Need recommendation for Sub/Amp/Speaker - Page 5

ticconi · 02-04-2009, 06:43 PM

can someone help me design a downfiring box possibly? I really have no idea what i'm doing lol.

ticconi · 02-04-2009, 07:12 PM

ok i downloaded the manual and they have dimensions and net internal volume dimensions. It's for a square front firing box but i think if I just made some legs for it flipped it on it's face it should work fine? Am I missing something here? And do I have to double the 3/4" MDF where the speaker itself is cutout?

**SirGCal** · 02-04-2009, 07:45 PM

nooo. not for that sub.

RUNIT · 02-04-2009, 08:23 PM

Something like this would work. Pretty easy to build if you have the tools.

peeweeXJ · 02-04-2009, 08:34 PM

www.just4effect.com for ideas or to buy. Ron custom builds every box to the subs need. I am waiting on my box for my Alpine SWR1242D.

ticconi · 02-04-2009, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SirGCal

nooo. not for that sub.

can you elaborate? I like the design of that box on the previous post and I have all the tools (well my dad does but could borrow) and honestly would like to have a little project to do. How and the heck would I figure out the dimensions though?

ticconi · 02-04-2009, 09:06 PM

wait sirgcal did you mean no to doubling up on the mdf?

gily25 · 02-05-2009, 09:38 AM

3/4" mdf all around will be fine as an enclosure for that sub.

yamaguy01 · 02-05-2009, 09:46 AM

I am always hesitant on buying used speakers from people I don't know. Speakers usually don't last forever and if his amp died then he was probably pushing them hard and above the capability of the amp and it flatlined possibly causing damage to the sub. He may not even know it himself and then you buy it and get stuck with some junk. As far as headunits go, I have always loved Alpine but, their sound output leaves something to be desired when setting up a soud system. I always thought it was something else but recently I discovered it to be their head units. It seems the mids are not reproduced through the headunit and no matter what EQ or crossover I used it would not come out. My friend hooked his Kenwood into my system and WhaLa, there are the mids. Kenwood also has some really high end stereos, also you could check into Eclipse. I know for a fact the Alpine Type-R subs are very hard to beat, I have a 10 that has taken a beating and is still thumping hard. I hope I helped some, I have been through tons of stereo equipment in my life time.

Dave

ticconi · 02-05-2009, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yamaguy01

I am always hesitant on buying used speakers from people I don't know. Speakers usually don't last forever and if his amp died then he was probably pushing them hard and above the capability of the amp and it flatlined possibly causing damage to the sub. He may not even know it himself and then you buy it and get stuck with some junk. As far as headunits go, I have always loved Alpine but, their sound output leaves something to be desired when setting up a soud system. I always thought it was something else but recently I discovered it to be their head units. It seems the mids are not reproduced through the headunit and no matter what EQ or crossover I used it would not come out. My friend hooked his Kenwood into my system and WhaLa, there are the mids. Kenwood also has some really high end stereos, also you could check into Eclipse. I know for a fact the Alpine Type-R subs are very hard to beat, I have a 10 that has taken a beating and is still thumping hard. I hope I helped some, I have been through tons of stereo equipment in my life time.

Dave

yeah this is one of my close friends, we were just bsing at the bar and i told him i was putting in stereo and he was like hey i think i still have mine still. So if something doesn't work he will take them back I do hear what your saying though. As far as Alpine maybe something was wrong with your headunit because I have never heard anyone say a bad thing about them and I have only heard that Kenwoods were crap. I appreciate the input though.

ticconi · 02-05-2009, 11:53 AM

Oh yeah I also figured out how to make the box. I was going to make one with a similar shape like runit posted but i am going to screw it into the instatrunk. Very similar to the one's Quadratec sells for 3 million dollars lol. That way I can just make a recatangular box and don't have to worry about the angles of a slanted box. Just easier for me. I am going to make the Instatrunk first probably start that tonight. Then i'm going to start on the box that attaches to that. The whole thing is going to be secured with some L brackets that mount on the tub and instatrunk and im going to buy some wooden dowels for the bottom of the box to attach for some added support. I am aiming for 2.5" of clearance from the body to the sub. Should be fine. What do you guys think?

SmokEaterHD · 02-05-2009, 12:02 PM

I would suggest looking more into Kicker's line of speakers/subs/amps. You will get a lot more "bang" for your buck there. They also make a series of subs called CVT which is a slim model sub that still has a great sound. Makes it alot easier to fit in a small space. As for your ohms. Basically, you will want to match the sub ohm rating to whatever the amp ohm rating is. For instance, if you have a Kicker amp with a 2-ohm output then you want to have a sub wired in a configuration that will make it 2-ohm at the amp. This can be done several ways via the wiring configuration. If you have a sub that has a dual voice coil and each of those is 4-ohms you can wire them in parallel for a 2-ohm load at the amp. Kicker makes a great 3-channel amp that is perfect for Jeeps. It is a 08ZX550.3. It has two channels that are 85-watts each and then a sub channel that is 420-watts. You can put the two channels to your soundbar and then just run deck power to your 4X6's, but you may want to go with a headunit that has more then 45-watts per channel. Most of the headunits on the market are anywhere from 50-52 watts per channel. Not a huge difference really, but if you are just running deck power it might help. That is the configuration I did in my YJ and it sounds killer. I design stereo systems for boat manufacturers so if you have any other questions just send me a message.

ticconi · 02-05-2009, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokEaterHD

I would suggest looking more into Kicker's line of speakers/subs/amps. You will get a lot more "bang" for your buck there. They also make a series of subs called CVT which is a slim model sub that still has a great sound. Makes it alot easier to fit in a small space. As for your ohms. Basically, you will want to match the sub ohm rating to whatever the amp ohm rating is. For instance, if you have a Kicker amp with a 2-ohm output then you want to have a sub wired in a configuration that will make it 2-ohm at the amp. This can be done several ways via the wiring configuration. If you have a sub that has a dual voice coil and each of those is 4-ohms you can wire them in parallel for a 2-ohm load at the amp. Kicker makes a great 3-channel amp that is perfect for Jeeps. It is a 08ZX550.3. It has two channels that are 85-watts each and then a sub channel that is 420-watts. You can put the two channels to your soundbar and then just run deck power to your 4X6's, but you may want to go with a headunit that has more then 45-watts per channel. Most of the headunits on the market are anywhere from 50-52 watts per channel. Not a huge difference really, but if you are just running deck power it might help. That is the configuration I did in my YJ and it sounds killer. I design stereo systems for boat manufacturers so if you have any other questions just send me a message.

I'm sure kicker has good equipment and that amp looks nice but that amp is going to cost more than my whole Stereo!! If this was going in something with more security I would be spending a lot more money. If I were going for SQ over SPL I would be spending more money. My jeep is going to have the top down very often when I move to Florida so that being said even if I have an alarm if they want it they're gonna take. I have had 2 $1,000 systems stolen before. Let's say god forbide someone takes it i'm out $90. Sucks but nowhere near sucking as bad as someone stealing my $400 amp and $150 speaker. I appreciate your input though. Also your quoting a headunits max power not rms. As far as I was told RMS on almost all headunits is 16-22 and that's what you want to go by. I'm sure you system sounds great, it should you spent alot of money. But like I said before I want to spend most of my money on other areas of my ie. suspension, wheels, tires.....

spife7980 · 02-05-2009, 12:32 PM

just a regular sqaure or rectangle is fine. the only thing i would be woried about is how much space you have. like it the top of the box would fit in behind the rear seat. and thats really the only problem.

and sirG said no to not needing to double the mdf because that sub only weighs like 5 lbs. you only need to double baffle a box for big time stuff.

and like gily said just 3/4 mdf all around is prime.

ticconi · 02-05-2009, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spife7980

just a regular sqaure or rectangle is fine. the only thing i would be woried about is how much space you have. like it the top of the box would fit in behind the rear seat. and thats really the only problem.

and sirG said no to not needing to double the mdf because that sub only weighs like 5 lbs. you only need to double baffle a box for big time stuff.

and like gily said just 3/4 mdf all around is prime.

Yeah I was worried about that too but if they can fit a Kicker L5 then I should be able to fit my MTX 4500. http://www.quadratec.com/products/14136_332.htm