SirGCal's Soundbar Solution

TJ Unlimited · 05-14-2005, 10:14 PM

Gotta give props where they're due

I took the pods off my bar, sprayed the inside with sound deadening rubberized undercoating and filled em with poly-fil. The difference was night and fricken day. I have a Pioneer head unit that puts out about 23W RMS per channel feeding Sony 5.25's that take 50W RMS. The speakers used to distort at about 35. Now I can go up to 50 before they distort. the sound is so much clearer and the bass has more punch.

Thanks for the fix

Next I'm gonna do one of two things

Put an amp in the speaker compartment of my Tuffy console to drive a 10" sub box in the back.

or

Put an 4 channel amp in to drive the soundbar speakers (that actually sound good now) and drive a 10" sub box in the back.

I have a '05 Unlimited so a thin truck box will fit nicely and leave me enough room for gear.

**SirGCal** · 05-18-2005, 10:40 AM

Yup. Stoping the resonation and holding the rear wave can work wounders. The pods are notorious for bad resonation and some rubber really helps them out. Glad you like the results.

waterlogged · 05-18-2005, 12:26 PM

[QUOTE=TJ Unlimited]Gotta give props where they're due

I took the pods off my bar, sprayed the inside with sound deadening rubberized undercoating and filled em with poly-fil.

What type of spray did you use and where can you get it?

**SirGCal** · 05-18-2005, 12:31 PM

You can use a spray on sound material like dynamat spray on stuff or the cheaper option is just rubberized undercoating from walmart for like $4 a can or so (one can will do it.). Just put on a nice thick coat (better yet, multiple thinner layers making a nice thick layer) of it on the inside of the pod or bar (be sure to take it off the vehicle and mask off the outside first as this stuff does NOT come off and tends to go everywhere...). But it's worth the effort.

erickpl · 05-18-2005, 12:57 PM

Would you recommend this for sound bars too? I have an edgeauto.com soundbar and I have done nothing to it since mounting. I know I need to do the polyfill, but would the spray on stuff work/help for a non-plastic soundbar (like wood or fiberglass)?

TJ Unlimited · 05-18-2005, 03:22 PM

I really don't know much about the sound bars, but I dont see how it could hurt. Make sure you use thin coats cause if you put it on too thick it takes forever to cure all the way through. Several thin coats about every 20 or 30 minutes is the ticket.

**SirGCal** · 05-18-2005, 03:28 PM

I though I added bars to my statement also but if I didn't, appologies. But yes, I do the inside of pods and bars alike.

sgrim80 · 05-19-2005, 12:29 PM

Sirgcal, Do you have a writeup on your soundbar (stealth) installation project? I'd like to do it but I can't tell from the pictures what screws to what and all the parts you used. Could you let me know a required parts list and if the speaker screws to the soundbar or that piece of wood?

RubiconSS · 05-19-2005, 12:42 PM

Do the pods open up once off or do you have to just go thru the hole??

Sounds like it would work for the inside of sub-enclosures. Killing cabinet resonances is a good thing, make the thing sonically disappear.

TJ Unlimited · 05-19-2005, 02:01 PM

You have to spray through the holes. Everything comes apart and goes back together real easy. Two torx bolts hold the pods onto the bar and there are 3 phillips head screws for both the speakers and the lights. There is a wiring harness recessed outside the pod so disconnecting them is sinch.

**SirGCal** · 05-19-2005, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgrim80

Sirgcal, Do you have a writeup on your soundbar (stealth) installation project? I'd like to do it but I can't tell from the pictures what screws to what and all the parts you used. Could you let me know a required parts list and if the speaker screws to the soundbar or that piece of wood?

I don't have a more detailed writeup other than the pictures but I can easily explain it to you.

First I prepaired the bar with rubberized undercoating and polyfill. Then I dropped in the speakers (in my case I had an adapter ring for it but you don't need that one.).

Then I topped it off with the wooden ring I made (identical to the adapter ring underneith actually) and used aluminum spacers to make it stand off of the speaker so the cone had plenty of clearence. The screws go through the wood adapter, through the spacers and hold the speaker down.

Then I pulled the cloth back into position and cut away the excess and reattached the factory grill to the wood adapter ring.

Make more sence now?

05-19-2005, 12:29 PM	#8
sgrim80 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Neffs, PA (Allentown) Posts: 753 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Sirgcal, Do you have a writeup on your soundbar (stealth) installation project? I'd like to do it but I can't tell from the pictures what screws to what and all the parts you used. Could you let me know a required parts list and if the speaker screws to the soundbar or that piece of wood? __________________ 2002 Wrangler Sport 4.0L 3 Speed Auto DPG Offroad "Ultimate TJ" Old Man Emu lift kit 33x12.50 BFG All Terrains American Racing Diamond Back 15x8" rims 1.25" JKS Body Lift and 1" JKS Budget Motor Mount Lift 4.10 Gears with Alloy USA Grande 35 w/ OX Locker

05-19-2005, 12:42 PM	#9
RubiconSS Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Poconos, Pa Posts: 2,126 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Do the pods open up once off or do you have to just go thru the hole?? Sounds like it would work for the inside of sub-enclosures. Killing cabinet resonances is a good thing, make the thing sonically disappear. __________________ '05 Rubicon (to go) '01 CamaroSS(to go fast)

05-18-2005, 12:26 PM	#3
waterlogged Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Central Florida Posts: 68 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	[QUOTE=TJ Unlimited]Gotta give props where they're due I took the pods off my bar, sprayed the inside with sound deadening rubberized undercoating and filled em with poly-fil. What type of spray did you use and where can you get it?