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Replace center console sub woofer

2K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  Jeff753 
#1 ·
I've searched and read a bunch of post about this but they all are from years ago and reference 6-6 1/2" woofers that are no longer available. I barely understand the Oem Bridge Tied Load amp (that is also in the center consol) and what it will handle.
I can find a 6 3/4" DVC 2ohm KICKER mud range bass but it says it wants 150 watts to drive it. I doubt the BTL can come close to that. So. I have a new dash head unit, new speakers and want to plan on addressing the old paper (possibly torn) stock sub.

What sat ye? What sub? What amp (if needed). I don't want an amp for the speakers. They are only rated at 35rms front and 45rms roll bar

I'm also going to poly fill the speaker holes but had to order replacement LED bulbs for the two interior lights in the roll bar....the current lights get hot!!!!
 
#4 ·
The OE factory sub woofer has two pairs of 2 ohm voice coils in it. Basically instead of the speaker having just two lugs to make connections to, it has four.

Those two pairs of 2 ohm voice coils need to be wired in parallel with each other. + to +, and another jumper going - to -. That reduces the overall speaker's impedance down to just 1 ohm. Then you connect the amplifier speaker output wiring to either pair of lugs on the speaker.

The subwoofer's amplifier develops 75 watts which is plenty for that speaker, but only if the speaker it is connected to has that 1 ohm impedance it was designed to work into. If you go with a speaker that won't give you that 1 ohm impedance, the amp won't be able to develop its full 75 watt power.
 
#5 ·
The OE factory sub woofer has two pairs of 2 ohm voice coils in it. Basically instead of the speaker having just two lugs to make connections to, it has four.

Those two pairs of 2 ohm voice coils need to be wired in parallel with each other. + to +, and another jumper going - to -. That reduces the overall speaker's impedance down to just 1 ohm. Then you connect the amplifier speaker output wiring to either pair of lugs on the speaker.

The subwoofer's amplifier develops 75 watts which is plenty for that speaker, but only if the speaker it is connected to has that 1 ohm impedance it was designed to work into. If you go with a speaker that won't give you that 1 ohm impedance, the amp won't be able to develop its full 75 watt power.
I guess that's my problem. Finding a 6 or 6 1/2" DVC 2 ohm sub? Except the Quadretec. I find the old kicker cvt but can't find them for sale anymore. Not even on eBay. I was going to try to get this 6 3/4" in the stock hold but it says it wants 150 watts. Might have to just get a sub and small mono amp to power it?
http://www.kicker.com/comp-rt-6-75-2-ohm-subwoofer
 
#10 ·
There is a new kicker sub that fits, 43CWRT672 in the stock location and wires as per stock wiring.. See from my install about 2 months ago below, I actually traced out the wires and no random connecting of black, white or grey etc. There is also some pictures in my 05 LJ Build Thread.

The 150watt means thats how much it will take, however our stock amp will provide 75watt and it sound perfectly fine with it. To be honest I hooked up the kicker listed below, stuffed some polyfill in the enclosure while it was open and it sounds wicked. Better than my stock sub (mine actually worked so I was able to compare stock vs. this) the reason I changed it out as the cone separated a few months ago.

Think I've answered my own question. Since the 43CWRT672 is a 2ohm Dual Voice Coil it gets wired the same way as the stock sub. No need to cut off/tape other wires. Since there was a lot of random guessing going on in some of these posts and no clear definition on what wire is what I went to test the old sub with a 9V battery and determined;

In order to find out exactly whats what take the 9V battery and touch the two tips on the sub and watch if the sub pushes AWAY or IN from the magnet. If it pushes out/away from magnet then you have polarity on battery matching polarity on the sub. If its pulls in then its flipped.

To then determine what wire is what if you look at the tabs on the wires themselves, 1 metal clip is bigger than the other so this helps you nail down which one goes over what post and eliminate if its positive or negative.

For my 05 LJ the 4 wires that were attached to the sub are;
Black - positive
Red - negative
White - positive
Brown - negative
Also have you looked at the Kicker website on wiring? It depends if you wire the sub in parallel or series. If you get the same sub I'm listing, its 2ohm - wire it in series and your AMP output is 1ohm which is what you want.
http://www.kicker.com/wiring-diagrams
 
#13 ·
Thanks. I pulled the center consol today. It's easy. My sub was dirty but surprisingly in good shape. I cleaned it up and poly filled the cabinet. What got me into it was it didn't work. When I pulled the stereo to put in a new Bluetooth one I found the blue wire had gone loose (it's a signal wire to the stock sub/amp). Fixed that blue wire and sub works.
I did install new 4" infinity 2way in the front though. I made 3" deep enclosures out of cardboard and duct tape and poly filled them for the 4" infinitys. I took pictures and will try to post them in another thread.
I'm going to poly fill the roll bar infinitys but I ordered a couple LED bulbs for the interior lights. The stock lights get real hot.
 
#21 ·
Got the new kicker sub today. I'm not sure if my JL Audio sub was OEM or not. I don't think it was but the cone was dry rotted and fell apart when I touched it

The old sub had a positive terminal on one side with a black and grey wire spade connector (two wires) and a negative terminal on the other side with a red wire and brown wire going to it. The new kicker has two voice coils with a positive and negative post of each side of the speaker. I rewired the new kicker with black to positive and brown to negative on one side and grey to positive and red to negative on the other voice coil. I think that is correct but not sure. It works and sounds good
The black and grey were wired on the positive side and the red and brown on the negative terminal of the old sub.
 

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