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Unread 06-03-2010, 02:27 PM   #121
cheech66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength View Post
Question about amps with this swap... If you upgrade to the 2 ohm Kicker, will it have more or less "kick" than the factory sub? Also, If you added a small aftermarket 150w RMS amp how much more "kick" would the sub have and would it be worth buying the aftermarket amp instead of using the factory one?
i put in the kicker big diff as for the amp it comes down too $ if its not a big deal than why not (I did not know kicker had one) as far as the enclosure it is what it is but I like the stock setup and not wastin space in the back, with that being said the kicker sub was well worth the couple extra $ over the pyramid sub just my 2 cents!!!

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Unread 06-03-2010, 02:30 PM   #122
Filthy-Beast
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I put in the Bazooka to replace a working factory sub and yes it's a night and day improvement.
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Unread 06-03-2010, 02:39 PM   #123
sparkeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength View Post
So is it worth the $60 to replace the sub? My sub works fine I just want a better one... and is it really worth the effort then to get a 4 ohm Kicker and matching amp or is the box so crappy that it won't matter...
Another reason to upgrade might be weather-ability. If you drive around with your top down often, the stock sub WILL fail. It is inevitable because of the poor construction materials (paper and foam). It is a toss up as to upgrade before it fails or not. If you are going to remove the console for something else, then upgrade at the same time. Otherwise, might as well let it fail.

As far as improved performance, these aren't really well spent money.
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Unread 06-09-2010, 11:46 PM   #124
KaptinNemo
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Where do I get the parts to do this, I have a 2004 rubicon and i want a sub, the stock one will suffice. But I don't know if I need a new console or what can somone help me?
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Unread 06-10-2010, 01:27 AM   #125
ArcherAce
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The link in the op still works.
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Unread 06-10-2010, 08:36 AM   #126
KaptinNemo
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What's the op? I just want to know where I can get the console suited for the amp and how much the wiring is tobrun under the shift coloumn.
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Unread 06-10-2010, 09:54 AM   #127
gily25
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OP= original poster

I would be surprised if a rubicon came without the factory sub unless you are the first owner and you ordered it that way. Does your center console have the black cd tray when you lift hte lid or a big white bucket that goes to the floor? If you have the blackcd tray you probably have the sub. Put the drivers seat up like you're climbing in back and look through the slats in the side of the console...do you see a piece of black grill cloth? If so your sub may be blown or not connected properly. If you want to buy an enclosure check your dealership, wyckoff jeeps in the vendeor section of the forum or jeepsareus.com...you can usually find one used on ebay but it may be in questionable condition.
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Unread 06-10-2010, 07:31 PM   #128
KaptinNemo
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it has the white tub that goes to the floor, and the black cloth over the grille on driver side by the seat. I have looked under it and it had no sub, I was wondering do I need a new console or will the sub work in there?
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Unread 06-22-2010, 10:37 PM   #129
srlbotanical
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I thought my sub was blown but the other day it starts working for a few seconds at a time. I ordered the piramid replacment but no combination of wires works. I've traced wires looking for a loose connection with no luck... whats next?
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Unread 07-07-2010, 09:37 AM   #130
rkeough
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Well, the truly great posts just will not die. Again, thanks to the OP. I installed the Pyramid about a month ago. Worked fine until recently when I started getting distortion. Thought I had blown it, but when I took it back apart I discovered it was intact, though the two wires running to the speaker cone were impacting the cone itself and the coil below - which was the source of the distortion. Also - as I began tinkering with it I discovered what appears to be a short in one of the wires....so it cuts out intermittently. So I'm back to the drawing board. I guess I just got a dud Pyramid speaker. I'm chalking this one up to manufacturer's defect. So now I'm thinking I need to search for a 6.5" 2-ohm Kicker. There are a few available from retailers on the web. But a little more money. And since the Pyramid was a 4-ohm, maybe the 2-ohm will perform better anyway? Any advice?
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Unread 07-07-2010, 01:11 PM   #131
cheech66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkeough View Post
Well, the truly great posts just will not die. Again, thanks to the OP. I installed the Pyramid about a month ago. Worked fine until recently when I started getting distortion. Thought I had blown it, but when I took it back apart I discovered it was intact, though the two wires running to the speaker cone were impacting the cone itself and the coil below - which was the source of the distortion. Also - as I began tinkering with it I discovered what appears to be a short in one of the wires....so it cuts out intermittently. So I'm back to the drawing board. I guess I just got a dud Pyramid speaker. I'm chalking this one up to manufacturer's defect. So now I'm thinking I need to search for a 6.5" 2-ohm Kicker. There are a few available from retailers on the web. But a little more money. And since the Pyramid was a 4-ohm, maybe the 2-ohm will perform better anyway? Any advice?
I went with this: KICKER 2010 10 CVT65 6.5" CAR SUBWOOFER 2-OHM COMPVT - eBay (item 400134221701 end time Aug-04-10 11:52:27 PDT)

off ebay after lots of lookin around no one could beat it and I love the sound still!!! GL
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Unread 07-07-2010, 11:09 PM   #132
rkeough
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Cheech - did you connect it to the factory amp in the console or did you install with an aftermarket amp? Also: The Kicker CVT65 looks like it has jack connections. How did you connect the factory wiring to the sub? Am I going to have to solder connectors to the factory wire?
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Unread 07-08-2010, 12:02 PM   #133
cheech66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkeough View Post
Cheech - did you connect it to the factory amp in the console or did you install with an aftermarket amp? Also: The Kicker CVT65 looks like it has jack connections. How did you connect the factory wiring to the sub? Am I going to have to solder connectors to the factory wire?
look back one page you will see what i did and no you do not have to solder pulls up as i remember and slides in red and black worked best for me!!!
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Unread 07-13-2010, 07:51 PM   #134
Tunnelworm2001
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So I've managed to pull the sub with no problem but still confused on the wiring portion. The stock sub has 4 terminals and 4 wires, Brown/Gray & Red/Black. My new Pyramid 4 Ohm 300 wt sub (PW677X) has only 3 terminals? Is the reccomeandation to go Brown + Gray -, and if so which remaining wire (red/black) goes to the oddball 3rd terminal on the opposite side. Hate to beat a dead horse here but would really appreciate feedback here. I'd hate to burn up my $13 investment :-)
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Unread 07-21-2010, 10:54 PM   #135
Miterman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunnelworm2001 View Post
So I've managed to pull the sub with no problem but still confused on the wiring portion. The stock sub has 4 terminals and 4 wires, Brown/Gray & Red/Black. My new Pyramid 4 Ohm 300 wt sub (PW677X) has only 3 terminals? Is the reccomeandation to go Brown + Gray -, and if so which remaining wire (red/black) goes to the oddball 3rd terminal on the opposite side. Hate to beat a dead horse here but would really appreciate feedback here. I'd hate to burn up my $13 investment :-)
Just thought I would let everyone know that this thread was very helpful to me. I actually found that a battery test worked well to determine the correct wiring. As you pull the wires off the old sub write what the color was under the connectors (on the magnet with a sharpie worked for me). Tie a lead of wire to each of the connectors on the oem sub and then contact them to a small battery. I used a AAA. If you have correct phase then the speaker will jump out, while if you are incorrect the cone will suck in. Positive terminal on the battery equals positive terminal on the speaker. On mine both of the larger terminals were positive... this is probably always the case.

BTW, I got the shallow mount Kicker sub, the black one 2ohm. Much better than stock, quite impressive really. Almost seems like a little too much for me. I just hope that crappy plastic holds the screws.
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