Interior Light By-Pass Switch Write-Up (PICS)! - Page 2

Combatsylvania · 10-20-2006, 07:56 AM

Quote:

When I yank the #4 fuse I keep leaving on the headlights

Like one of the guys posted above, if you put the switch as a door switch override you wont have this problem.. As it puts the switches in "door closed" mode.

Or, put the switch on the line that runs to the bulb itself. You could put the switch up in the sound bar if you wanted.

The J · 10-20-2006, 08:06 AM

Ok, it may be obvious and since I took electronics for 4 years I feel even worse for asking it.

When you twisted and crimped the wires together on the back of the fuse box, doesn' t that defeat the purpose of the fuse in the first place since there is no true circuit anymore. Both the ground and power wire are tired together on the incoming side and then both the input to the fuse and the output to the fuse are tied together. The switch is acting as a bridge to the fuse...it would seam as though power would still be running to the switches even with the switch turned "off".

Now granted, you tried it and it's working...that's the thing that is confusing me.

Did any of that make any sense? The crimp point on the "Green" arrow should be acting like a wire nut and allow current to still flow, even when the switch is "off".

Bah, now I'm starting to doubt my electronics class and realize that Jeeps defy the laws of electricty.

kaybone · 10-20-2006, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The J

Ok, it may be obvious and since I took electronics for 4 years I feel even worse for asking it.

When you twisted and crimped the wires together on the back of the fuse box, doesn' t that defeat the purpose of the fuse in the first place since there is no true circuit anymore. Both the ground and power wire are tired together on the incoming side and then both the input to the fuse and the output to the fuse are tied together. The switch is acting as a bridge to the fuse...it would seam as though power would still be running to the switches even with the switch turned "off".

Now granted, you tried it and it's working...that's the thing that is confusing me.

Did any of that make any sense? The crimp point on the "Green" arrow should be acting like a wire nut and allow current to still flow, even when the switch is "off".

Bah, now I'm starting to doubt my electronics class and realize that Jeeps defy the laws of electricty.

I agree with "The J". Your write-up is very nicely done, but from what I could understand after reading it, is it looks like you by-passed the function of your fuse, so that when the switch is thrown its like a hard wire across the fuse. You could solve this by adding an in-line fuse to one of your lead wires to your switch.
It might save you from any electrical problems, or worse fire.

Chris_Ryan · 10-20-2006, 08:42 AM

Edit: I am wrong... I appologize. I swa 2 wires hooked up to the butt connector and thought he hooked the yellow/black and the black together...

Without varifying this myself, it does look safe... It appears he cut the wires on the output side of the fuse...

When I did mine, I just took male disconnects and put them in the place of the fuse and installed my own 10 amp fuse inline with the hot side.

I used a relay because the switch I used was very small (rated less than 10 amps....) It was a switch from a remote start...

YJ-Mike · 10-20-2006, 08:46 AM

I could be wrong but I don't think he bypassed the fuse. He spliced a switch into one side of the fuse (yellow w/black), but he left the wires on the other side of the fuse (black wires that he said he didn't touch). So his circuit comes from the power supply (which I think is yellow/black) through the switch that he added, through the fuse, out to the door switches and to ground to complete the circuit. There are two wires on each side of the fuse since there are two door switches.

The J · 10-20-2006, 08:57 AM

Ok, I went back and re-read what he said. He did leave the ground side of the circuit alone.

wrnglrguy · 10-20-2006, 09:08 AM

I guess I am retarded, or maybe because I just woke up, but, why would anyone go through this trouble when you can just pull the #4 fuse and get the same oucome?

Chris_Ryan · 10-20-2006, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrnglrguy

I guess I am retarded, or maybe because I just woke up, but, why would anyone go through this trouble when you can just pull the #4 fuse and get the same oucome?

My Glove box is full and I got sick of everything falling out when I went to pull the fuse... plus I was an installer, so all the supplies were scrap / freebies...

Combatsylvania · 10-20-2006, 09:13 AM

Quote:

I guess I am retarded, or maybe because I just woke up, but, why would anyone go through this trouble when you can just pull the #4 fuse and get the same oucome?

It is a pain, constantly pulling that fuse, I would mount a witch in a heart beat..

on a side note, you can buy empty fuses with leads coming off them, I think they call it a bypass fuse.. You could run an inline fuse with one of thse and attach a switch. Would make install a no brainer.

RLD831 · 10-20-2006, 09:51 AM

I took out the fuse when I learned it was there and never put it back.

kaybone · 10-20-2006, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The J

Ok, I went back and re-read what he said. He did leave the ground side of the circuit alone.

So, that being said, it keeps the stock fuse that's still in place still functional? Correct?

ROUGHSHOD · 10-20-2006, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Combatsylvania

I would mount a witch in a heart beat..

Dude, I get those cravings every year right around this time

**Steelman** · 10-20-2006, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROUGHSHOD

Dude, I get those cravings every year right around this time

You beat me to it!

(Though I think what you said was better than what I may have come up with!

)

Combatsylvania · 10-20-2006, 10:45 AM

lol, nice...

C2U5H · 10-20-2006, 01:59 PM

The fuse is not defeated at all.

The two wires going into slot #4 are the wires coming from each door. One is for the right door switch, the other is for the left door switch... they just use the same fuse.

The switch is IN-line with the power wires, so the fuse is still functional.. it just won't save the switch because the switch enters the circuit BEFORE the fuse does.

The ground wires are the black wires coming out one slot next to the yellow/black ones.

Hope this clears it up.

~J

10-20-2006, 08:46 AM	#20
YJ-Mike Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 643 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	I could be wrong but I don't think he bypassed the fuse. He spliced a switch into one side of the fuse (yellow w/black), but he left the wires on the other side of the fuse (black wires that he said he didn't touch). So his circuit comes from the power supply (which I think is yellow/black) through the switch that he added, through the fuse, out to the door switches and to ground to complete the circuit. There are two wires on each side of the fuse since there are two door switches. __________________ Mike 2006 TJ X (Stock - w/ Borla Cat-Back Exhaust) Built a YJ from the ground up: - '04 4.0L (4,000 miles), NV3550 (0 miles), NP231 w/ HD SYE (9,000 miles), 33x12.50x15 Pro-Comp AT's, HP D30/8.8 (4.56 gears), ARB Lockers front and rear w/ compressor, hard/soft tops, full/half doors. -----> Build thread can be read here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/yj-build-plan-259306/ Last edited by YJ-Mike; 10-20-2006 at 02:01 PM..

10-20-2006, 10:45 AM	#29
Combatsylvania Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Elmvale, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,850 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	lol, nice...