This may sound stupid, but can I use both + terminals on my Optima Red Top. Right now its pretty well overloaded with wires, between the winch, a million fogs, amp, and some other mumbo jumbo, all the wires piss me off. So, can I use the side terminals for my aftermarket junk so the top is clean, it sucks when you jump someone and you rip up a few wires.
Just another point for cleaning up a mess of a million wires for different things. You can get a distribution block that has one main in and several outs. Essentially, this will allow you to run one main power wire from the battery to the distro block, then from the block out to your individual accessories. Typically this works best with smaller accessories like lights or lower wattage stuff, but there are tons of different types of distro blocks with different amounts of available connections and even some that are fused (just in case ). Then all you would have to do is find a spot to mount the distro block and your set.
Just my .02...
~1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L I-6 ATX
Before buying the Block or terminal strip, look at everything you are going to be running. Add up the amperage draw and determine what size strip (blocks) you need.
Maybe two terminals strips (blocks) will work better than one. Don't run the Winch off of anything other than "direct from the battery" or "a terminal stud" run from the battery.
Of course you know the winch will be the LARGEST amperage draw of anything you wil have so try and keep it separate.
Also, if the total amperage draw for all of the accessories is on the high side, don't run them all together off of the side terminals.
If you didn't get anything from this post , all I am trying to say is THINK before doing any setup, remember once you have a fire or wire melt-down you will have problems on problems.
basically it's an electrical project box that i mounted to the frame rail. the heavy gage wire coming out the top is 4 ga battery cable running to the + terminal. the bolt head on the right is a lag bolt that i used as the pick up feeder for the indiviual fuses. I screwed it into a block of wood to keep it from grounding out against the mounting bolt (the other bolt head in the middle. I've since coated that head in liquid electrical tape to keep that from happening) and to give me a solid connection. the fuse holders there are glued to the bottom of the box and are good up to 25 amps. you could go with heavier ones if you needed. right now I'm powering two sets of 2x55W, a single 35W and my CD and CB radios off them. the nice thing about this setup is that it's expandable up to the size of your box and waterproof. the boxes come with a cover which I sealed with a dried bead of RTV around the edge and RTV around the wire where they enter the box (with grommets of course). it cost about the same to build this as the Painless auxilary fuse panels of the same size. even if you go that route you might want to add the box to make it waterproof. all day in the mud and water at Paragon and the inside of the box was totally clean and dry.
Hmmm, lets see here
5 X 55W= 275W
2 X 130W= 260W
2 X 80W= 160W
damn almost 700W in just lighting
I have a 800W amp for the stereo.
I plan to add rock lights at some piont
I guess thats really it, mostly lighhting.
Well lets see 700 W divided by 12 Volts equals almost 60 amps.
When you put those lights on, make sure nothing else is on, unless you have a 100-amp Alternator min and we haven't even turned on the 800W amp.
What I would do is use a Terminal Strip/Block for the lighting and one for all the other stuff.
Run the power to high amperage draw components, i.e. winch and amp, directly to the battery or a terminal stud and fuse accordingly.
By using the Terminal Strip(s) you will clean up the battery post clutter and the rewiring of the strip will allow you to label all of the wire (will help in future projects).
As sentinal02 stated (Nice Box) a control box or terminal box can be used also, depends on how far you want to go.
Terminal Strip(s) under the hood will do the same thing or in stead of using standard terminal strips you could use a fused terminal. This allows for a main-power wire in and a lot of smaller amperage draw components out of fused terminals (Like a standard fuse box).
How far you want to take it is up to you, I like the terminal strips with clear plastic covers but there again how far do YOU want to take it ?
Take your time, think about it, DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME !
Any questions just ask some one here will always have an answer.
I was just looking at the connectors you pic'd-out on your fist post, NICE, but all you do with them is straighten out the connector clutter, not the wire clutter at the battery.
Good info Nfn. As of now I am only using a 90 amp alternator, but I have a 136 in the garage waiting to go in. At that piont I'll be redoing the battery cables and trying to clean up my mess with aftermarket wiring. I'm not looking to spend a hole lot, just wanna give it a little cleaner look. Also what can I do with relays. I have 4 of them just kinda sitting next to my battery with a crap load of wires all over the place. Its such a mess.
they make relay bases that the relays will just plug into. I'd get another box, mount the bases inside and then collect all the wires to them in one loom, or two if they're going in different directions. then you just pop the cover off, plug the relays in and you're good to go. just like the stock PDC.