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Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Electrical, Audio, GPS, & 2-Way Radio > How To Replace The Factory Subwoofer

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Unread 09-03-2009, 02:52 PM   #61
stinchcomb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gily25 View Post
It has less thump because the wattage has changed. The factory subwoofer runs the factory amp at 1 ohm and takes the most advantage of the amp. When you switch to an aftermarket sub running the amp at 4 ohms you have decreased your power by 2/3.
This is all above my understanding level, but sort of makes sense. I understand amps, volts, and watts, but get lost when it comes to ohms. Sound systems have always baffled me. After a week of the install, I'm not impressed with the sound. I'm getting some bass, but can't say it's much better than before with none.

I miss the way the factory sub sounded. I spent less than $20 dollars on this experiment, so I'm not out much and didn't cut any wires. I think I'll be doing some more research into this to find the less expensive way to get my true bass back.

I installed a new head unit about 3 months ago and all was great, but I noticed a few weeks ago, I didnít have any bass. I assumed the speaker was blown, but not so sure of that anymore after this experiment. Iím wondering if the amp may be going bad or gone bad. There is a signal getting to the speaker because it moves and the correct power is being sent to the amp, but maybe the amp just isnít producing. HMMMÖ.any ideas out there? Any aftermarket replacement amps and wiring ideas? I really donít want to fork out the money for a factory replacement if the new head unit caused the original amp to go bad.

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Unread 09-04-2009, 09:54 AM   #62
gily25
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You connected the remote wire correctly? If you have an you're certain you wired it up right then it is probably the lack of power due to the ohm load on the amp changing.

If you search around for a small inexpensive low powered amp you can connect it to the sub (try a mitzu motorcycle amp, find them on ebay for like $20). When I originally did my sub install with the elemental designs 7" (which btw is the only sub to run the amp at its 1 ohm max) I still wasn't happy with the lack of bass. I had to mod the oem enclosure to get the sub in and add a grill to compensate for excursion. I added a cheap pyle marine amp and put it under my driver's seat. Only THEN did I get what I wanted out of the little sub. I quickly outgrew that and went for a bigger system but I'm glad I did the cheap amp first. Also the pyle was fairly low powered so I ran it off the factory amp wiring without an issue.
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Unread 09-04-2009, 10:53 AM   #63
stinchcomb
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Yes, the remote is hooked up correctly, first thing I checked, but not to say something didn't get knocked loose and power isn't reaching the amp. I should check all that first. The small cheap amp mybe my next step. If I had endless money supply, I'd go all out on the stereo, but I prefer to spend my money on the more fun and important accessories and nickle and dime myself to death with the stereo....go figure.

Thanks for the tips.
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Unread 09-04-2009, 11:34 PM   #64
bigandrich44
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Whats the biggest sub I could fit in a TJ without a box, using the factory location?
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Unread 09-05-2009, 05:21 AM   #65
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None, you have to have a box... Converting the stock box however, single 8" with fairly heavy modifications and reinforcements.
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If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 09-05-2009, 07:18 AM   #66
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ouch. so maybe a 6.5?
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Unread 09-05-2009, 07:38 AM   #67
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That is the stock size, some 8" cn be done with mild mod but with any upgrade, you'll want to reinforce that plastic can to avoid resonance and ping...
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If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 10-15-2009, 10:44 PM   #68
funkerjunkie
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just upgraded mine today since my stock sub blew about 2 months ago and was sick of the plain sounding music. thanks for the guide. was very helpful altho there is an error. i installed using what you said about Grey +/ Black -. hooked everything back up and it didn't work. so i looked over your guide again and went to your linked source for the sub idea from GCJoe and he said Grey +/ BROWN -. Which actually worked. But im a little baffled because some people had said they successfully installed the sub and it worked with no problems. so perhaps it work's both ways??? i don't know. But GCJoe's wiring worked for me. Anyways just putting this out there incase anybody runs into problems.

As for the Sub it doesn't sound any better or worse then the stock sub. I don't know how some of you are disapointed. It sounds practically the same imo. I can't tell the difference. Pretty good value for just a few dollars and a good 1-2 hours of your time.

Altho i did spend an extra $10 to go buy a Torx bit. Anyways thanks for all the help

ohhhh also... what would happen if you added the extra 2 wires as they were on the stock sub to the new sub? im confused why they are not needed anymore with the new sub???

pics:
http://i33.tinypic.com/2dkfequ.jpg
http://i33.tinypic.com/2m6swux.jpg
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Unread 11-08-2009, 11:48 AM   #69
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I have a 2005 and just got my pyramid. kinda confused on the wiring.

1. my pyramid has 2 posts for each side so red and gray on one and black and brown on the other?
2. what is the talk of taping up unused wires? all of my wires go into the box and the rest to the wiring harness which connects on the floor. what unused wires to I have? Do i need to cut/tape them? can i just do part 1 above and then leave everything else together?
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Unread 11-23-2009, 07:34 AM   #70
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I don't remember the color hook up for my 05 TJ and the pyramid, but I got it off this discussion. Read back a few pages and you'll find it.

Three months later and my pyramid is still going strong. As stated before, I won't win any audio contests, but it suits me fine.
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Unread 12-10-2009, 07:20 PM   #71
Tllamb2
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I bought a 6.5" Kicker 2 ohm subwoofer on ebay for $60.00/free shipping and installed it today. You only use 2 out of the 4 wires that are on the back of the factory subwoofer... the gray wire goes to the + and the brown wire goes to the -. As for the red and black wires just trim them so no wire is showing and put a small amount of tape on the ends of each. This should make your subwoofer work.
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Unread 12-14-2009, 07:47 AM   #72
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Two Comments

(1) I have a 2002 TJ which required a small additional step (and maybe I just missed it from the previous post). My jeep had two phillips screws inside the top hatch of the center console that need to be taken out in order to allow the subwoofer enclosure to come out.

(2) I agree with a few of the posts above regarding the sound. The speaker does sound good but definitely doesn't get enough power. You definitely don't get the same volume from the replacement speaker, but of course the volume is what caused us all to be on here replacing our factory subs. All and all a good replacement that likely has a longer shelf life than the factory speaker, but if you want BIG volume you likely need to upgrade.

I'm going to keep the setup because it fills in the bass as needed but you may need to turn the bass up.

Thanks for all the posts. Very good write up.
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Unread 12-23-2009, 09:32 AM   #73
bleachedrock
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Hi Guys, I have a 2002 Apex edition Wrangler. It's factory sub was blown by my wife rocking some Brittney Spears or other such lameness... Anyway, somewhere I found a link for this Bazooka 6.5 inch, 2 Ohm DVC sub

I have not put it in yet so I can't say if it's any good yet. I'm hoping that it's a bit better then the factory sub being a "bazooka". I suspect it will behave better the 4 Ohm speakers just because it can utilize the factory amp better. On paper, it appears to be the closest thing to a direct replacement for the factory speaker.

I'll give an update once I have the thing installed. Hopefully I'll have the time tomorrow, Christmas eve.
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Unread 12-23-2009, 06:27 PM   #74
wl07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcherAce View Post
This half moon shaped do-hickey is what prevents your new speaker from sitting flush with the enclosure. Use a grinder, dremel, sandpaper, etc... to remove enough of it to allow your new sub to sit flush against the enclosure.


I used GCJoes suggestion for wiring the sub, and hooked up grey + and black -. Also, notice in the above picture that I taped up the unused wires and then taped them to the harness.

Then, set the new sub in the enclose and center it between the old speaker mounting holes. Use a 3/32 drill bit, gently drill a new hole to mount the speaker. CAREFULLY install the one sub mounting screw. Continue to drill and install the other three screws. Remember this is plastic. All you need to do is install them hand tight. Any more and you'll strip the plastic. Also, notice how I'm holding my finger against the screw in case the Apex should slip. Don't want to accidentally punch a hole in the new sub!


New sub in, wires routed.


Slip the enclosure back into the console. Line up the plastic bolts that the push nuts go on. Find a small deepwell socket that is large enough to slip over the plastic bolt, but is smaller than the push nut. Set the push nut on the plastic bolt, and with the socket, push the nut down onto the plastic bolt. Hence the name, push nut.


Lay the console on it's side and reinstall the three screws by the speaker.


Reconnect the electrical husk, being sure to snap the red lock into place if your husk is so equipped. Reinstall the bolts in both cupholders, along with the rubber liners.


You're done!

Enjoy the mediocre, but cheap new sub.
are you saying you only hooked up the black and grey wire or were the only 2 that were different from the original hookup?
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Unread 12-23-2009, 06:41 PM   #75
wl07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tllamb2 View Post
I bought a 6.5" Kicker 2 ohm subwoofer on ebay for $60.00/free shipping and installed it today. You only use 2 out of the 4 wires that are on the back of the factory subwoofer... the gray wire goes to the + and the brown wire goes to the -. As for the red and black wires just trim them so no wire is showing and put a small amount of tape on the ends of each. This should make your subwoofer work.
how does the kicker sound, i just bought it along with some 5.25 kenwoods for the front. i also have kenwoods in the soundbar and a kenwood deck.
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