Q about CB antenna tail light mount.. - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-06-2004, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
Shinner
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Q about CB antenna tail light mount..

Ya'll,

Got one of those tail light mounts for my CB antenna (as shown here)

Was thinking of installing it today and was wondering if I need to somehow ground the plate to the body (which would require removing paint from both the plate and the tub where they meet). Is this necessary or will the hardware that holds the plate itselt make a sufficient ground? Sorta concerned about creating bare metal on the plate and tub due to rust.


His : 1992 YJ (Almighty 4 banger)
Hers: 2004 WJ Columbia Edition (4.7HO)

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post #2 of 10 Old 03-07-2004, 05:09 PM
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ground it

Yes, ya gotta ground the base of the ant mount

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post #3 of 10 Old 03-07-2004, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wb2jte
Yes, ya gotta ground the base of the ant mount
Do you mean the stud mount that the antenna attaches to?

This is the mounting stud I have



Everything to the left of the nylon washer (including the nylon washer) is mounted on top of the tail light plate. The part of the stud to the right of the nylon washer is below the tail light plate. At what point do I need to add the ground strap? The bottom part?

Don't have a pic of the install I did but can take one tomorrow if it would be helpful.

His : 1992 YJ (Almighty 4 banger)
Hers: 2004 WJ Columbia Edition (4.7HO)

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post #4 of 10 Old 03-07-2004, 11:05 PM
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I found that the bolts going into the body provide sufficient ground. Make sure to drill the hole to bolt it in higher up, or it will vibrate and bang against the body.

If you installed it already, just take it out and test it, if it works you did it right

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post #5 of 10 Old 03-08-2004, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shookwell
I found that the bolts going into the body provide sufficient ground. Make sure to drill the hole to bolt it in higher up, or it will vibrate and bang against the body.
Yeah, I did that...and used a heavier 5/16 bolt instead of the 1/4" supplied with the bracket. Only wobble I seem to have is due to the Firestik quick disconnect I have mounted between the stud and antenna itself.

Here's a closeup:




Quote:
Originally Posted by shookwell
If you installed it already, just take it out and test it, if it works you did it right
Not gotten that far...I wanted the coax run inside so I drilled another hole through the tail light cavity (very top right hand corner) and on through the mounting plate & tub. Just makes it above the wheel well. Need to run the coax along the tub edge, bought some sticky mounting tabs and tie wraps today but the weather has turned cold so I probably won't do it until the weather turns again. A garage, a garage, my kingdom for a garage.

His : 1992 YJ (Almighty 4 banger)
Hers: 2004 WJ Columbia Edition (4.7HO)

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post #6 of 10 Old 03-09-2004, 10:57 AM
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i was able to run the coax through the hole for the taillight wiring, without drilling any additional holes

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post #7 of 10 Old 03-09-2004, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shookwell
i was able to run the coax through the hole for the taillight wiring, without drilling any additional holes
That goes into the wheel well though, doesn't it? The taillight wires were pretty damn crusty when I took the assembly off the tub, didn't like the idea of the antenna coax ending up that way.

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Hers: 2004 WJ Columbia Edition (4.7HO)

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post #8 of 10 Old 03-10-2004, 07:46 AM
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Here I go again but delete this if you want...

Sometimes you can get a ground connection through the mounting bolts but not always; a bad ground can cause all kinds of little problems and trcing it to the mounting bolts can be time consuming.
A good ground is obtained ONLY with BARE METAL !
That means that where the bolt goes through the mount and on the inside of the jeep, where the nut/lock washer meet the body, needs to be bare metal.
OR, Drill a smaller hole in the mount, in the flat area where the antenna mounts; not too big, #10 as a max size. Run a wire to either the frame or even the body. Use RING Lugs and external tooth star Lock Washer, but where the lugs touch the frame/body/mount it has to be bare metal.

You might want to use a Non-Corrosive Conductive Paste (I use No-Ox; purchased in a local electrican's shop) on all of the connections. Get it between all of the component of the connect too.

The bare metal area can be as small as the ring lug or as big as you might want it but you need bare metal.

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post #9 of 10 Old 03-10-2004, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NnF
OR, Drill a smaller hole in the mount, in the flat area where the antenna mounts; not too big, #10 as a max size.
Ahh, there's already a hole there, I noticed it before. Though the paint would have to be sanded off. Looks about the size of a #10 screw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NnF
Run a wire to either the frame or even the body. Use RING Lugs and external tooth star Lock Washer, but where the lugs touch the frame/body/mount it has to be bare metal.
Right....company I work for uses nice braided wire for ground straps, wonder if I could con them out of a section

Quote:
Originally Posted by NnF
You might want to use a Non-Corrosive Conductive Paste (I use No-Ox; purchased in a local electrican's shop) on all of the connections. Get it between all of the component of the connect too.
Hmm.....I probablhy have some of that in my work van, we used to use it on terminals of industrial size batteries.

thanks for the tips...

His : 1992 YJ (Almighty 4 banger)
Hers: 2004 WJ Columbia Edition (4.7HO)

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post #10 of 10 Old 03-10-2004, 10:36 AM
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Quote "Right....company I work for uses nice braided wire for ground straps, wonder if I could con them out of a section " Quote

The braid is better because of the flexibility.

Later,

Scrambler82

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