, or is there a way I can hook it up with a ring terminal? I ask only because I'm trying to eliminate all the extras I don't think I'll absolutely need, and a bling bling gold terminal to me seems to be a waste.
I got my 5.25's tonight so now all I have to do is fab up some mounts for those and start working on designing the amp enclosure. I got the amp today and took a look at it..the only thing I don't like is the 4 mounting points seem to be chinsy plastic. I guess I'll just have to armor it up. I'll mount it right side up under the driver's seat..and have to create some kind of sling to keep it from being picked at. At the moment I have no lathe available to me to turn custom fasteners..so I'll have to be inventive in making it difficult/impossible for thieves to get at it.
Like I said before..my goal is to hook it up and get all the settings right, then remove the seat, mount the amp, and have it so the only way to get the amp out is to remove the seat and flp it over and remove some fasteners underneath. I want some sort of metal baffle too to protect the amp from "angry stabs" caused by the frustrated thief that can't get the thing out. I'd also like to put some torx or triangle socket screws to hold on my dash panels and my overhead bezels for the soundbar speakers.

Anyone have a set of old crappy *** 6.5" diameter Jensen or other generic grilles they can sell me? The less flashy I make this the better. Stealth is the key word in Chicago.
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Unread 02-24-2005, 07:36 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
Yeah, I'd lube the thing up good with WD-40 and that should do the trick. Works on radiator hoses and other rubber fittings..
Hey don, I know about the 90 angle, and basically, I have my finger's crossed. I have heard good things from other Tuffy owners about both Alpine units, and the Clarion DXZ545MP. Since I couldn't find a clarion near me for a competitive price, I went with the alpine. I will let you know if it works out, but I think it will. I don't think I'd be using the CD player if I was on a truly rutted and totally bumpy road, just to be safe.
Worst case scenario, I end up putting the HU in the dash, and I put a CB in the Tuffy - no big worry. Thanks for the head's up though, I almost forgot about the angle problem.

I do indeed need to make the holes in the soundbar bigger. THe baskets on the kenwoods I bought won't let me fit them in the stock holes, even if I selectively grind away at them (the holes, not the speakers).

What kind of battery clamp should I get? Do I need to get a whole clamp, or is there a way I can hook it up with a ring terminal? I ask only because I'm trying to eliminate all the extras I don't think I'll absolutely need, and a bling bling gold terminal to me seems to be a waste.
You can use a large ring terminal on the end of the power wire and hook it to the existing battery terminal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
I got my 5.25's tonight so now all I have to do is fab up some mounts for those and start working on designing the amp enclosure. I got the amp today and took a look at it..the only thing I don't like is the 4 mounting points seem to be chinsy plastic. I guess I'll just have to armor it up. I'll mount it right side up under the driver's seat..and have to create some kind of sling to keep it from being picked at. At the moment I have no lathe available to me to turn custom fasteners..so I'll have to be inventive in making it difficult/impossible for thieves to get at it.
Home Depot again... They have custom machine screws of all different types including security bits. They might have something your looking for. If not, step up to a full hardware store for even more selection.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
Like I said before..my goal is to hook it up and get all the settings right, then remove the seat, mount the amp, and have it so the only way to get the amp out is to remove the seat and flp it over and remove some fasteners underneath. I want some sort of metal baffle too to protect the amp from "angry stabs" caused by the frustrated thief that can't get the thing out. I'd also like to put some torx or triangle socket screws to hold on my dash panels and my overhead bezels for the soundbar speakers.

Anyone have a set of old crappy *** 6.5" diameter Jensen or other generic grilles they can sell me? The less flashy I make this the better. Stealth is the key word in Chicago.
Well, you can always use spacers and an adapter plate (home made such as I did out of 1/4" MDF and TEE-nuts) and use the factory 5.25" grills for the full-on stealth effect.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 02-24-2005, 08:02 AM   #11
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Where in Home Depot is the security screws. I've never seen them there before, nor at a regular hardware store either. I thought they were a special purchase item.
I don't know about the adapter plate...I don't want much sticking down below the soundbar. I'd rather just paint the grilles black and call it a day. One thing I did think of though, was to use socket head cap screws to affix the speaker to the soundbar..just get 'em long enough to go all the way thru the bar and put nuts and lockwashers on the top. I doubt any theif is going to think they go all the way thru, and even if they did..they probably don't have a set of metric hex keys on them to get the things off.
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Unread 02-24-2005, 08:09 AM   #12
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Nothing sticks below the sound bar (well, obviously anyhow...) It looks 99% stock. Just 1/2" taller or so. The cloth hides the adapter and height. but if you can get other grills that fit and do not interfere with tweeter protrusion and all, then that would be diecent and probably fool the average bear too.

In Home Depot, in the row with the bolts and nuts and nails and such.. The small drawers of stuff somewhere in the row (blue in ours) has alot of that stuff including one-way bits, torx, security torx, triangle, square, etc... in various lengths. Also there are the spacers I used alot and other parts you might need. Lots of neet stuff there. Though rarely is it kept in order and they are always short a few on what I need and I have to have them order a few more but... It's handy... Same with hardware stores.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 02-24-2005, 10:16 AM   #13
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I will check out those bins definitely..I hope they ahve the drivers for those screws! If not I know microcenter has them for computers..they sell a whole set of security bits.
Okay, I get what you are saying about the spacers now. So you basically just "standoff" the speaker from the soundbar by using sleeves or something to pass the screws thru, or stacking washers or what? I'm going to check out the "exotic" hardware aisles and see what I can find. Hopefully I can hit up both a home depot and an ace on the way home from work today.
Even if the speakers can't be concealed completely, as long as I can make them difficult to remove..it should be enough for around here. I have a clean shot at my jeep from my bedroom window, and I purposely leave it open, even in winter, so they know I'm listening. I figure either a gun control sticker or an alarm sticker for now might be enough of a deterrent, but eventually I'm going to need some sort of an alarm..a LOUD one, or one with a pager. Can you recommend anything easy to install, simple, for someone on a budget? I don't need any frills here..people around here don't steal cars, they vandalize them, at worst.
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Unread 02-24-2005, 10:20 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
I will check out those bins definitely..I hope they ahve the drivers for those screws! If not I know microcenter has them for computers..they sell a whole set of security bits.
Okay, I get what you are saying about the spacers now. So you basically just "standoff" the speaker from the soundbar by using sleeves or something to pass the screws thru, or stacking washers or what?
yup. Spacers from the same drawer in home depot. I get them slightly large then cut them down to size with a dremmel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyldejackyl
I'm going to check out the "exotic" hardware aisles and see what I can find. Hopefully I can hit up both a home depot and an ace on the way home from work today.
Even if the speakers can't be concealed completely, as long as I can make them difficult to remove..it should be enough for around here. I have a clean shot at my jeep from my bedroom window, and I purposely leave it open, even in winter, so they know I'm listening. I figure either a gun control sticker or an alarm sticker for now might be enough of a deterrent, but eventually I'm going to need some sort of an alarm..a LOUD one, or one with a pager. Can you recommend anything easy to install, simple, for someone on a budget? I don't need any frills here..people around here don't steal cars, they vandalize them, at worst.
Any quality alarm will do ok. Most alarm sirens border on the legal limit for volume anyhow. Any DEI alarm would be a diecent choice and there are some of those that are not too expensive.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 02-24-2005, 10:33 AM   #15
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Hey do they sell grommets at HD too?
Are they called a different name?
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