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Stock Subwoofer replacement Found!!
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#46 | ||
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Moderator
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That's not low... 125W is pretty stout for that size sub... The stock sub, at 1-ohm is only ~ 75W. So that amp at 4-ohms is going to be ~ 20W... There's like a $10 (I think pyramid) out there that works OK for a stock replacement. It's also 4-ohms but since it's made relatively low-end (low power also), the stock amp can control it better. Plus it's cheap, that doesn't suck.
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Sir G. Cal - 2k Sahara TJ Living and loving on borrowed time. Life with Multiple Sclerosis. My MS/Life blog, Audio and Electronic write-ups, project how-tos, pictures, stories, and more. Quote:
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#47 |
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Registered User
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how do you get to the speaker? how do you remove that how center console? all i see is one screw under the cup holder area. help me out.
i never hear my sub, im beginning to think there isnt one there so i want to see if there is, if there isnt im going to put one in there. |
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#48 |
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What day is this?
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=579589&highlight=removing+center+ console
Good write up with pics on how to remove/install. Is this the best way for wiring the replacement sub to the factory amp? "I used GCJoes suggestion for wiring the sub, and hooked up grey + and black -. Also, notice in the above picture that I taped up the unused wires and then taped them to the harness." |
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#49 |
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Registered User
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Since no one posted on this thread what to do with the wiring, I'll take the opportunity to do so now:
I have an 03 TJ. When I pulled out the stock sub, there were 4 wires. Two wires, the red and black wire, were attached to one part of the sub. Another two wires, the gray and brown wire, were attached to the other part of the sub. I bought a Kicker Comp VT 65 that had only two nodules: red and black. Here's what you do: Take the grey wire and attach it to the red nodule. Take the brown wire and attach it to the black nodule. Gray is +, brown is - (as per GIJoe's post) Clip the original red and black wires and do not let them touch each other. And there you go! Done! |
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#50 |
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Registered User
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Thank you Nishbot. For some reason everyone that does a thread on this subject skips right over the wiring part.
Thanks, Mrcln1
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05 Double Black Rubicon Stock For Now! Black Jeep Society |
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#51 |
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Registered User
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hey USMC i have an 05. so for that kicker sub you took the two pos/hots, sod them together into one, and same with the ground/neg type into one and then hooked it up to the sub and thats it?
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2005 Unlimited Rubicon Hard N Soft Tops, Clayton Long Arm on RE Coils, Warn Bumper/Tire Carrier, Warn Winch N Bumper, Currie Steering, JKS Quicker Disconnects, JKS Front Trac Bar, Bilsteins, CO2 System..Yada Yada Yada |
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#52 |
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Registered User
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THANKS Nishbot!! Just got it hooked up and it works. Not huge power but enough until I get my new Alpine Amp installed in May.
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#53 |
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Registered User
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will that sub/wiring work for a 2005 LJ rubi?
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2005 Unlimited Rubicon Hard N Soft Tops, Clayton Long Arm on RE Coils, Warn Bumper/Tire Carrier, Warn Winch N Bumper, Currie Steering, JKS Quicker Disconnects, JKS Front Trac Bar, Bilsteins, CO2 System..Yada Yada Yada |
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#54 |
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Registered User
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alot of unknowns there. if it uses the same amp and wiring it should. i think the only way to tell is to get to the factory sub and look at how it's wired. I will say this. With the JL sub, the factory amp is pretty under powered. it works but I definitely plan on getting an after market amp within 60 days.
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#55 |
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What day is this?
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Just to update this. Bazooka makes a replacment sub that is 2 ohm and sells for around $50.
http://www.sasbazooka.com/products/mobile/Parts-C38/Component-Woofers-S116/WF621-5DV---6-inch-2-ohm-replacement-woofer-P261 |
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#56 |
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Registered User
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man I wanna know about wiring for an 05 since im not the best in the wiring section. as soon as i know the wiring i wanna order that kicker, my stock is blown since i bought it
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2005 Unlimited Rubicon Hard N Soft Tops, Clayton Long Arm on RE Coils, Warn Bumper/Tire Carrier, Warn Winch N Bumper, Currie Steering, JKS Quicker Disconnects, JKS Front Trac Bar, Bilsteins, CO2 System..Yada Yada Yada |
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#57 |
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What day is this?
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I'd try the bazooka replacement. I've got the Kicker and its so-so. I'm sure its underpowered with the stock amp. It does sound better than a stock blown speaker and if you've got someone else that needs one you can split the cost since it's a pair.
I'm guessing the ohm's have something to do with it, but I'm no expert with electricity. |
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#58 |
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Registered User
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Just take it out and see how the stock one is wired. It's a fair chance that its the same is the older TJs.
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#59 |
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Registered User
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The Bazooka will do better than the Kicker as far as wiring is concerned. The factory sub is DVC 2 ohm wired to run at 1 ohm. The bazooka will match that pattern and should be a much easier install. If I remember correctly from my own replacement bazooka wasn't forthcoming with their specs so I wasn't sure whether the enclosure size would be okay (it should be). The only other sub to run DVC 2 ohm was the elemental designs eu-700 (they also had a version marketing under 7kv2) which is now the e3.6. I used this sub for my personal upgrade but it requires modification of the enclosure since it's a little larger than the 6.5" factory sub.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?products_id=33 |
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#60 |
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Registered User
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so the bazooka would be a bolt in replacement? no wiring issues? if so what colors go to what?
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2005 Unlimited Rubicon Hard N Soft Tops, Clayton Long Arm on RE Coils, Warn Bumper/Tire Carrier, Warn Winch N Bumper, Currie Steering, JKS Quicker Disconnects, JKS Front Trac Bar, Bilsteins, CO2 System..Yada Yada Yada |
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