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Unread 05-10-2004, 12:38 AM   #1
5150
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Places to mount an amp?

Where are some good locations to mount an amp? That are not visible to people. Under a seat, in the center console, under the dash, in the hood?Ohh this is a TJ btw.

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Unread 05-10-2004, 07:34 AM   #2
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I have the Bestop Insta-trunk, and mounted it on the underside of the top...completely out of sight, and no fear of it getting soaked in the rain...

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Unread 05-10-2004, 09:42 AM   #3
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I swapped out my tilt-fold seat risers for a set of 97 standard risers on the driver's side and put it there. Under the dash is excelent if they fit and you have the know-how. Under the rear seat is an easyone also with the security drawer. Not under the hood. Too much heat.
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If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 05-10-2004, 10:06 AM   #4
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I mount mine under the front passenger seat (not a water problem in mine). The model I have is a good fit, and it's out of the way, plus a mid point for install.

I just screwed it to the tub, normal screws, which has been enough of a deterent for theft, but if you're concerned, you could use a non-standard head on the screw to prevent theft (make it take too long to be worth it.
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Unread 05-10-2004, 10:10 AM   #5
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Hmmm. . . . Now I have to get an amp and see where it will fit.
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Unread 05-10-2004, 01:07 PM   #6
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my amop is huge...the only place i could put it was under the rear seat....except it gets hot uder there after an hour of bumpin....summer makes it worse
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Unread 05-10-2004, 01:19 PM   #7
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I only need a 300 watt amp. I want something that sounds good and is small. Any subjestions?
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Unread 05-10-2004, 01:35 PM   #8
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im using an alpinev12 5 channel....go alpine...they make an awesome amp
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Unread 05-10-2004, 02:04 PM   #9
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Actally, the Alpine MRD-M300 (last years model) is on a HUGE sale rightnow (cause the MRD-M301 is in...) It's like right around $200 and is 300W x1 @ 2 ohms. It's what I used for my under-driver's seat stuff jub cause it was the only amp of that power that would fit. (And most people here have seen my setup... If not... Lookie here.)

It's a great deal and a good amp. If your interested. I bought 2 more and a pair of 4-ohm JL 10W3v2-D4 for the wife's explorer the deal is so good... (Usually list @ $400 for that amp...)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 05-10-2004, 02:32 PM   #10
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But if I get 4 OHM speakers do i need a 4 OHM amp?
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Unread 05-11-2004, 08:41 AM   #11
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No, amps that are 2-ohm stable mean they can handle any load DOWN to 2-ohms. However, many 2-channel amps are only stable bridged to 4-ohms. So make sure what you have or want matches up.

You can run a 2-ohm stable amp at 4 ohms just fine, but not 1-ohm. (make sence now?) However, there is a penaly... Power is a result of the calculation of current and resistance. They are (for the sake of argument) static so you can only change them with the speaker. Your amp is X power and your current is what ever the amp needs so you can only change the resistance. However changing this changes the power too.. Sucks hu... Nah... really, it's simple...

Think of it this way... The common resistance rating for all MOBILE audio (home is different) is 4-ohms. Everything is rated off this scale. Most fill speakers are 4-ohms and most subs are, or come in, a 4-ohm version. Subs are also common in 2, 6, 8, and 12 ohm variations which are all deisned for specific reasons.. But 4-ohms is the 'standard'.

(this following statement isn't always true but often it is and it gives you an idea of 'why'):

Now say your amp is 150Wx1 @ 4 ohms but it's also 2-ohm stable. You could add a 150W, 4-ohm sub off of it OR you could wire two 150W 2 or 8 ohm subs off of it and they'd have the exact (or very close) power. If you wanted to run a DVC sub that was 150W/coil stable, use a 4-ohm DVC sub and wire it for 2-ohms. The 150Wx1@4ohms amp is a 300Wx1@2ohms (often...) RMS amp. You get more power out of the same amp due to the changing resistance. As long as the amp can handle the increase in duty, no problem.

Now if you get an amp that is 300Wx1@2ohms for that reason and then stick a 4-ohm load up to it, it's now only a 150Wx1...

That's about the simplest way I can explain it.. If you have an amp or a sub and want to know what amps or subs to look for, just ask. If your buying all new, just let me know the idea of what you want and I'll help you match up exact components. (Many subs, like JL, come in multiple versions (2, 4, 6, 8, and 12 ohm and 2, 4, 6 ohm DVC) so you can wire them up exactly how you want them.)

For those who are still a little lost on that fact: You can take two 4 ohm devices and show 2 ohms or 8 ohms (but not 4 ohms) at the wires just with changing the way that you wire them up. See section 38 for the basics on series/parallel wiring here.
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Sir G. Cal - 2k Sahara TJ

Living and loving on borrowed time. Life with Multiple Sclerosis. My MS/Life blog, Audio and Electronic write-ups, project how-tos, pictures, stories, and more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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