KC Lights on Windshield - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 09-05-2011, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
cbrevo
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KC Lights on Windshield

Hello,

Firtst time posting....
1998 TJ Sahara with factory wired Fog Lights that have been replaced with KC Slimlights.
Q : Is there any part of the "factory" system (wiring, switch, etc...) I can use when moving the lights up to the windshield. From the looks of things...the factory wiring for the lights is running through the Main Wiring Harnes...so I'm thinking that is too much work to try and remove it/trace it....but if I run new wring...do I still need a relay and can I run the wires to the "facotry" fog light switch. Any help would be great. Thanks !

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post #2 of 7 Old 09-05-2011, 03:58 PM
JPNinPA
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Welcome to the board.
First it will be a bit of work to use the factory wiring to wire lights on the windshield. So adding a new circuit will be easier and better as you could be sure to size the wiring for the load. For example the slim lights are usually 100 or 130W vs the factory fog lights at 55W. The factory wiring is for 55W load and may burn open over time if your slimlights are 100W or greater. If not the wiring then the multifunction switch on the column. So you might want to check the wattage on what you have.

Second if you are wiring any high current draw to operate with a switch, use a relay. The relay allows low power on the switch side and high on the load side. This will greatly reduce the losses and draw on the electrical system. And lessen the changes of things burning up.
Like relays use fuses on any new circuits. Keep the fuse closest to the battery and on the positive side. This will save batteries and other components should wiring short out for any reason.

If you are putting windshield lights on be sure to run the correct fuse, relay and wiring for the load. KC and other companies have wiring harnesses that work great and often are cheaper if bought with the lights as a set.

As for wiring them there is a thread or two on here showing how various people wired them in. If you want tehm on withthe high beams or with the fog lights you could tap into the existing wiring and control the new relay. But check with your state laws regarding lights above the hood an dauxillary lighting as some states have strict laws on what could be on when.

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post #3 of 7 Old 10-02-2011, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
cbrevo
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So are you saying that i should not run the new wires to the "factory" switch and the "factory" relay...??? That I should use a new switch and a new relay??? The factory switch is on the center dash area and would look original/nice and neat...and if I cannot use that one...where do I put the "other" switch??
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post #4 of 7 Old 10-02-2011, 11:19 AM
biffgnar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrevo View Post
So are you saying that i should not run the new wires to the "factory" switch and the "factory" relay...??? That I should use a new switch and a new relay??? The factory switch is on the center dash area and would look original/nice and neat...and if I cannot use that one...where do I put the "other" switch??
Use new relay and wiring for the high power side that are properly rated for the wattage of the lights. You can use the hot line from the stock wiring as the switch for the new relay.

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post #5 of 7 Old 10-02-2011, 11:20 AM
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Im not positive on the TJs dash layout, but I know on the YJ there are actually a few extra switch blanks in the dash for hard top controls (rear defrost and rear wiper) if yours didn't come with a hard top from the factory there may be pre existing cut outs you could use. Also a few companies sell add on switch panels designed specifically for TJs

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post #6 of 7 Old 10-02-2011, 08:08 PM
JPNinPA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrevo View Post
So are you saying that i should not run the new wires to the "factory" switch and the "factory" relay...??? That I should use a new switch and a new relay??? The factory switch is on the center dash area and would look original/nice and neat...and if I cannot use that one...where do I put the "other" switch??
You could use the factory switch to wire to the new relay. Later models TJ's have a multi function switch on the blinker that is an issue. I was a bit off. Your switch below the heater controls. could switch the relay on. You need a 40A relay for the and thicker gauge wiring than factory to run from the battery to relay and to lights. The wiring on the switch should be fine as it is low power.


EDIT: Just thought about this. If you are placing FOG lights or driving lights on the windshield you will get glare off the hood because FOG Or driving lights direct light down. Long range lights project more forward and less glare will occur.

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post #7 of 7 Old 10-03-2011, 10:03 PM
sjones26573
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Did the PO run them off the factory harness when on the bumper? If not, use the wiring the used before. If so, get a harness that can withstand the load. I believe KC sells harnesses for all their lights that you can buy separate. I ran the wiring for my windshield 130 w kcs through the corners of the panel that covers the wiper motor, under the hood hinges, and beside factory wiring along the firewall. I ran them off of the supplied relay and drilled into the firewall just to the right of the battery, screwed in the relay, and used the screw to ground the relay.
I bought rocker switches from OTRATTW.com and used the factory switch panel, although they are too big and stick out a little.

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