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Unread 01-15-2005, 07:25 AM   #1
BigwillXJ
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subwoofer

hey guys, I am considering buying a subwoofer and I think I know what I want. this sub (alpine type r)sub and this ampamp. Do u think it is a good idea? I will b wiring them in a 2ohm load. thanks

-oh and it will be a sealed box

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Unread 01-16-2005, 01:03 PM   #2
orangez
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looks to be a match made in Heaven to me. I would check eBay and see if you can get either one of those pieces cheaper. I have bought all of my stereo stuff and all the pieces of other peoples systems that I have set up for them. Just go with someone who has a bunch of good feedback.

HERE....

I did the hard part for you. half the cost.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...743666232&rd=1
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Unread 01-16-2005, 02:47 PM   #3
C2U5H
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Looks good to me. Just make sure you don't turn the gain up too high on the amp...you're going to be pushing 50W over the sub's RMS limit. As long as you wire in parallel to get your 2Ω load on the amp.

I also definitely recommend buying your stuff off of eBay. A lot of people don't like it, but I've bought at least 6 pieces of car audio equipement off there--no problems. Shipping's usually a little slow, but you get the item for much less than MSRP. I recentely bought my headunit (Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP--MSRP ~$600, got it for ~$300 brand new off eBay) and front speakers (5.25" Kenwood eXcelon KFC-XR501 coaxials--MSRP ~$200, got them for ~$70 brand new off of eBay).

There's what I think,
~J
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Unread 01-17-2005, 09:21 AM   #4
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As always, I can't recommend it. However, a quick fix would be to see if you can find an older MRD-M300 instead of the 301. IT wil lsave you the 50W overage problem.

With that said. I'll say also that knowing some of Alpine's stuff, that sub would likely be ok with that amp. But again, being who I am I can't openly recommend it. The M300 would be a perfect match.
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Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 01-18-2005, 07:23 PM   #5
BigwillXJ
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oh most deff the ebay deal. i found the sub for 90 and the amp for 150. so thats the route i will b taking. well from what ive heard when u put a sub in a sealed box you need more power to compensate so i thought the 50 extra watts would hurt to bad. thanks for the input.
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Unread 01-18-2005, 07:26 PM   #6
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Dude thats too damn expensive for 175 watts.
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Unread 01-19-2005, 07:56 AM   #7
SirGCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunmudder
Dude thats too damn expensive for 175 watts.
$150? for an M300 or M301 is a steal. They retail upwards of $300 and MSRP at $360. And as wired, it would be 300 or 350 respectively very clear and crisp watts of power at 2-ohms load in a very nice packate with tons of sound control. There's more to an amp than just the power it's rated at.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 01-19-2005, 02:58 PM   #8
cajunmudder
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Yeah but still, look at like directed or kicker or something, they are way cheaper, sound the same or better, and are louder.
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Unread 01-19-2005, 03:00 PM   #9
cajunmudder
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http://ikesound.com/category-category_id/55 look there
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Unread 01-19-2005, 06:29 PM   #10
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Don't worry about the extra 50w, Type R's can take ALOT more, they love 500w. The only thing kicker has that is louder is L5's and L7's...VR's...eh close. The R's definetly will sound better than anything kicker. Go for it, buy on ebay.
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Unread 01-19-2005, 09:34 PM   #11
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You can do whatever you want...and run the SWR-1241D at any wattage you want...just remember that there's a reason they have specs. They're not just numbers...they tell you how the sub runs optimally and sounds the best.

Sure, you could run the 1241D at 500W RMS...but it won't love it. More like, "Why the hell you sendin' me all this wattage! I only need 100-300W RMS!!"

Yes, it can handle 1000W max. That's only for short bursts though--any more than that and you're talking about voice coil damage or any other number of things. Don't think because you're "only" giving the sub 300W RMS that it's not going to rock...that's a lot of power. And running with a sensitivity of 87dB, it's not the MOST efficient, but it's uses that 300W fairly well.

You can do whatever you want...I mean it's you're sub...but believe me: you're giving it 200W more power than it's supposed to if you pump 500W RMS into it.

~J
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Unread 01-19-2005, 10:03 PM   #12
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i would highly reccommend against running your amp @ 2ohms.....when you do this your dampening factor drops significantly....and they dont spec that....
DP is the amps ability to accuratly control the cones movement!....thus the higher the better.....if you need to drop to 2 ohms to get the desired wattage...you would be better just getting an amp with more 4 ohm bridged power and wireing your woofers accordingly...at 2 ohms your amp will get hotter and the Df will be low...and as the amp gets up toward meltdown temp the df drops also...this is a fact. it is caused by the amp trying to correct for the higher temp by pulling more amps and rising the voltage on the output transistors...and the transistors thus loose efficenty. the reason manufacturers sell these "cheeter" amps is mainly for competition use....where you are classed by 4 ohm power....remember the Orion HCCA amps....ie..the HCCA 225.....25 X2 but at 1 ohm it made much more and was .5 ohm stable....but not for all day....and didnt sound all that good either....
you will hardly ever blow a speaker with too much power...its the distortion that kills it.... and DP plays a big role....when an amp gets hot it no longer makes a pure AC wave...it cuts off the top and bottom of the sine-wave....( clipping )
when this happens you speaker dosent move and the coil sees a tremendus voltage, while it is stopped and not moving, and the coil igets burned....the coil needs to be moving at all times...this is how it is cooled....
sorry for the lecture....but you need to know...just my .02
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Unread 01-20-2005, 07:36 AM   #13
C2U5H
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Thanks for the info soho, I'm still learning myself. I'll still be running my amp @ 2Ω though because I can't afford one that puts out 600Wx1 RMS @ 4Ω! I'm still nursing my money-tree.

~J
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Unread 01-20-2005, 07:50 AM   #14
SirGCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunmudder
Yeah but still, look at like directed or kicker or something, they are way cheaper, sound the same or better, and are louder.
A quality Kicker unit is going to be just as much if not more than the alpine. Directed doesn't impress me very much in the high-quality arena. But, you get what you pay for...

Quote:
Originally Posted by rubi-soho
i would highly reccommend against running your amp @ 2ohms.....when you do this your dampening factor drops significantly....and they dont spec that.... <snipped>
You know a way to run a single 4-ohm DVC sub in 4-ohm mode? Share it with us.. you'll enlighten the world... (just giving ya a hard time..) The only way to wire that sub as such would be to a 2-channel amp and each coil on it's own channel. But you'd be shooting yourself in the foot doing that as balancing the channels becomes alot more critical and you go back to a stereo source unless you can force a mono signal to the amp entirely.. (would be bad on the coils)...

Amps today do a nice job at cone control and running them under 4-ohms isn't nearly as bad as it used to be. The only real downside that still exists on modern high-quality amps is the signal to noise reduction. Although I'd still hesitate before going under 1-ohm even on .25-ohm stable amps before doing alot of homework. 2-ohms, espically on quality gear should be no trouble at all.

But, this does hold true on cheaper gear still so it might be an issue. Again, you get what you pay for...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 01-20-2005, 12:00 PM   #15
C2U5H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
You know a way to run a single 4-ohm DVC sub in 4-ohm mode?
....can't...think.......information overload.....

Thanks, never thought of that Sir...still learning how to consider EVERY SINGLE BIT of information....sensitivity....dampening effect...internal amp wiring....resistance....I should make a list so when I look at an amp I can examine it fully w/o missing aything. I think I'm still gonna' run the Pioneer Premier TS-W1500SPL on either the Alpine MRD-M501 or the Pioneer GM-D510M, though. Can't find anything wrong with them

I'll prolly end up with the Pioneer b/c it's cheaper....but taking your repeated "you get what you pay for"....it's leaving me unbalanced. Anything WRONG with the GM-D510M?
~$170 on eBay as opposed to the MRD-M501's ~$250 price tag (both brand new) on eBay

Wow, did I just steal this thread....

Thanks again,
~J
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