Kicker Stereo Solution -
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post #1 of 6 Old 11-27-2013, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Kicker Stereo Solution

Hello all! I figured I'd let everyone know of my stereo setup. I'm running 5.25 kicker cs speakers in the dash and sound pods. As for the console sub I replaced it with a kicker compRt 6 3/4" DVC 1 ohm subwoofer wired to a half ohm, it's pushed by the kicker px200.1 powersports amplifier which is a little bigger than a pack of cigarettes which I neatly mounted under the passenger airbag. As for the wiring i powered it off of a "spare" fuse location right there behind the glove box, grounded to dash and bought female/female or male/male rca connectors (i don't recall i can check tomorrow) and connected pigtails off of amp and deck so it has about 4" rcas which tuck away nicely. Just this alone is very impressive for a sub that small and it only sounds better the harder I push it which the px200.1 has no problem doing. The amp is water resistant and can be locked up with the glovebox. The sub took minimal modification to fit in the factory box which is actually in the specs for this sub, had to trim the fins in the bottom filled with polyfill and used a sticky ribbon tape (for sealing bolted in glass in an automotive setting) to raise and seal the sub. Also put dynamat in a few key areas on the outside and glued copper door bushings on the box where the 3 screws are that go around the sub/ under grill to give it room to flex and this is a must or it will be chewed up in 5 minutes. For the rear I did a kicker hideaway (8" powered enclosure) on the rear tailgate which can be undone with the Velcro mounting system if the top is off or it's going to rain. Ran the wiring for the "RCA" to the rear soundpods, and continued to drivers side which is where the power wire ended. Here I added a normal headphone extension and of course 12v extension and ran the bass boost dial into the console which fit like a glove. This stereo is loud! I love it and will not be changing anything it's perfect, takes up no room, no top no problem you will hear it. I had the kicker 2 ohm cvt sub with the factory amp and it was a joke in comparison. Open to questions and will get pictures up soon if anyone is interested.

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post #2 of 6 Old 11-27-2013, 09:24 PM
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Definitely show some pics. Is running an amp & sub at .5 Ohm okay? I'm not really up to speed on high powered systems, so I could be way off, but isn't running less than 2 Ohms reserved for short term play, and competition type environments?

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post #3 of 6 Old 12-09-2013, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah its stable at a .5 ohm load. Sorry it has taken so long to get pics up for those who care its been pretty busy at work/home. Check back in 8-10 hrs and ill get somethin up.
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post #4 of 6 Old 12-09-2013, 11:26 PM
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Can you please be a little more detailed on how you wired it to .5 ohms??? Thanks!
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post #5 of 6 Old 12-10-2013, 10:20 AM
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If you wire a 1 ohm DVC sub in parallel, the measured load to an amp will be .5 ohms. There are amps that run in that range but it puts a strain on them. The lower resistance (lower ohm load) will allow the amp to move more power through the sub, but also generates exponentially more heat within the amp.
I've seen factory diagrams of old Rockford Fosgate Punch Power series amps running 16 4-ohm subs all in parallel. Crazy, but they are designed to do it.
A rule of thumb is that every time you cut the load in half, you double the amp's output (although distortion increases). Most amps are stable at 4 ohms. Some two. Rarer are the amps that are 1ohm or lower.
One more note - if you "bridge" an amp's outputs (combining two channels into one by using a positive from one set of terminals and negative from the other set), you will cut the ohm load in half as well (again doubling the power). So two 4-ohm voice coils speakers wired in parallel and bridged on an amp, the measured load the amp sees will be 1 ohm. You cannot bridge a mono amp because there aren't two channels to combine.

All that being said, much of the heat also has to do with how hard you drive the amp/sub.

Also, when the load is measured, it is when the speaker is at rest. When the speaker is playing, the measures load continuously varies in conjunction with the music it is playing.
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post #6 of 6 Old 12-11-2013, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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